chelle

Is the show at the Seattle REI?

Sat: South Early Winter Spire - South Arete Sun: Guye Peak - South Rib Fun, fun, fun!

I used to climb in an Isis and loved it. I needed adjustable leg loops and bought a unisex metolius which is ok for glacier travel, but a little too big in the waist for rock climbing. I just bought a Trango Ascent harness off the mountainwoman.com hotsheet for $30 and find it to be really comfy. Not sure what size you need but they have XS and S.

I think the Captain would like to host a pub club out on Mercer Island. Propose the time, place, and date and the rest of us will show up.

Anyone up for a Seattle pub club tonight? Some of us can't make the Bellingham one this Friday.

We climbed Forbidden Peak via the East Ridge Direct route last weekend. This is a great climb that should get more attention than it does. The climbing ranger we talked to said only 10% of the attempts are made via the East Ridge. The approach was straightforward. There is still snow in the gully that required us to wear crampons. We didn't feel the need to rope up here. Then it was a scramble on loose scree and slab to the gendarme. The climbing was good, mostly 5.7 with a fun 5.8 pitch. We did more pitches (two additional short ones) than the Potterfield book shows. There is a good bit of rope drag on some sections with all the ups and downs. The descent was 5 rapells down the north side using our 60m rope. We followed the ledges back to the gendarme. Based on a recommendation we stayed higher than the book recommends to avoid the dirty gully. We ended up a little high and had to rap off the first spire and down climb for about 50-60 feet. We did the trip in two days, but I'd recommend three. Hiking out in the dark then driving back to Seattle made for a long day.

Honestly I don't remember that pitch being that hard. I didn't lead it though, so perhaps that made a difference in my memory. Let me think about it some more. 8/31 Philfort - Thought about it, looked a the topo and pics. I still don't remember this pitch being too difficult. I vaguely remember taking the path that robertm describes. It was a long day. And we did that pitch just before a lunch break. I was more focused on getting through it so I could stop to eat. Sorry. [This message has been edited by ehmmic (edited 08-31-2001).]

If you can get a permit for Boston Basin check out the East Ridge Direct route of Forbidden Peak. I did it last weekend and it was really enjoyable. It allowed me to not think of work for the two days we were out and several long stretches since we got back. One small snow gully and some loose 3rd and 4th class stuff on the approach. You will need crampons and an axe for the snow. It's solid, but we didn't need to rope up for it. The climbing was mostly 5.7 with a great 5.8 crux pitch before the 5.2 summit ramp. Enjoy! [This message has been edited by ehmmic (edited 08-29-2001).]

Happy to report that we had another great gathering of the pub club last night. We initiated another couple of new faces. Mark Young and Dave Parker, glad you could make it. Tall tales were told and many brews were savored... Hey Sean, for those of us that can't make the Bellingham bash next Friday are you willing to host a gathering at the Alki pub you mentioned? I recall something about $2.50 pints of microbrew on Tuesday nights... Let us know. Michelle

Thanks Beck for taking the lead and keeping us organized. Eddie I'll take you up on a ride back to Ballard afterwards. Cheers. Michelle

I climbed Forbidden via the East Ridge Direct route. A very nice climb. It was my first big alpine climb and now I'm completely hooked. Woo Hoo!

Are you approaching the climb from Boston Basin or Sahale Arm? If you're in the Basin stop by the lower camp on the moraine and say hello. We'll be there tomorrow and after the climb on Saturday.

I'd be happy to check it out and report back.

Thanks for the info. I'm sure it'll be great.

I'm planning a trip to Forbidden this weekend and plan to do the East Ridge route. Anyone been out there lately or have info on the current approach conditions?

I haven't been back there this season, but climbed it last year. It's a really beautiful climb. No one else was out there but our party. Not sure what your plan is but I suggest 3 days minimum or really light packs. It's a long approach. Good luck and enjoy!

Beck - perhaps I haven't found the "right" wool to wear. I wouldn't go back to what was in my closet. Fill me in. But then I'd just have to save more money to ditch my Mountain Hardware power fleece shirt... Michelle

Neri (and anyone else out there that thinks people with worn out gear reflect an air of experience)... There are people who buy technical gear who aren't flush with cash. They just prefer to spend whatever money they have on it. And I'm not sure there's any correlation between age of gear and experience. As for newbies in the mountains, we should be glad that so many people are taking up an interest in the outdoors. This will hopefully help to preserve these spaces for us and the generations to follow. If you come across people with less experience who may get themselves into trouble out there, offer some advice or ask them if they need help. Experience is gained from being out there and trying things out, but many of us have also benefited from mentors. People who helped to teach us the way. Rather than take the attitude that we were an irritant and barrier to their fun outdoors, they passed on their knowledge and perspective. Don't keep what you've learned to yourself. Unless you don't really have experience to pass it on... p.s. REI and other retailers are not at fault for selling technical gear to people. If they didn't sell it, the companies who make it wouldn't survive and we'd all be stuck carrying/wearing 2.5 lb gore-tex shells. The more gear sold, the more money into new development and we get lighter, more functional gear. A wool sweater may keep you warm when wet, but I'm sure you wouldn't trade your latest fleece sweater for one.

If they are still usable as top ropes, I know of a grass roots women's climbing organization that would take a few. The more experienced chicks in the group have been trying to get some ropes so they can stop setting up top ropes for novices using their own lead ropes. Send me a private message and I'll pass on your contact info.

Have a great time on your trip. If you decided to go with Madness you'll have a good time. I've done several trips with them over the past three years. They were well organized, and when people wanted to learn the guides focused on teaching skills and judgement to help people become more independent.

Beck - let me know how I can help out.

It was a lot of fun to meet the people behind the posts. I'm new to town and to date have only lurked on this board. The pub club is a good group of people. My assessment is they like beer as much as they like climbing. Jules, I'm a little tired too. I don't think I need another beer for a few days... Eddie - thanks again for the ride. I encourage other lurkers (or anonymous posters) to come out and join us next Tuesday.

I'm new to the board...this sounds like a good way to get initiated.