chelle

This peanut gallery member votes for Ballard, but I would go to Everett again if people wanted to... since we had pub club in Seattle last week.

Interesting, Dru. According to my friend in the Seattle Mtn. Rescue it does happen here. At any point in time there are about 100 people classified as "missing" on Rainier. Bits of them have been spit out by the glacier, but couldn't be identified. I think Beck was involved in a search effort on Adams a few weeks back to try and locate the bodies of some climbers from the 60's who were lost.

I use one of the Petzl helmets. It is lightweight and more comfortable in my experience than the other models. I got hit on the top of my head with a baseball size rock on Shuksan earlier this year and the helmet did it's job. It does suck that it needs to be replaced, and I'll probably buy a plastic heavy one. The rock that hit me only put a small dent in the helmet and I have used it on other climbs since. Balancing the replacement cost with whether it still offers reasonable protection... Bronco - if the Petzl get's so damaged on the 2nd pitch that it shatters and can't offer protection on the other 18 pitches, the climber's probably suffering from a lot more than disappointment that he needs a new helmet.

Thanks for posting the directions link Holly. I can't wait to hear about your Yosemite trip. We'll be starting around 6:30 pm.

As a member of the opposite sex I can assure you that a lot of chicks will think you're smart to wear a helmet. And intact brains will score higher than the lack of helmet head. In case you were wondering... [This message has been edited by ehmmic (edited 10-02-2001).]

Erikn - You're welcome from all of us. Even though he won't take any credit, Beck deserves it all. It was great climbing on Careno Crags with you, MattP, Jerry, David Parker, and Chris_W on Sat. And Matt, Scary Canary on Castle Rock was a treat yesterday. Thanks for the climbs. It was fun playing with you this weekend. See ya'll next year...if not before at a pub club. Michelle p.s. Next pub club will be tomorrow at The Blue Star in Wallingford (46th and Stone) 6:30 pm. [This message has been edited by ehmmic (edited 10-01-2001).]

Unless someone objects, the next pub club will be Tuesday night Oct 2nd at the Blue Star pub in Wallingford. Another non-smoking venue, sorry Cavey. 46th and Stone Way. They have good food and about 20 microbrews on tap. There is ample parking across the street near the McDonalds. See you there after 6:30 pm.

Thanks to Beck's vision and commitment to getting this crowd together in person the mega fest/rope up is just around the corner. It's going to be a great party! Here is a list of the cc'ers who have pledged to contribute to our event this weekend. Please confirm via this post or private message that you are still coming and will be bringing the stuff. There are some duplicate pledges. To simplfy things please bring what you've said you can and if we don't use it you'll have extra supplies to take back home. NOTE: My access to the Internet is sporadic at best right now (damned viruses and firewall hangups). I will make a daily field trip to the library if needed between today and Thursday to follow up on this post. If I don't get back to you right away, this is why. willstrickland - old 60m rope, coleman 2-burner stove and musical entertainment hikerwa - generator, large water containers, and 10x10 self standing tent rafaelh - garbage bags, tp, paper towels, and a small amount of plates and some bottled beer chris_w - garbage bags, tp, paper towles, and one old rope mattp - six old ropes, a six ft table and possibly a digital camera to document his rope tricks for posterity haireball - a 2 burner coleman and lantern, tarps, and musical entertainment erik - a slack line climbing4fun - a slide projector (bring some slides to share too if you can and any extra trays in case others bring slides), and musical entertainment mikereddig - a rope or two, beer, a stove, meat for a BBQ david parker - musical entertainment dr. jay - coleman stoves, lanterns, tiki torches, coffee arsenal two-flats-fer-sure - a bucket of skip and go naked (hhm if we combine this with mattp's contribution this could be interesting...) dynamite - a voice to compliment the musical talents of willstickland, haireball, and David Parket erikn - a tarp, folding table, and some coffee supplies cpt.caveman - the famed drinking funnel rstewbone - his chef skills and supplies, (do you have griddles too?) lisa - pancake mix and coffee moonchild - not sure what you are bringing. Let me know. See you all there!! Michelle [This message has been edited by ehmmic (edited 09-26-2001).]

Is the show at the Seattle REI?

Sat: South Early Winter Spire - South Arete Sun: Guye Peak - South Rib Fun, fun, fun!

I used to climb in an Isis and loved it. I needed adjustable leg loops and bought a unisex metolius which is ok for glacier travel, but a little too big in the waist for rock climbing. I just bought a Trango Ascent harness off the mountainwoman.com hotsheet for $30 and find it to be really comfy. Not sure what size you need but they have XS and S.

I think the Captain would like to host a pub club out on Mercer Island. Propose the time, place, and date and the rest of us will show up.

Anyone up for a Seattle pub club tonight? Some of us can't make the Bellingham one this Friday.

We climbed Forbidden Peak via the East Ridge Direct route last weekend. This is a great climb that should get more attention than it does. The climbing ranger we talked to said only 10% of the attempts are made via the East Ridge. The approach was straightforward. There is still snow in the gully that required us to wear crampons. We didn't feel the need to rope up here. Then it was a scramble on loose scree and slab to the gendarme. The climbing was good, mostly 5.7 with a fun 5.8 pitch. We did more pitches (two additional short ones) than the Potterfield book shows. There is a good bit of rope drag on some sections with all the ups and downs. The descent was 5 rapells down the north side using our 60m rope. We followed the ledges back to the gendarme. Based on a recommendation we stayed higher than the book recommends to avoid the dirty gully. We ended up a little high and had to rap off the first spire and down climb for about 50-60 feet. We did the trip in two days, but I'd recommend three. Hiking out in the dark then driving back to Seattle made for a long day.

Honestly I don't remember that pitch being that hard. I didn't lead it though, so perhaps that made a difference in my memory. Let me think about it some more. 8/31 Philfort - Thought about it, looked a the topo and pics. I still don't remember this pitch being too difficult. I vaguely remember taking the path that robertm describes. It was a long day. And we did that pitch just before a lunch break. I was more focused on getting through it so I could stop to eat. Sorry. [This message has been edited by ehmmic (edited 08-31-2001).]

If you can get a permit for Boston Basin check out the East Ridge Direct route of Forbidden Peak. I did it last weekend and it was really enjoyable. It allowed me to not think of work for the two days we were out and several long stretches since we got back. One small snow gully and some loose 3rd and 4th class stuff on the approach. You will need crampons and an axe for the snow. It's solid, but we didn't need to rope up for it. The climbing was mostly 5.7 with a great 5.8 crux pitch before the 5.2 summit ramp. Enjoy! [This message has been edited by ehmmic (edited 08-29-2001).]

Happy to report that we had another great gathering of the pub club last night. We initiated another couple of new faces. Mark Young and Dave Parker, glad you could make it. Tall tales were told and many brews were savored... Hey Sean, for those of us that can't make the Bellingham bash next Friday are you willing to host a gathering at the Alki pub you mentioned? I recall something about $2.50 pints of microbrew on Tuesday nights... Let us know. Michelle

Thanks Beck for taking the lead and keeping us organized. Eddie I'll take you up on a ride back to Ballard afterwards. Cheers. Michelle

I climbed Forbidden via the East Ridge Direct route. A very nice climb. It was my first big alpine climb and now I'm completely hooked. Woo Hoo!

Are you approaching the climb from Boston Basin or Sahale Arm? If you're in the Basin stop by the lower camp on the moraine and say hello. We'll be there tomorrow and after the climb on Saturday.

I'd be happy to check it out and report back.

Thanks for the info. I'm sure it'll be great.

I'm planning a trip to Forbidden this weekend and plan to do the East Ridge route. Anyone been out there lately or have info on the current approach conditions?

I haven't been back there this season, but climbed it last year. It's a really beautiful climb. No one else was out there but our party. Not sure what your plan is but I suggest 3 days minimum or really light packs. It's a long approach. Good luck and enjoy!

Beck - perhaps I haven't found the "right" wool to wear. I wouldn't go back to what was in my closet. Fill me in. But then I'd just have to save more money to ditch my Mountain Hardware power fleece shirt... Michelle