Fairweather

Climbed Pyramid Peak from Westside Road junction in Feb 1983. We "scooted" across the Tahoma Creek suspension bridge, which was jacked up at a 45 degree angle to prevent snow-loading, by hooking our snowshoe claws over the higher edge of the bridge decking and hanging on to the cable with our bare hands which froze. ...terrifying. Camped at Indian Henry's..it snowed 2 feet during the night. We summited the next morning in marginal weather. Kicked a large slab loose on the way down. The trip was certainly a "youthful learning experience" which I'm lucky I survived.

quote: Originally posted by Norman Clyde: Royal Basin ought to be a fine winter destination, with Deception and Fricaba being easily accessible ascents, though the valley has definite avalanche potential, especially into Surprise Basin just E. of Deception. The approach is 6 miles, as I recall, very steady slow incline the whole way, with a few old glacier steps at the top. I spoke to Olympic Mountaineering a few weeks back and they said the forest road is not always passable in winter, being unmaintained and sometimes snowy even at that low elevation (around 1000 feet I think). They suggested Deer Park as a good jumping off point. But I'd favor Constance myself. I climbed Fricaba a couple of years ago in early spring. On the decent we discovered the biggest slab-path I have ever seen. It started just below a sub-peak west of Fricaba and dumped toward Royal Basin. It was probably 10+ feet thick, 300 yards wide at the top, and slid well over a mile. It was only a day or 2 old. Snow blocks the size of small cars. It increased my respect for Olympic avalanche potential.

The Yashica you are probably refering to is the T4. It was just recently discontinued. It had a sharp lens (Contax T) that was sharp enough for slides. I'll have to disagree with the suggestion that the Olympus Stylus is a good choice. It's metering does not have any manual or automatic exposure compensation for shooting on bright snow in midday conditions. You will endup with a lot of underexposed (dark) photos. I own a LOT of cameras and here are my suggestions: 1) a used Olympus XA. (NOT an XA1 or any other variant.) Expect to pay about $125 for one in good shape. It weighs 8 1/2 oz. You can open 1 1/2 f-stops with a switch on the bottom. 2) The Yashica T4...if you can still find one. $159, weighs about 7 oz. My favorite point and shoot is my Ricoh GR1. Sharp lens, but kind of pricey.

quote: Originally posted by epb: OH yeah (Fairweather)...sounds like your just making excuses to justify you lazy ass lifestyle. Classic. Enviromentalist are all radicals...waaaah. Rather than discredit the movement that exists, why not keep the movement you once supported alive (or revive it)? Next to the South Koreans and Japaneese, Americans work more hours per week than any other citizens on Earth. Maybe it's the rest of the world that is lazy? Just a thought. "The movement" I once supported was hijacked by radicals. (like you?) It now consists of fear mongering, junk mailers, Hollywood whiners and lobbyists who rely on questionable (the lynx study, a case in point) science and twisted or anecdotal reasoning.

quote: Originally posted by Dru: "The Reagan years were a disaster for our forests, cutting and shipping raw logs overseas." USA is threatening Canada right now cause you want us to ship you raw logs....... you gonna protest that one too Fairweather? I don't vote in Canada. I'm an American If you don't like the policies of your government, vote for change. Don't cry to me.

quote: Originally posted by AlpineK: Right on SS. I couldn't agree with you more. Whoever those scientists were they sure fucked up. By falsifying there data they end up helping the side they were trying to restrict. Just look at Fairweathers reaction. Actually, I too agree with ss. I would lay down in front of any bulldozer that tried to violate a national park or wilderness area. During the 70's and 80's I WAS an "environmentalist"...The Reagan years were a disaster for our forests, cutting and shipping raw logs overseas. Then the 90's came and "environmentalists" began to turn on their core supporters...like me. "Restricted access"; "man as the enemy of nature"; "solitude"; "let nature take the roads and trails back"....they lost my support because they tried/are trying to lock me out. I do not accept that recreation is a significant cause of environmental degredation. The past 10 years they have pissed me off so badly that I look upon anything they say or claim as a junk-science-LIE. The lynx study is the tip of the iceberg, I suspect.

AlpineK and nolanr, Does our nation's standard of life mean you'll be giving up your car soon? How 'bout your home and property? Your climbing trips? Flying? Your gear? Your computer?...I didn't think so. Do you really think lowering OUR standard of living would help others around the world? Sure there are still people trashing the environment, but great progress is being made. It is not nearly as bad as "they" would have us believe. I suggest you read "The Skeptical Environmentalist" by Bjorn Lomborg. (a Dane) Environmentalists tend to be hypocrites, BIG TIME...and their old Volkswagen Micro Buses probably put more hydrocarbons into the air than a Chevy Suburban!

Great Story!! Thanks for the info s.s. It only affirms my belief that the environmental movement will go to any legnths to "have their way". Lies, bogus science, fear mongering, terrorism, and a general hatred of American style freedom are all their trademarks. I believe many of them, including some gov't "scientists" simply find environmentalism a convenient way to impose their socialism on our country.

Wy'East route is a great winter climb if snow conditions are stable. The final chimney is a bit steep and exposed but the rest of the route is fairly easy. Leuthold is another good winter climb. I haven't done Sandy Glacier Headwall, but I've heard it can be a good winter climb too.

thinking about getting back into ski mountaineering, but I'm not quite ready to buy all new gear. Has anyone tried the Backcountry Access bindings that work with your alpine skis/bindings? I know they work with either alpine ski OR mountaineering boots. Any thoughts?

The Fox Hole army surplus store in Tacoma has NEW 3-ply "Gore Tex" (the real stuff) parkas and pants for $149 and $99. They are seam sealed, pit zips, side zip (partial) pants, butt re-enforced pants, nice quality stuff. Only one choice of color: cammo! I'm tired of trashing the butt in the $200 wind pants I buy when I glissade, so I'm going to give the pants a try!

Done both East and North ridges in winter. The East is considerably easier....two pitches plus easy unroped before and after. The steepest part of this climb is up a large pillar which seems to me somewhat detached. I suspect it will fall away someday and I wouldn't want to be huggin it when it goes....just my read; maybe I'm way off.

Scott, While I detest the "environmental extremists", and this guy who repremanded you is probably one of them, not cutting switchbacks is very "101"...you just don't do it. Regarding the WTA....they are not, as their name implies a "trails" organization. They have of late become just another environmental group. A TRAILS organization would not support locking hikers out of The Middle Fork of the Snoqualmie by lobbying to shut down the road. Additionally, reports they feel are "inappropriate" are censored by their webmaster.

Scott, While I detest the "environmental extremists", and this guy who repremanded you is probably one of them, not cutting switchbacks is very "101"...you just don't do it. Regarding the WTA....they are not, as their name implies a "trails" organization. They have of late become just another environmental group. A TRAILS organization would not support locking hikers out of The Middle Fork of the Snoqualmie by lobbying to shut down the road. Additionally, reports they feel are "inappropriate" are censored by their webmaster.

Actually, the Wilderness boundary starts up by Crater Rock. The rest of the climb is just regular FS land....which begs the question, how can they regulate from the parking lot at Timberline? Will they post a ranger at the boundary? Will they try to physically stop someone from proceeding if they have already climbed 4000 feet and have only 1000 to go?

quote: Originally posted by Maurice: What is going on down at Mt Hood? If the manager of Mt Hood Ntl Forest and "Wilderness Watch" have their way, Mt Hood's South Climb will be on a permit basis with climbers limited to 25 individuals per day. This decision is to be based not on environmental problems, but rather the "solitude" provisions in The Wilderness Act which some extremists feel are being violated on the south side of Hood. This will force many lesser experienced climbers on to harder routes where they will no doubt run into trouble. Climbing on Mount Hood is also well established. Perhaps over 100,000 have climbed it since the end of the 19th century. I for one, will not comply if this rule is enacted.

Known as a great climber's camera. Mechanical shutter, good for cold weather climbs. Body only, $175.

Just curious. I've been tossing around "alternative access" to Mt. Rainier in the event that they someday try to lock out, or severely limit climbing access. I've hiked into the park from the Lake Christine trailhead and think this would be a good way--over Gobblers Knob, down to Lk George-- to access Tahoma Glacier or any of the other west side routes. I've also looked at some of the Champion Intl. land as a possible access to the Northwest side. On the east, I've accessed Grand Park from FS road 73, but this has little climbing access value. Does anyone out there have any other "clandestine access" ideas re: MRNP? Maybe I'm being paranoid, but just look at what is going on down at Mount Hood.

W, Although I disagree on your finer points, your opinions sound well thought out. I should not have cast such a wide net with my condemnation. I'll save that for Sexual Chocolate: I guess, Ms. Chocolate we can't all be as enlightened as you perceive yourself to be. Maybe we're just not as evolved as you. Or maybe we're just all part of the "great unwashed", not even aware of the higher plane upon which you exist. Maybe those of us who desire to defend ourselves and our great country and give in to our animal aggression and self preservation instincts will one day find ourselves shipped off in rail cars to some gulag by you and your ilk. Do ya think? Yes, a well earned personal attack. But then it was your "trolling" that started this "spray" thread...careful what you wish for.

quote: Originally posted by mountainguy01: Fairweather, I see in a great deal of your posts that you talk a lot about college campuses. Where do you get these "twisted statistics" that the majority of college campuses are these liberal state of minds. Do colleges not make us one of the most educated nations in the world, and would we be as free without these higher institutions of education? If Evergreen or Western always enters your mind, there are not just liberal people on campuses. If these thoughts come from the media, of course they are going to show the "good" stuff people want to hear even if it is a minute part of a college campus, which most of the time it is. You hear about the anti-war protest, but do you hear about the pro-war rallies? Don't mean to come down so hard on colleges...you are right, they ARE a cornerstone of our free society. However there is a vocal minority at some universities that gets covered my the media and, unfortunately the stereotype is cast. Most of these "idealists" will go out into the real world and become Joe Citizen. Some will hang on to the fringe. The liberal and conservative media both have a stake in reporting this campus unrest. For the liberals it harkens back to their Vietnam protest college days. Many journalists came of age during this period. For the conservatives it is a means by which they can point out their perceived shortcomings in the American ed system. While I'll admit to a conservative bias, I do see the greater good in the university system as well. Now; tell me more about this pro-war demonstration??!! At WWU?

W, glad to hear you're not a lefty or a liberal. Actually, I'm quite happy with the progress made in this world. Despite the doom and gloom crowd's twisted statistics, more people are living a better life on this planet than at any time in history. Sure, we could do better, but is that our (USA) sole responsibility? I say stop blaming the USA for all the ills in this world. Frankly, I couldn't give a rip about the grievances of Muslims, "Paestinians", the Arab world in general. While I am interested in improving the living standards of those in other countries, I am not interested if it means lowering mine. Flame away! It won't change my mind one bit. When I hear second guessing babble in the media, on college campuses,and yours, I get a bit upset. Some of the "lets just step back and all take a deep breath" crowd that post here remind me of a climber that makes the decision to jump a crevasse, but just as they start their lunge they hesitate, and all is lost. Fortunately the vast majority of the citizens in this country aren't interested in any "hesitation" either.

mtnranger, don't let the second-guessers on this site like "Sexual Chocolate", or "W" get you down! As a climber for over 20 years it has been exasperating being associated in any way with the "university hippie, WTO protester, eco freak" stereotype that is justifiably out there amongst the general public. I'm so fed up with these commie-idealists that I am no longer willing to overlook their peutred beliefs when selecting climbing partners. I have climbed with SF personnel on many occasions and always find their company on a climb far superior to that of some babbling, whining poly-sci kook. I salute your dedication to our (yes, GREAT!) country and wish you success and a safe return should you be sent to fight. God's speed mtn ranger!

Zenolith, I believe what Bush said was something to the effect, "ridding the world of these evil do'ers". When you write that he is claiming an attempt to "rid the world of evil" you are grossly misrepresenting and misquoting what our pres. has said to create agnst and gain others sympathy for your bias. As for HIS "aimless" life.....don't YOU live in Eugene?

I can't think of any case where I wholeheartedly disagree with our country's foreign policy. Except maybe in Kosovo where we have stepped into a millenium old conflict. We are right on track here. We were ATTACKED and have every right to root out our enemies. If some "innocents" are killed in the process that is regrettable...but not to the point where we should falter in our resolve. After all, did we worry about killing only NAZI government officials when we fire bombed Dresden and killed (by some estimates) 140,000? War DOES solve problems. By today's university-snotnose brat standards, we would have let Hitler continue on in the name of "peace". (While I support students right to protest, I firmly believe that tax payer supported, tenured professors who encourage subversion should be fired...NOW. We send our kids to universities to be educated, not brainwashed!) FYI Sex Choc...fighting communism in Korea, Vietnam, Nicaragua, Costa Rica, El Salvador and everywhere else was, as Ronald Regan said, "a noble cause". I believe our support of Isreal is also a noble cause. They are our friends, and you stand by your friends...something a liberal probably would not understand. Palestine, defined as a country with borders, never existed. Arafat was offered his dream of statehood less than two years ago...he turned it down. Let's not worry about what "they" think of us. Showing weakness now would be suicide. Let's just do what has to be done.

My problem with cigarette smokers: They seem to think the whole world is their freakin' ashtray! My problem with pot smokers: They're usually nice, but not very bright...and because of their decreased lung capacity, they are usually not in the best cardiovascular shape.