Pencil_Pusher

Great TR, CascadeClimber. Good photos too and the beta will be great for anyone else that happens upon it. Same with the Ice Cliff trip.

Retro, Did you ask for the bolter's identities prior to chopping? Did I miss that post? Yeah, I didn't think so. Instead it was vigilante justice. Would it have been more appropriate to question them first as in: ---------------------------------- New Post DDD Retro> "What the f_in hell, who put those bolts up there?" or "Duuude, that's a crock of shit, who put those bolts up there?" "If nobody answers we're going to chop them." ----------------------------------- ?????? Instead it was shoot first, ask questions later. Granted, the bolters didn't do the same for the bolting. However, and maybe I'm in the minority here, some folks don't have computers. I'm only typing now because I'm stuck behind a computer all day at work. At home I have neither a computer nor a TV and don't miss or want either. Assuming they do have computers though, it would've been a helluva lot more civilized to push the topic first, then announce you're going to chop, and then chop. I'd guess the reason you didn't say you were going to chop beforehand was because YOU WERE JUST AS CHICKENSHIT AS THE BOLTERS WERE. So next time y'all decide to chop, how about you push the info here, hear everybody hem and haw, and then ANNOUNCE you're going to chop? Same goes with the bolters. And if you can't do that, how can you expect the bolters to? To quote another poster, a classic line I enjoy re-reading from him "We'll see who's talking smack now bitch."

Wow, sounds like one helluva trip. Glad to hear all went well. It's amazing how significantly things changed in two weeks. The folks that did it then described it nothing like you did. Good job.

Heck yeah, that's alot easier to say. That's what I'll be calling it then. Maybe add a little mystery to it...

Retro, If you want to make this personal, that's fine. Send a PM. To argue with every Tom, Dick and Harry that doesn't appreciate your bullshit shows just how willing you are to hear the bolter's story. I guess it's pull "warm and fuzzy" with a crowbar first, ask questions later, huh? No shit they don't step forward in front of a firing squad. They're all guilty as sin according to you, so it really wouldn't be YOU LISTENING TO THEM, now would it? Wannabe experts all over the damn place. [This message has been edited by Pencil Pusher (edited 07-23-2001).]

It's even funnier that 60 years of piton bashing is left out of this "at one with nature" attitude.

Leave the rope at home if you're headed up the walk-ups. Light scrambling at best (worst, depending on your view) but both routes can be done in your jogging shoes. Plenty of running water for 7, out of 6000ft camp follow trail to stream crossing with disappearing footpath going upstream and then take that (main trail heads towards Icicle Lake) once up on top of hump (big one, you'll see it) traverse on scree to left shoulder on up. Maude was drier for ascent and beats me where the heck the route is. We did hear from a group not to follow the cairns and this is true a little after you cross this big ravine with yellow/orange dirt. Either go up towards shoulder (8100+ feet) once reaching other side of ditch or follow cairns to path going under 25 foot tall cliff band. Then hang a left up big scree gully. We scrambled a bit when we went to the right of the big scree gully and even coming down didn't know where the route was. Fast descent skiing on scree. Both routes were three hours each from camp unless you're CascadeClimber. The route descriptions I've given were because we spent a significant amount of time discussing such for each climb and met two climbers coming off wrong finger of Jack, looking for actual summit.

Nicely said, Chuck.

Hey, I flail too. I try not to mention numbers but inevitably they find their way out. Fact is, I've only been doing this roped shit for a year and a half and am still quite the beginner. That said, caveman can still climb better than me so he's still an asshole.

I served in the Army Reserve for all of three or four months. They were too hardcore for me, wanted me to get a haircut and all. Anyone know where I can get a key to the impact area?

Campmor sells a damn book bag made by Jansport, $60. The thing is less than two pounds and I've used it for bivy/climb gear to Prusik, Sherpa/Stuart, and Adams so far. KISS

I like the Arnold Schwarzenegger approach. That, like this, seems anal enough. "Ahhch...Meower bahdee phat. Eye mussst ddreenk meower watter und exthersize fure lahnger tyem."

Why not... I think Retro's an asshole who's lack of diplomacy is going to keep this shit going to the point Govt passes another damn law. Pretty soon we won't even be able to scratch our asses legally. I won't stand on either side, but I do think this is far from over and chopping with arrogance is only going to put more bolts up there. As who ever said, it'll be the rock that loses in this bolt/chop war.

Alpine Tom, Wasn't my story. That was Bronco taking Judd, from what I recall. "I... did not... inhale."

The funny thing is, what the heck does this all matter, anyway? Do whatever suits your fancy, but weighing and fat % is for the birds. Common sense prevails.

It's nice to see there's plenty of folks in not too great shape that can lead 5.9 stuff. Yes, I'm lazy.

The website reminded me of Amway.

Razor blade instead of knife. First Aid? What can you REALLY do anyway??? Think about it. Screw sterilized, it won't be anyway out there. Bandaids, Ace bandage, and Aleve. Jansport sells a damn book bag weighing under two pounds at Campmor. Thing costs $60. I've used it for climb/bivys of Prusik, Sherpa/Stuart, and Adams north side. All of this is for an objective with comfort being left at the car. Being in shape would help too. If hiking close to water sources, don't carry water. Waterproof socks double as mitts. 9.6 rope, wired biners, tri-cams instead of cams. Snow Peak Giga Power stove weighs 3.5 ounces and comes with auto-igniter. Fuel weighs as little as 4 ounces, 22 biggest I think. Beyond that, start dolling out the money. When are they gonna come out with the titanium helmet that you can cook/melt in too?

Wil, It's true, Caveman is an asshole. A big asshole too from what I've heard. He probably climbs better than me so I guess he's even more of an asshole.

A private message wouldn't suffice, Dan?

Fast and light whiner... gimme some sugar, baby.

Probably got the spelling wrong, but wondering if others have climbed this, how long it took and what gear you used/needed? Also if there's other climbs within that 5.7 and under rating around the area that are good climbing? Wired Knut- Keep it up and we'll go for Lost Arrow Spire , nimwit.

Anyone know current conditions for this? [This message has been edited by Pencil Pusher (edited 07-17-2001).]

Turtle, we did the route on Saturday. We first saw two rocks go whizzing down the route before we got on it. One rock while on route. Hey, if you followed the tracks from the glacier to the summit, did you see that hole by the wand with yellow tape, about a quarter mile from the summit? That was Mr. Crevasse saying hello to Mr. Pencil Pusher.

I mistakingly thought caving was all fun and games too. Fulford Cave by Eagle, CO. First time didn't bring a helmet and got lost. Wandered aimlessly for a while before down climbing 4th to 5th shit to reach Boy Scout group below. Second time brought a helmet and got lost, by chance found the way out. Third time brought little "bread crumbs" and flashlight went dead... try finding your damned way out holding a friggin light stick in one hand. It was better than nothing, but not by much. You can turn off your light and wait 20 minutes and you still can't see your hand two inches in front of your face. My only advice is that every damn thing looks the same in there so do something about it. Good batteries and a secondary light that uses the same type of batteries. Oh, bring a woman too.