Uncle_Tricky

The idea that "if you haven't done anything wrong, then you have nothing to hide" reveals a basic lack of respect and understanding for the principles of the constitution. I value the bill of rights, not because I personally, selfishly NEED them to protect me, but because I think they are innately valuable (or, as our founders put it, God-Given) principles on which to order a just and free society in the first place. When we take those rights away from those who do have something to hide, our own rights have been lost as well, because the same rights serve both citizen and criminal.

AlpineK poses a good question for the fans of the 2nd amendment who don't seem to care much for the 4th. I'm interested to hear what Greg, et al have to say about that. I wonder how Hillary Clinton will use the new police state powers we're giving to the executive branch if she's elected in '08. Perhaps Chuck Schumer would be in charge of total information awareness? I mean, a total surveillance society would sure be handy in rooting out that dangerous "vast right wing conspiracy" that was to blame for all her husband's problems. But seriously, I like the Bill of Rights--all of them--not just the certain ones trumpeted by the Democratic party, or the select favorites of the Republican party. I'm happy there's an ACLU out there, and I'm happy there's an NRA. I'm not interested in giving away our constitutionally protected freedoms to anyone, whether their last name is Bush or Clinton or whatever. Because regardless of how much I support or trust the leader of the day, the day WILL come when we will regret what we have lost.

I've heard the approach to the O&T can be pretty heinous, complete with routefinding difficulties and objective hazards, including but not limited to: driving-while-talking-on-their-cell-phone-and-picking-their-nosemaniacs, vicious (and organized) seagulls, and the Four Horsemen of the Apocalypse. Still my strategy is to travel light and fast, and go for the car-to-car in a day via the coveted old 99 route. Barring bad weather, or an earthquake that entombs me under the Alaska Way Viajustducky, I hope to raise a few

Freaky. Reminds me of a time my younger brother was climbing down at American Fork. He clipped a bolt on this big roof/block. Just when he committed to pulling over the roof, the horizontal crack above the roof/block widened from fingertip size to over an inch. Of course he thought it was all over--he was clipped to this one ton block that was creaking and moving. He couldn't down climb back under the roof/block he was hanging onto. He knew if he fell, it would likely pull the block, which would have been the end for him and his belayer. So, he unclipped the draw that was attached to the bolt on death block, and was able to delicately finish the move and get above the roof. When he rapped down, he was able to levered off the block (with the bolt it it) just by jumping up and down on the horizontal crack that he'd used to pull by it on the way up.

Yah, it be sweet. The last couple pitches of the W face of NEWS are up there as well!

Concerns about privacy and anonymity and Constitutional protections are so last century. After all, if you've done nothing wrong, what have you got to hide? I do think they could have come up with a catchier name for the Patriot Act, though. Perhaps the "Freedom from Constitutional Protections Act," or perhaps the "Freedom from Information Act," or maybe the "Freedom from the Scary Implications of Freedom Act." Just remember kids, it's dangerous to be right if the government is wrong!

After climbing mostly cracks, corners, ow, slabs and chimneys this past season, I felt pretty strong. Then recently I got on some moderate sport climbs that were steep and fingery or overhanging and juggy and I realized how weak I'd become at that sort of climbing. I guess I was kinda surpised by how being in shape for one did and didn't transfer into the other. And of course the physical diffs are just one part of the equasion. So I was wondering about a couple things: First, what are your observations about how the physical conditioning involved in crack climbing contributes to your ability to sport climb, or vice-versa? Second, how and to what extent do the two compliment or differ from each other in terms of technique, strategy or whatever as you're actually climbing? It seems common that most people who have done a fair amount of both trad and sport climbing can lead sport climbs at a higher grade than they can lead gear climbs. How big is the difference for you, and how has that gap evolved over time? Lastly, how big a difference is there between what you can lead and what you can toprope/follow? (a couple grades, more?) How much does this vary depending on whether it's a face climb or a crack route?

I am living proof of Darwin. I was once you. Then I devolved. Then I evolved. Now I revolve. "Are you sure those were chantrelles?"

Yup, tis quiet, too quiet. I'm stuck at work tonight, but I have some leftovers being delivered any minute! So tell us about the new categories for the # of posts--I guess I'd rather be a choss dawg than a chronic gumby.

Dru wrote quote: But hey: check out this website for an explanation: OK, so if I understand you correctly, Mt. Erie is actually just a big concretion of petrified ancient meat-eating hippo poo?

Ultramafic, eh? Now that's a cool name for rock! Too bad that's not what they named granite. ("Dude, I'm going to go climb some ultramafic crack routes.")

Someone told me the Fidalgo Complex is an ophiolite. Ophiolite is formed in areas of rifting where two oceanic plates are being forced apart by addition of new magma from below. The types of rocks which form at spreading ridges are strongly influenced by both igneous and metamorphic processes. This region was a mixing zones, where both solids (lavas) and fluids from the Earth's crust and mantle interact with seawater, resulting in extensive low temperature and low pressure alteration of existing minerals and precipitation of new ones.

So Jake, how would you feel if Russia announced it's intention to invade Saudi Arabia? Seems they could make a similar case based on national interests, given that the Saudis have been proven of funding "terrorists" in Chechnaya fighting for freedom from Russian rule.

Man, we sure know how to pick our allies. Here in the last month, it's been revealed that Pakistan shipped nuclear bomb technology to North Korea in exchange for missile technology as recently as this summer. And this weekend it's been revealed that the Saudi Government was funneling money to the hijackers via the Ambassador's wife right up until September 11. The administration knew about both of these incidents for months, but has tried to keep them secret. 15 years ago, Osama, the Taliban and Saddam were our "friends and allies." We supported them with intelligence, weapons and money. So whaddaya you want to bet that Pakistan and Saudi Arabia, our two closest muslim "allies" in the "war on terrorism," will be our enemies within a decade? But for now the Bush administration gives them intelligence, weapons and money, and defends these dictatorships like a defense attorney. Hell, a way better case could be made for invading either of our "allies" than can be made for invading Iraq.

Best: *A mellow day spent cragging near Mazama with old friends, some of whom I hadn't seen in years (several of which had never climbed). *Climbing a 5 pitch 5.10 on Beacon Rock with my younger brother and nephew in 40 mph wind. *Leading 18 pitches in a day (Apron/Squamish Buttress) *North Early Winter Spire, NW Corner and W Face. *Clipping the anchors on "the Coffin" in Utah. Worst: *Taking a 35+ foot whipper and ending up a few feet above the ground. *Pulling on gear, then kicking myself afterwards, thinking "I should have freed that or at least taken the fall trying!"

Yeah, the highway is open. It's been warm this week, and what little snow there was has mostly melted. There's only patchy snow up there, from none to a few inches.

I find my colostomy bag is always a conversation starter. Hang in the Stefan, get healed!

I find the flake to be the crux, but that's why it's classic--several different cruxes with different challenges and different ways to tackle them. So I'm curious, at the flake, you can do a straight lieback up the right side, or lieback and jam it a bit, or face climb up the flake itself, or take the left corner and use the crack on the left wall to bypass the lieback. Which do you guys usually do? Do you think the right lieback or the left corner is easier?

I heard a rumor that the Tooth may go free, but be careful--Cavey jealously gaurds his project and will rain insults and boulders down upon any hardman foolish enough to attempt to scoop him. But seriously, if you want a challenge, how bout trying to onsight all the cracks on midnight rock in a day? [ 11-18-2002, 12:07 PM: Message edited by: Uncle Tricky ]

rurp wrote: quote: I was referring specifically to DOGS! Sorry--my bad!

Toast, you'll find godzilla a bit more strenuous than orbit.

RURP wrote quote: "Dogs are like kids." True, true. Or, as my parents used to say, "kids are like dogs." I guess that's why as kids we had to sleep out in the back yard. My brother and I each had a nice kennel. When they got tired of hearing us fight, they would put those electric "no-bark" dog collars on us. I tell you what, we were the quietest, most well behaved kids around. But they were responsible parents. When they would go hiking, they would leash us to a tree near the car, so we didn't inadvertently crap in the wilderness or scare wildlife, as kids are apt to do. I wish the forest service would put the proceeds from the trail pass to good work and hire some folks to clean up all that deer and coyote shit littering the woods. And speaking of shitting in the woods, will somebody please teach those fucking bears how to use the porta-potties?

My dog thinks he can climb. My partner and I had D-town all to ourselves one spring day, so I let the hound run free below. He sat and ate blueberries off the bushes for a couple hours while we were climbing. As we rapped off Silent Running, the hound scrambled up the steep bushy section to the left. We were at the first belay, a full 150' pitch of 5.7 off the ground, and he was parreled with us, seperated only by a swath of easy friction. He had the sense not to cross the gap and die, instead downclimbing to meet us at the bottom. I trust my dog's instincts, and give him the freedom to be a dog. But I always try to be aware of the overall situation, how people will react to him, and respond accordingly. Sometimes that means leashing him, sometime it means leaving him at home.

I think next game they should suit up the Seahawks cheerleaders and give them a go. They couldn't do much worse. Now that's a game I'd pay to watch!

Go Seagals!