Doug_Hutchinson

I have a crampon problem so need to sell at least one (or four?) pairs... Cassin Alpinist Tech crampons. Excellent condition, used three days and never filed just scratched the paint off. Includes pouch.Ad copy:Camp USA's lightest ice crampon for technical alpinismAggressive mono-point with secondary point for greater stabilityMicro-adjustable linking bar ensures a secure fitAnti-balling plates and carry case includedAutomatic compatibility for boots with toe and heel weltsSemi-Auto Toe and Heel Bails sold separately for semi-automatic compatibility Please respond to this add: https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/spo/d/seattle-camp-cassin-alpinist-tech/7254054972.html

Scarpa Phantom Techs, size US 10. These are the previous version. Used one season, probably 20 days. They are in good condition, one small crampon hole, which is completely patched and waterproof (see third pic). Please respond to Craigslist add: https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/spo/d/seattle-scarpa-phantom-techs-2018/7254048363.html

La Sportiva Spantik. Excellent condition, used less than 10 days on snow only. Super warm boots with removable liners.They are size US 10.5 or Euro 44. I am usually a US 9.5 or 10 in boots and had to size up since these seem to run small. Please see pics and contact me via: https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/spo/d/seattle-la-sportiva-spantik-us/7254040601.html

Blue Ice Warthog 45 backpack - 45 liters, size medium. Quiver of one, nearly perfect alpine climbing pack. I say nearly perfect because it did not have a way to lash crampons to the outside so I added elastic and a cord toggle to do just that. Great condition, just a a little dirt stain on the bottom. Comes with helmet detachable helmet holder. PLEASE VIEW PICS AND RESPOND TO THIS CRAIGLIST ADD IF INTERESTED: https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/spo/d/seattle-blue-ice-warthog-45-backpack/7251627486.html I live just south of downtown Seattle on N Beacon Hill and will be around every other day for the next 10 days. FeaturesBack torso length: M (47cm)Quick opening drawcord systemRemovable thermo-formed, semi-rigid back panel with aluminum staysRemovable sternum strap and padded waist belt with 2 gear loopsRemovable side compression straps2 ice axe holders with custom bucklesDetachable helmet holderHydration bladder-compatibleRope holderTwo zipped pocketsConstruction: 210D high-tenacity ripstop nylon 66Volume: 45LDimensions: 68x29x18cm (M)Weight: 994g / min 711g

Thanks for the sharing your experience on Chair @Eli Spitulnik. The technical climbing is often the easiest part of a Cascade alpine adventure, especially in the winter; and finding the descent gully/rap stations off Chair is not trivial. I have seen many slides on that slope your partner triggered - the loading is often way different on that climbers left side of the upper Chair Peak basin compared to the slope you ascend on the right to start the route. As soon as one enters the Source Lake basin the avalanche terrain exposure quickly ramps from challenging to complex and increases to straight up complex in the Chair basin - basically most of the approach/descent is one big terrain trap, so the forecasted avy danger for given day doesn't mean that much in that zone. Great TR! Sharing your experience is very educational.

This is the greatest thing to happen to PNDub ice climbing since Showa released the Temres 282-02s, nice work @Kyle M!!!! The location maps are money. Do you think Frenchman Falls will be in tomorrow?? (That, of course, is a super funny nod, nod, wink, wink, joke) How much are you going charge for the premium version with the webcams and telemetry data associated with each climb?

Thanks for the link Kurt. Calvin is the next corner system, up and right (west), that was our plan B because it looks better now compared to the FA. Christian Junkar made this video of what we climbed. Does a good job of showing the current state of the ice, or lack thereof https://youtu.be/eb9cnOqKXg0

Ice is slowing forming, but it is still early. On Thursday (Dec 3), Tom and Christian scratched their way up Chair's NE Butt's left variation and reported snicey conditions - not recommended yet. Chair from Snoqualmie, looks more covered than it is: The three of us went reconning on Snoqualmie's NW Face yesterday, and managed to scratch two pitches up this slabby flow in a corner halfway between the Thunder Basin exit chute (AKA west ridge notch) and the Snot. This climb starts right of a large cave and looks like it would top out through a house-size chockstone. Anyone know its history and route name? We found several rap anchors. The exit chute is off to the right center edge of this photo: New York Gully, under very dry conditions: Pineapple Express/Blue Moon - thin but probably the farthest along currently: Turf Testament, still pretty turfy:

I am preemptively (and prematurely) starting this thread in an attempt to consolidate ice conditions beta here. As the seasonal stoke is building, I have been involved in many offline conversations about the best way to share condition info. My vote is to not reinvent the wheel, and do it here; solely or in addition to any of the numerous (and ephemeral) Facebook forums. Since I am aware that posting to an internet-based forum is way too time consuming for many, next best would be to strongly encourage that you tag your local social media ice posts with #WAice. Last we talked, Kyle M was redesigning the internet to create a better ice conditions mousetrap. Even if he dazzles and amazes again, this can be the repository for unpolished beta that he later shines and geocodes up. To not be a complete tease, here is all I got now: Mt Baker seracs and the lower flows on Heliotrope have received a decent amount of activity in late Oct/early Nov. I don't think Cosley Houston fully formed and was climbed before the snow switch flipped ON the second week of November and access become challenging, but the early season skiing has been the best in years. My #WAice season began on Nov 13. Tom and I were hoping for some semi-alpine ice in the WA Pass zone but the deep, unconsolidated snow pack (21" fell the day we were there) meant cross country travel, even with skis, was nearly impossible and the pass closed for the season (very early) a few hours after we left. The consolation was getting the rust off on the practice roadcut ice along the highway below the Liberty Bell group: This morning (Happy Thanksgiving), I skied around Alpental Valley (can you say concrete) and as expected there was nothing/nada, nary a drip or drab to be seen. The snow is deep but the temps have been consistently too warm to get anything more than a few icicles forming. Based on the long term forecasts, it will be several weeks before any pick dulling may be possible in the Alpental zone. Mazama is reportedly all dry now too. It is still very early. Happy ice hunting.

Sweet photos and TR! But don't tell anyone how awesome it is there... We we were the party arriving when you were leaving. Love that place. You got better snow but we had a little better weather (I assume).

Wayne and I climbed this route on Sunday, thank you FAs! A really fun great addition. I think we had more ice on the mixed pitches than you (one week later) so could use screws most of the way. P2 was especially fun but both the mixed pitches were really great. Hope it doesn't fall apart during the warm up before more people can check it out. The top of P1 (right after the pillar) and the end of the last pitch had no barely any ice when we climbed it. Before I saw this, I posted some super shitty pics in the OR/WA thread in the ice climbing forum on this site (but yours are much better). You guys are on fire in Bridge River canyon with new routes!

Add - uploading IG photos to CC.com from my phone in the back of a bar was so easy with the new software even I could do it after a few drinks, but they sure look funny (more saturated and pixelated) now that I am in front of a computer. Oh well, any content is better than no content.

Just like everyone knows the best rock climbing area in Oregon is Beacon Rawk, in years like this one the best WA ice is found in Lil'wet. A cold air mass has been parked north of the border for the past several weeks so the ice up there now is good. On Saturday, Wayne and I climbed Capricorn = a classic Lillooet WI5 in the isolated Bridge River Valley. Sunday, we got the second ascent of Bitcoin Billionaire, a route first climbed a week ago by Danny O'Farrell, Hunter Lee and Steve Janes located a little out of view of the top of the pic above. It is a 7 pitch, M5/6, WI4 insta-classic with all the alpine essentials: a river ford, a snow slog to the base high up the valley, a fragile pillar start, two cool mixed chimneys, and a final phat curtain. The only thing missing was a bear attack, maybe someday.

Did a quick drive by Banks on way home from Canada yesterday. I would describe conditions as anemic. There isn't enough moisture from seeps or snow melt to build chubby ice now. None of the Devil's Punch Bowl climbs or Champagne are close. Here are shitty pics of the best ice I saw. Children of the Sun, the Cable (can TR but fragile), Xenith (not close):

Arc'Teryx Alpha Comp jacket, medium, macaw. Bought at the sample sale, never used. Still has tag. Fantastic hybrid jacket (Goretex where you need it stretch soft shell where you don't) for climbing and backcountry skiing. I like it so much, I had to buy a backup (this one) but I have way too many shells now, so selling. I work in downtown Seattle and live on Beacon Hill so can meet in either location. Please reply to Craig's List ad: https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/spo/6043465261.html More info: The Arc'teryx Men's Alpha Comp Hoody is a hybrid jacket for weather protection and warmth while ice and alpine climbing. The Alpha Comp is versatile, using dual construction of fabrics to provide weather protection at the hood, shoulders, forearms, and hem with stretch through the core and underarms. The Fortius 1.0 fabric is stretchy and helps regulate heat. The trim fit falls to the hip, staying out of the way of climbing gear so you can focus on the next movement instead of adjusting your jacket. The hand pockets are lifted and won't get in the way of your harness, even if you have a snack tucked inside. Complete with a durable water repellent finish, the jacket takes on the weather without sacrificing movement or temperature. Pictured here: http://www.moosejaw.com/moosejaw/shop/product_Arcteryx-Men-s-Alpha-Comp-Hoody_10251190_10208_10000001_-1_

Spent today scratching around Bryant Peak/Alpy Valley environs with Wayne. Ice conditions were surprisingly poor. Waist deep wallows accessed poorly-adhered, weak candle sticks. Chockstone looked in, Flow Reversal had ice but probably not continuous/climbable, and Resistance is Futile is MIA. We attempted the second ascent of Wayne and Laurel's FA from last winter - The Circumvention. Good route in scrappy shape now (but fun trying). Mixed pitches were OK but negligible ice to be found. Great overview sunny shot of this area from yesterday in this TR, first pic shows Bryant Couloir, Flow Reversal and the Circumvention (if you can pick them out under the snow): http://www.turns-all-year.com/skiing_snowboarding/trip_reports/index.php?topic=37320.0 Seems like the cold snap flash froze the ice making machine and big weather changes are required for additional ice making, at least for climbs depending on melt/freeze in this area. I recommend looking for creek-type ice, or better yet, skiing now.

SOLD La Sportiva Katana Lace climbing shoes, size 41.5 (performance fit about US 9.5 to 10). Used 5 days - basically new. Too large for my size 9 feet. $100. Outdoor Gear Lab's top all-around shoe: http://m.outdoorgearlab.com/Climbing-Shoes-Reviews I work in downtown Seattle and live near Seattle Bouldering Project so can meet near either location. Please respond to Craiglist ad: http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/spo/5788660229.html

Selling two pairs of well-used ice tools: 1) Black Diamond Vipers (first generation) pair - one with hammer and one with adze. Picks still have decent life left and all new BD picks are compatible with these tools. Good all around modern leashless tools. $150 for the pair. 2) Charlet Moser Pulsars pair - one with hammer and one with adze. Includes leashes. Would work great for Cascade mountaineering and as a second tool with a longer ax. $100 for the pair. I am in Seattle and don't really want to ship. Please view and reply to this Craigs List post: http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/spo/5508771466.html

Wayne, no mention about Rocket Man being so in? My ears are still ringing from your orgasmic howls during the drive by. EVERYTHING is in. It is a great season up here. It got pretty cold over the holiday week (O to -20F everyday, so the ice got pretty brittle) but temps are beginning to moderate now. It actually got into the low 20s Fahrenheit today in Field which is the highest I've seen since moving here in mid December

Sorry I left that out. It is a S/M. I am 5'10" and I purposely got the smaller one to ride above a harness but it is probably too small for someone bigger. Note- the Speed40 is the only pack left, the other two are sold.

All three packs sold.

We were the second rope team - at the base of the Pressure Chamber when the rock cut loose. Brandon - way to keep it together to finish the pitch. I can't imagine being Florian (sp?) and having that block explode a few feet away (RandyEL - nice meeting you, we were the party that retold the story at the base of the wall). From what I have been seeing Iconoclast and Hyperspace seem to be getting almost as much traffic as Outerspace recently. As everyone else has said, there are still some scary death blocks remaining both where the rockfall happened at the top of the pitch below the 11a yellow alt pitch on Iconoclast, and the somewhat boot-shaped block wedged in on the first Hyperspace pitch. I expect no love for this opinion but between the loose blocks and increased traffic, bolted belay anchors (in rock that aint going nowhere) would be a nice addition to Iconoclast and Hyperspace.

All aboard. Roj and I sent today quickly followed by Colin and Sara Hart. Today was a good day. Never afraid of superlatives, this is the best ice route in WA and is currently under fantastic conditions. The crux is a rad WI6 dagger, super solid now. The 'shrund at the base is gonna stop access soon though. And, yes, I am honoring the tradition of posting about the Polish Route under Cosley Houston TRs.

So then, Roskelley might not be guaranteed your vote if he runs for office again? No doubt some of the questions were simply stupid even if they were an attempt at humor ("what is your favorite brand of lawnmower" WTF?) but I really liked the format of a casual fireside chat between friends as opposed to a completely reverential moderator asking the usual boring questions he has been asked a zillion times and I doubt the Mounties could have found someone else that Reinhold could feel as relaxed with. I have seen Reinhold about 15 years ago and the first half slide show was basically identical. During the Roskelley chat, I learned more about him than through his books and slideshow. Even through the dumb lawn mower question we learned that Reinhold's wife "wears the pants in the family" and she basically takes care of the castle. I liked the questions about his view of the Dawn Wall and the two recent Ueli Steck controversies and hearing Reinhold soften on style matters ("I have changed my view and I am less concerned about the style someone climbs anymore and more that they are honest about what style they used" or something like that). Anyway, although at times awkward it appeared to me that Reinhold was comfortable and having fun. This was a far cry from the Reinhold I saw the day before when he crashed our private Super Bowl party and watched in horror the spectacle of American football warts and all (i.e., with rabid 12th men jumping up and down, a booming PA system and 5 feet from a 100" screen). It was like dropping the Dali Lama in front row seats at a mixed martial arts fight - Reinhold was definitely not into it. Does he look like he is having fun? Lastly, Roskelley being happy/goofy was nice change from most elder PNW mountaineers who I usually find way too serious. Long winded way of saying, I liked the format and Roskelley was the probably the right man for the job but he needed an editor (EVERYONE needs an editor). And yes, obviously, my whole reason for replying is a chance to show off that pic.

The new Index route du jour! Wayne and I climbed it last weekend. Loved the first and last pitches. Funny how a climb put up 8 years ago is now on everyone's radar.