Doug_Hutchinson

I have never heard anyone spray about this linkup before and do not know why since every pitch is classic, has great belay spots, avoids Hyperspace's Pressure Chamber (after seeing someone epic in the Chamber for hours from Orbit a few years ago, I try to avoid even looking at the thing), and finishes on the best two Outer Space pitches. Reason for posting is to recommend this linkup and correct (I think) info about going from Iconoclast to the Shield/OS headwall pitches. P1 - Climb RPM (10+, R slab) or Remorse (.6 or .7). P2 - Traverse Remorse P2 to base of Psychopath (.8). P3 - Climb Psychopath (11-) or skip it on the left via an easier corner. Psychopath is awesome but PG-13 to R-rated and would be a scary-ass lead (I had the luxury of seconding - thanks Steve). Nelson describes it well: after a "fierce, thin, steep crack...the crack turns into a useless seam, so you get suckered out onto face holds to the left while the seam diagonals out to the right. The face holds end so you're balancing out on the face thinking you've screwed up, blinding trying to find a useful hold on the seam, and eventually have to a barn-doory move off the seam to get back into good finger locks." This crux happens about 12 feet above the last piece and there is still more runout hardish climbing to the belay. P4 - Iconoclast corner system - pitch 1. Goes up a crack and bypasses a small roof on the left; most guides rate this pitch .10 but felt easier. Fun, moderate, quality climbing. P5 - More of the Iconoclast corner. This pitch tackles a slightly overhanging, corner/crack system and then ends with some lower angle but dirtier moves to a two-bolt belay. This is an in-your-face lead that I felt was very pumpy to protect but steep and weird enough that I had to sew up. The holds and gear were good but felt like solid .10+ for about 25 feet in the middle. P6 - (This is where both the Smoot and Kramer guides have it a little off, I think). From this bolt belay, Hyperspace continues up the corner straight up, and there is a bolt up and right that leads to the Shield (and the continuation of Iconoclast). After clipping this bolt, there is a little sporty 10c, one seam that takes a good wire, one more 10c move to turn over to the Shield, then about 40 solid feet of runout .7 traversing on chickenheads to gain almost the bottom of the first OS headwall pitch (not Library Ledge as is stated). This a great pitch finishing with 100 feet of the world famous OS crack to Library Ledge. Buyer beware - the climbing on this pitch is very runout and requires a 70m rope. P7/8 - finish Outerspace. This and Colchuck Balanced Rock are the two best longer routes that I have done in the Leavenworth area and, for that matter, the whole range. OK, now is your chance to spray about how much more classic Hyperspace is (maybe next year)...

I have a wide foot and I like Garmont teleboots alot, but have been amazed about how weird and narrow the Garmont AT boot line was - ugh, painfall and crude. However, they (Garmont) built the impressive Adrenalin boot on a whole new, fat American-foot last. I highly recommended the Adrenalins. Very comfortable, extremely powerful and not too heavy for what you get. They probably changed the name for this season.

Great question. A few years, ago when Sam Bennetts (sp?) was still open, I would say Mike Atch was the best (where is Atch now?). Currently, in PDX I am happily impressed by Neal's work at US Outdoor. Any other PDX shoppes we should know about? PS - it typically comes to the tech, not the shop.

I just spent two weeks in the Dolomites a few weeks ago. I am kinda rushed right now so PM me for more info - the Dolomites appear very confusing from afar but are very user friendly. From Venice, I would head North to Cortina and base out of there - which is a big, somewhat ugly (for Italy) ski town. Not having a car seems noble, especially in Euro cities, but a car will vastly increase your climbing options and overall experience. We paid about $375 USD for a week rental (go, go diesel Fiat) and I would never go to the Dolomites without. My favorite base would be the town of Canazei about three hours west of Cortina and below Sella Pass. Much more quaint but still great access to the mountains. The Dolomites are superb! Enjoy.

No belay bolt was found. The start of pitch 3 for us was a steep and awkward OW right above the belay (I still can't figure out how to post pics after I start a TR - here is a link to that OW pic): The OW is obscured but to the right of Michael - only about 15 hard feet in all but very obvious from the belay. http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=18648&size=big&sort=1&cat=500 I wouldn't call that a squeeze passage. You can see the start of the obvious dihedral we avoided above the climber - this dihedral appears very inviting when seen from the Zig Zag glacier but not so pretty close up. We went right around it. Higher up, I was planning on squeezing in a chimney under a large chockstone (maybe the "squeeze passage"?) but chose a more direct jam crack and corner system to the right which exited on the W. Gable. The chimney squeeze thing would lead to the same area but a little left of the route I took. After the first bit of p3 shown in the pic (felt like awkward 5.9) everything we did was 5.6-5.8. After the fact, I assumed we should have stayed left for pitches 3 and 4 but the aspect of your topo is more from up mountain so we weren't sure if we should go slightly right or left of the true ridge - we went right. Too far left and I assume we would have ended up on the West Arete.

No winter pics since it was 4-5 years ago = pre-digital for me. We did "Iron Maiden" then which was semi-classic and relatively straight-forward and safe. That route was farther east and connected gullies with some steeper ice steps. The SW Ridge was following the steepest rock in the general area until we moved right (east) on pitch 3 to avoid a steep but loose diheldral below the West Gable. I would recommend Iron Maiden with decent ice.

My feelings exactly, so I went out tonight to get those laps in - felt great. It was cool to run into a lot of the regulars - Jim O doing Jill's Thrills, Mark (now in Bend) starting off, and Bill Coe on YW, among others. Question - the fee envelope boxes all say "No Fee" now - did the parking fee go away? Sorry - I did not read the entire thread. The place looks fantastic. The grassy/bushy sections of the SE corner are cleaner than I have ever seen them. Nice work again to everyone who was out last weekend, thanks!

Climb: Illumination Rock-SW Ridge Date of Climb: 6/18/2006 Trip Report: Climbed the SW ridge on I-Rock under full-on rock conditions with Michael Nozel (AKA the Great Iron Monger for his pitoncraftwerk). The day was beautiful and the rock very awful. It may have been up to 5.9 but the easier the climbing, the worse the rock got. Luckily, the gear was good since falls due to broken holds seemed very likely. Nozel on the first pitch: We got to the West Gable in four pitches - moving east of ridge crest for the third and fourth (i.e, east of where Wallace has the route on his great topo). Pitches 1, 3, 4 were semi-terrifying due to crap rock but the gear was pretty good. The best part of the climb was moving along the summit ridge from the West Gable to the true (East) summit = exposed and spectacular! The overhanging summit block (perched over Michael in pic below) was very cool too, a nice exposed mid-fifth boulder problem. I-Rock covered in ice is a worthwhile objective (I climbed just east of this route in winter and had a very different opnion of I-rock then) but leave the rock alone! Jeff Thomas said it perfectly: "The volcanic rock of Illumination rock is good when compared to the rest of Mt Hood, but terrible when contrasted to what modern rock climbers prefer. Still, to paraphrase Tom Patey, any fool can climb good rock, it takes a special fool to climb bad rock." I would advise against becoming a special fool. Gear Notes: Nuts, pins, hexes (yes!) and a few cams Approach Notes: Don't disturb the skiers, they paid and we didn't, damn it.

Joseph and co - you all are amazing! Thanks for all the effort - that is one hella lot of work!

What's really sad is that Oregon rock means sport climbs at Smith to the vast majority of Oregon climbers. A new guide to get people to new areas doesn't sound like a bad thing. Don't worry, your previously secret, locals-only crag will probably only improve with a little more traffic. Pete's Pile is seeing a lot less traffic than it did in the late 90s. Second, I've always thought it was weird that I keep referring to my dog-eared semi-ancient Dodge or Thomas guides for beta on Oregon climbs. Stein's Pillar say what? Third, can anyone list a really active all-around state-wide climber who is qualified and capable of writing this guide? Wayne is in Washington, Yoder is in Washington although climbs everywhere, McGown's retired, Harlin is in Hood River but I don't think climbs much in Oregon, etc. Lastly, I still hear lots of climbers bitch about Smoot's Washington Rock guide, but I still no know better info for many of the crags listed. It aint perfect, but no guide is. I know nothing about the authors or the guide (maybe it sucks, no one that posted yet seems to know), but this guide book whore can't have enough info on newer areas.

Couldn't agree more Kat! I am pissed that I committed to so many weekends of rock lately when the weather and snowpack has been so good. Fall is the time to crag. Back to the mountains!

Good point and question. On 4/7 there was still visible snow on the road at the gate at Icicle Creek. I am hoping to ski Cashmere this weekend and assume it will be mostly a hike to the TH. Anyone want to provide more recent snowpack info and speculate about the gate opening?

Fucking triple badass! In a climbing world where "style" is becoming a somewhat overused term, TC skied solo, freeheel, in-a-day, night-naked, with no pre-inspection is pretty freakin' proud style - nice work. I have noticed that as well. I think the answer is that NW skiers are getting bolder - only about 20 years behind dem Euros now. In addition, this year has simply been unreal for skiing. Lots of quality snow with lots of high pressure in between with low freezing levels equals amazing conditions. Climbs that felt difficult a few years ago, skied easily to me this year, but it all came down to the fantastic snow since I aint got no betta at skiing in years.

Congrats on getting it early, because we skied it around 1:00 PM and (besides your party) there were seven others that skied it before it us and four more after. Super nice snow (deep powder) and a great line. The Phatom Slide with the waterfall direct variation was super nice too, heavy but fun with pretty good coverage over the waterfall. For anyone that has not skied this before, I suggest not climbing the Slot (like described in the Volken book) but dropping in from the top. Wallowing up the Slot in knee deep powder was work!

Let the I-rock spring season begin! I say we make I-rock to PDX what Chair is to Seattle and someone tries it daily so we all know when the ice is climbable. Now for the techie gearhead question for this guy (Marcus?) It's about the Grivel leashless leashes you have attached to your Vipers. Two questions: 1) Are you using them with fangs and if so, did you drill a hole in the fangs to make a clip-in point? There isn't a lot room around the bolt on the fang inside the hole in pick but I am about to try to drill one. 2) Do you like the way those Grivel ones work? The reason that I ask is that Jim Nelson basically talked me out of buying them (it's a good thing he doesn't own a gear shop or anything) in lieu of tying cord to each tool and attaching to a simple chest harness made out of a double-length sling. The reasoning was that you do not have all the extra elastic cord getting in the way when you climb and if you want to climb with your hands, the attachment at chest level vs at the harness means the tools aren't dragging about five feet below you. Any thoughts?

OK, you're right, it's Salmon Run and Michael Nozel doesn't know how to read a guide book and I couldn't be bothered to get mine out ('til now). At least there isn't like a half page photo in the guide of climbers on the route to help us figure out the name or anything.

It's one of "the Pillars" and it's located above the highway a little east of the Cape Horn lookout. Can't miss it, about a 45 second approach. Amazing thing was we didn't get wet while climbing!

Climb: Gorge Ice-05/06 Round Deuce Date of Climb: 2/20/2006 Trip Report: Took the liberty of starting a new thread for the second round of Gorge ice this year in hopes of hearing more about what's in. Today (2-20-06), Michael Nozel and I climbed the Pillar (upper tier of Cape Horn) and found almost perfect conditions. At 200 feet and WI4 with great plastic ice, this is the best single pitch that I have climbed in the Gorge. I would expect the ice to hang in for at least another day so get on it.

We climbed this route on 2/17 (Fri) during the "artic wind event 2006" (which did not really happen) and found exactly the same conditions. The Chair Peak area is doing very nicely during this "high snow year." How great would be it if we got more bluebird days where the temps never get above 20 degrees F in Cascades?

Now that I am sober and awake, I am mildly ashamed at the poor TR. We left Cooper Spur Trail Head at 2:30 AM and returned to our car at 4:00 PM. Yes, solo you should do it way faster - we were in no hurry, it was quite cold so there was no need to go fast. If you solo it, forget the stubbies - free the first ice/rock band and avoid the second one by climbing around it on the left.

Climb: Mt Hood-North Face Date of Climb: 2/12/2006 Trip Report: Dave Keltner and I climbed the NF today under stellar conditions - could not have been more in. Left Cooper Spur at 0230 and returned by 1600. Wind buff and no crevases anywhere made the Elliot a cruise. Crossing the 'shrund on a ramp near the right was quick (note nice ice on the two rock bands above). First rock band consisted of about 75 feet of up to WI3- ice (looks like it's a low angle slope in the pic) Classic NF crusing between the bands: The second rock band had longer and steeper ice (up to WI3+. Coming down Cooper Spur was perfect - would ski really well now. Did I mention what good conditions we found? What a winter - great snow by early Nov, great gorge ice in Dec, tons more snow in Jan, and now fantastic alpine conditions. Can we tons of snow in Feb/Mar and maybe, just maybe the first stable Spring climbing we have seen in several years? Gear Notes: 6 pickets, 3 screws (needed stubbies) Approach Notes: Great trail to Tiley Jane and super nice snow on the Elliot and descending Cooper Spur.

2/11/06 Mtn weather and avy forecast, shows what can happen to a forecaster when things get a little too stable up there: WEATHER SYNOPSIS FOR SATURDAY AND SUNDAY It's hard to believe, What the weather has done, From clouds, wind and snow, To the warmth of bright sun. Now on south facing slopes, You've got a nice crust, Breakable in places, Making skiing quite a bust. At least the danger is low, From settlement and rounding- Not much loose snow to move, Though pass winds have been pounding. But the real problem is, What may glitter on top- It's that little surface hoar, That clear nights like to drop. You'll know it right away, From each sparkling facet- That tinkles and fractures, As soon as you pass it. But winds and sun, Have made its development sporadic- Confined to sheltered locations, Where formation's more automatic. But imagine a load, Perched over this layer- It's a recipe that's doomed, From the start for failure. So as soon as the ridge, Flattens or moves- And we go back into, Some real stormy grooves. The stage is all set, For danger to be rising- With a crust and hoar frost, It's not all that surprising. And in places with no, Surface hoar to find- Watch temps with new snow, To see how it will bind. Models show that next week, Should get windy and cold- And if you throw in some snow, Sensitive slabs may not hold. The cold weather should allow, Temperature gradients to develop- And associated vapor transport, Upper layers will envelop. The resulting new crystals, Will be faceted and meek- Concentrating near crusts, Where bonds will be weak. So stay aware of the weather, And the changing snowpack- And make note of the layers, Before the slabs attack.

Now for the dumb question from the Oregon guy - which side of Lichtenberg are you guys aiming to ski? It was love at first site when I saw the south face for the first time and assumed the fastest way out is Nason Creek. Do you go in and out the Smith Brook Road way if shooting for the south side? Is the skiing good between the summit and the lake (east/southeast?)? Also, I will be up there 1/20-22 so if it is stable and anyone wants to ski it, let me know.

Thanks are mainly due to, as always, for the tireless work of Keith Daellenbach and Kellie Rice to keep Madrone moving ever forward to being saved/reopened. The amount of effort those two have put forth continues to amaze and inspire.

I'll be there. Since I helped the good folks of the Madrone Wall Preservation Committee send out 850 letters announcing the show yesterday, there probably could be a few others there (not quite Mazama-scale networking but growing all the time). Visit www.savemadrone.org for other important Madrone-related dates.