Uncle_Tricky

What's the difference between sandbags and "testpieces?" I think many of the climbs people have mentioned could be considered testpieces for the grades instead of sandbags. To me a testpiece is a high quality climb that generally sets the standard for the grade at the area. If you can climb the testpieces, you can probably do OK of other climbs of the grade in the area. Anyway, I'd third the last pitch of the S. face of Prusik and the Aries chimney at Index. I've also seen the one move fist crack on the first pitch of Aries confound many people, but I wouldn't call it a sandbag. I didn't think the "nervous 5.6" on the SW Rib of SEWS was that nervous, but I did get nervous on the wide bear hug pitch (7+), as I had no gear big enough to matter. Enough people have died on Double Cross (7+) at Josh, I'd say it would qualify as a sandbag. The first gear is ways up and the fist jamming begins right after that. Since it's a popular beginner route, people pitch and ground all too often. "The Owl" on the Dome in Boulder Canyon is a two pitch 5.7 that's hard for the grade. Layton Kor's climbs tend to be rated very modestly. Then again, they were graded by a 6 foot 6 bricklayer with an absurd reach and hands the size of hams. Wolf Tooth Crack (5.8) on the Twin Owls in Estes Park. Burly. The Damnation Crack of Estes. [ 08-16-2002, 05:52 PM: Message edited by: Uncle Tricky ]

What I've always wondered, is who mows all that tundra up in Denali National Park?

I soberly climb safely altered.

While the dome itself it on public land, it's hard to access without crossing some private property. Use your own discretion. Some decent slabby face/friction but nothing that unique or outstanding. The climbing shop in L-worth gives out topos of the pearly gates.

For sale: Boreal SST climbing shoes, women's size 8. Slipper style shoe that looks exactly like the "Zen" except they are orange. They would make a good bouldering, sport or gym shoe. A friend bought these shoes a couple years back, wore them twice, then left them in her closet. So they are a couple years old, but in virtually perfect condition. $30 OBO. Drop me an email if interested. [ 08-10-2002, 07:26 PM: Message edited by: Uncle Tricky ]

Yeah you can lieback it, but I think it's easiest to jam it straight on. The jams are so positive you can just counterpressure/friction your feet up without even using the crack. It's a good test because it makes you choose between jamming or liebacking without a lot of options in between. Hell, I'd pay good money to watch a sport climber lieback (on lead) a straight in jamcrack!

If you're averse to wire-gates (which I'm not) Kong's Helium biners are just as light as neutrinos. Plus they're good for racking stoppers since key-lock closure means there's no notch for the gear to get hung on.

The truth!?!?! You can't handle DA Toof!!!

DFA, is it standard practice to lower off through the anchors at Smith? Do you usually run it through the links or your own draws when top roping? Do people ever rap instead of lowering to save wear on the anchor? Just curious about your take on local etiquette.

I choose not to decorate my helmet, but it does have character. It doubles as a soup bowl. The battle ax that came with it is heavy, but handy for class 4 Cascade bushwhacking. [ 08-09-2002, 01:44 PM: Message edited by: Uncle Tricky ]

USHBA! Works great (solo TR), is fun to say, and is a good use of tin gleaned from melting down old Soviet Ladas.

Ding ding ding! We have a winner. Fame and an antique hex are yours... From the Tri-City Herald: The day the highway opened, the late Ted Bundy was a campaign worker doing his part to get former Gov. Dan Evans elected. He got to drive the limo. Bundy later told onetime friend and biographer Ann Rule, "They thought that President Nixon was going to show up, and they had Secret Service men checking everybody out. His brother came instead, but I didn't care. I got to lead 15,000 people in a 64-mile parade across the mountains."

And no, the answer is not Fred Beckey, tho that would seem fitting.

Who was the first person to drive over the North Cascades Highway when it officially opened on September 2, 1972? First correct response receives a vintage Chouinard 1970-somthing hex (recently reslung).

Might may not make right, but it sure makes what is. Ayyyy Fairweather--you make for a tempting target, but what's the point of hunting pidgeons? [ 08-04-2002, 08:21 AM: Message edited by: Uncle Tricky ]

Hey JayB, bridge to Royal columns is gone. There was (is?) a tyrolean traverse 100 yards upstream of where the bridge used to be. Much easier and faster to just walk across the stream maybe another 100 yards upstream--hardly more than shin deep. You can make a nice round trip by crossing the bridge at the Bend, climbing there, walking downriver on the nature trail for 15 minutes to climb at the royal columns, then wade the stream back to the road. The Bend stays shady in the morning, which can be nice. Royal Columns: X-factor/Cutting Edge--both fun 7s Inca Roads--9 nice fingers Thriller Piller--somewhat runout edgy 9 face Paul Maul--10c companion to Orange Sunshine The Bend: Ed's Jam 8--long, nice hand jams Local Knowledge--very cool 2 pitch .10/.9 crack House Rules--9 crack to nice 10c face Pure Joy 10c--balancy, fun, challenging pro as you can't always see into the crack. The corner crack immediately to the right is also good and little easier. Also up the river a bit is Wildcat Crack--challenging 10b that will find any weaknesses you have. Have fun--it's a beautiful spot. [ 08-04-2002, 03:10 AM: Message edited by: Uncle Tricky ]

Also, some stem off the R wall on the second half of Toxic, which cuts the grade.

Yeah, that slab/corner out onto the face pitch is a kick. I guess I think about Orbit as mostly gear-protected face climbing with some hand and finger jams thrown in. When I think of friction climbs, I think of nothing but smears for feet, where your hands are just there to keep your upper body balanced. But it's true--we all use friction on almost all climbs.

Capt., surprised you mention Orbit and friction together--just climbed it yesterday and found not one friction move. Very fun though. As far as WA friction goes, I'd vote for Darrington or Static Point. Runouts below the grade are an integral part of the slab experience!

RAMROD is a good ride with a great geographic focus. A few years back it fell on the hottest day of the year with no wind. Result = 9 hours of suffering. The Death Ride is harder with more vertical, but not as aesthetic as the round-trip round Ranier. [ 08-02-2002, 06:43 PM: Message edited by: Uncle Tricky ]

According to Smoot, this sport slab is one of "the best friction climbs in Washington" and a "New Classic" where you "seem to be clipping a bolt every time you make a move" (18 of them if you do it in a single pitch!!!) Plus you get to enjoy the sound of nearby freeway traffic. See here for details. [ 08-02-2002, 07:36 PM: Message edited by: Uncle Tricky ]

Is our avatar our name or the little pic? In any case, I was christened Uncle Tricky by my brother's kids. I showed them a bunch of magic tricks, and a few years back the little one started calling me Uncle Tricky, and it stuck. Now, that's how I'm addressed by my bro, his wife, their 4 kids and even my folks when they are there. As far as the pic--well, that infamous neo-luddite hombre was pretty tricky! [ 07-28-2002, 09:58 PM: Message edited by: Uncle Tricky ]

Probably caddis flies--there's 7,000 species. They're laying eggs each time they bounce on the water. A popular trout fly.

NW Corner of North Early Winters on Tuesday. Had the spire to ourselves. The 3rd-5th pitches are outstanding. Truly memorable. Fingers, hands, fists, offwidth, liebacking, underclings, stemming, face, etc.--it's got it all. Donated a quart of blood to the local well-fed skeeter population, which was kind enough to accompany us up the route. [ 07-26-2002, 12:40 PM: Message edited by: Uncle Tricky ]

The Teriyaki/Curry take-out place in Twisp. Decent food, nice folks, good prices and portions--and it has character. The only place where you can buy a woodstoves, a variety of "No Trespassing" signs, birdhouses, sculptures, log furniture or have your film developed while you've waiting for your order.