MtnHigh

My dad has a farm northwest of Green Bay. I'll call him tonight and ask him wants it like living next to a 200 mile erection.

Reese's Fast Break

Woman should eat more bananas for the enjoyment of men

Shred come on down to ole downtown. The stories are better and the drink flows faster in when you're around.

Should be another Bowl game blow out tonight....or just a bowl blow out. Either way the Canes rule and PDX climbers rock.

Yo Sketch chill. Park it back in the barn. As the Brothers said above, ain't nothing safe to climb on that hill in these conditions. All the junkies are jonesin. You're not alone in this dilemma. To ease the pain take continuous bong hits interspersed by copious amounts of alcohol. I'll be at Paddy's downtown after work taking my medicine. Stop by.

I got some hot pics of a sweet little hottie that I dated earlier in the year while vacationing in Vegas. Will that get me in the door???

Anyone been out to shred up all this white stuff that's falling? The climbing conditions may suck, but the skiing conditions are prime.

I made it home with no law altercations. It's a long drive no matter how many brews you got in ya. Bringing it to the top for all the daytime posters to tear up. Night all.

Xmas shopped on Sat. What a joy, laping parking lots in search of a slot and waiting in long check out lines. Put the tree up tonight. In addition to the usual bulbs an lights, my son and I decorated it with ice screws, biners, wired nuts and prussik cord. Turned out looking great.

12/15: The pics are not being displayed because Pat's Web site is down. Any system admins out there that work for beer?

Lets do this tomorrow night. Great excuse to get out of xmas shopping with the little lady and it's raining so nobody is gonna miss any climbing. Kennedy is too packed on Fridays. It would be hard to get a big table. Someone mentioned Horse Brass. They got hard liquor right?

On the 12 days of Christmas my true love gave to me.... 12 Trasks a spraying 11 Skiers skiing 10 Stripers striping 9 Climbers climbing 8 Feet a snowing 7 Cams a camming 6 Bolts a clipping 5 Frosty Beers 4 Alpine tools 3 Pickets 2 First Ascents And a summit of Nanga Parbat Happy Holidays Gang

Conservatives are so fucking stupid. They bitch because of the taxes they pay, but at the same time they work their asses off at their jobs. Quit your job and your tax burden vanishes. This way you can devote more time to climbing and leaching from your friends. Rob, where is that free keg gonna be?

Inspired by Crackman’s exploits and documentation the previous week... we stumbling out of the smoke filled van at Cloud Cap at 3:30am. Five minutes out of the parking lot, we were lost in the dark woods. Where the hell is that f'in trail. What initially appeared to be a party of blundering fools, floundering about the woods, amazingly completed a climb that will be long remembered. Drew (Avatarless), Shredmaximus and I climbed the Hood's North Face left gully on Saturday 12/7. Climbing conditions on the route were very good. Ice has formed over all the steps and was good for the most part, but thin in places. The crux of the route is at the very start, negotiating the shrund and climbing the first step. Once you are in the gully above the first step, the climbing difficulty eases off. After descending onto the Elliot from the moraine trail, stay on the far left of the glacier to avoid the majority of the crevasses and ice falls. We opted instead to take a more direct line in the dark through the ice fall. A one point the stitching on my water bottle holder ripped out, sending it and a full bottle of cool-aid drink into a crevasse. I could see the bottle and holder at the crevasse bottom, so I sank a screw and down climbed on belay into the crevasse to retrieve the gear. I didn't want to leave junk on the mountain or go thirsty on the climb. At the base of the route is the shrund. Cross it on the right margin, traverse left then up steep snow and ice leading to the first step. Exposure to the open shrund directly below is unnerving, but the firm snow and good ice help settle the nerves. The first step is a vertical ice finger perhaps 60' tall, rimed by rock on either side. Neither one of us had the balls to lead the ice pitch. However, we were determined to climb the route, so we opted for something even more ridiculous. We climbed the rock bordering the right side of the ice finger. The lower section of the rock was a rotten pile of shit covered in snow or thin ice. A real pucker fest. The rotten rock gave way to a section of low 5th class rock of excellent quality, a rare discovery on Hood. Above the first step, the angle of the gully eases off for about 500 vertical feet. Surprisingly, there is abundant snow in the gully. Interspersed in this section of the gully are four near vertical, short ice steps, ranging from 5-15' tall. Good ice was to be had. Above the ice steps the gulley widens to the steep upper slopes of the face. The upper slopes had hard pack snow, providing excellent kick step medium. For 8+ hours we had climbed in early morning darkness and the shaded gulley. Once on the summit, the warmth of the mid day sun under windless skies recharged our depleted batteries. It was tempting to lie there in the sun all afternoon. Off the summit we descended the West chute to the saddle of the Hog's Back. The upper south side slopes are nearly barren of snow and ice. The Pearly Gates and the upper Hog's Back looked really thin from the saddle. A lot of dirt and rock is covering the surface. The East Rim gulleys looked like dirt chutes and the south side shrund is a big as you'll ever see it. Below Crater Rock, the sun softened snow provided glissading dreams down to Timberline where the rewards of beer and snacks awaited our arrival. This was my first climb with Pat and we pulled off a good one. Thanks Pat and Drew More pictures: Hood N Face Pics

She's looking better everyday. Crackman, Thanks for the photo.

quote: Originally posted by Terminal Gravity: Hey Pete, Nice TR. It was goood to chat with you guys as we crossed paths. I look forward to bumping into you again sometime. Maybe we could compare bruises on our shoulders. - steve PS How windy was it at the top? If we start comparing body parts the Pub Club gang might get the wrong impression. We will never get anyone to share a tent with us. About the winds....Catabatic winds hit us all day long. They were the strongest between 8500' - 10000'. A couple of them were so strong that we had to stop moving, quickly sink an axe and stay put until it subsided.

You guys are a demanding bunch. So where's the TR MtHigh? Yeah! what kind of condition was Leutholds in? Good ice...ANY ice? Ran into the Yocum boys TG and Tex on the Reid glacier Sat morning. They had just gotten off Yocum while Drew and I were just heading in. Drew and I were hoping to climb something in the Reid HW, but it looked too thin up there. We headed up Leuthold. About 1/3 of the way up we took a gulley to the left of Leuthold. The gully offered some moderately steep ground on hard snow or ice. The gulley skirted just below Yocum and finally terminated at a headwall. For a while the dreadful thought of backing down the gully rattled my brain. However, we were able to descend steep snow/ice onto the upper Leuthold and complete the climb. Overall, conditions were excellent. Rock hard snow and ice. In sections it was a bit thin, but very do-able. The descent down the Hogs back was scarry as hell. There was 30' of 1/4" 45 degree ice in the Pearly Gates and the upper Hogs back was rock hard. Backing down it was fraying my already thin nerves. While backing down the Hog a big chuck of ice hit my shoulder. I figured the mountain was saying "get the hell off of me you looser". The berg cutting across the Hog is a 25' over hanging wall. You can skirt it on either side. The West Crater route would be a better descent option right now. Pete

For all the REI whiners out there this is why I occasionally shop there: - Marmot Ice Gloves $60 - Stinger picks for 7 bucks each It boils down to simple economics. I'll conduct business with a reputable establishment that offers discounted services or products. However, if an establishment has totally sold their soul to the dark side then I'll shop elsewhere.

The Good: - Hood N Face: Nice Ice great exposure - Jefferson Jeff Park Gl: Great alpine route - Denali WB: Not the objective but a great experience - Triumph NE Ridge: Gotta love alpine rock - Hood E Rim Gulleys: Did all 4 in winter ice condition The Ugly: - Hood Sandy Gl HW: Got blown off the mountain - Stuart W Ridge: Summited but was 3 finger tips from death - Spending too much time watching sports on TV

Instead of "Looking for climbing partner, I drink beer." Try this: "Looking for climbing partner, I'll buy the beer." Much more effective

I'd like to thank all my fellow PDX pub hounds for contributing to my headache this morning. On the bright side I'll get nothing accomplished at work this morning.

Isn't the Drip that place on MLK were all the homeless people hang out waiting for the soup kitchen to open?

quote: Originally posted by rbw1966: I feel your pain. At one point on the descent I fell over because I thought I was going forward when in fact I was actually going backward. Tres weird. Several times I thought I was still moving then would look down and see I was in the same spot. Thats what I get for getting froggy to go skiing. You sure it didn't have something to do with that 5th of JD you were packin'

Who's up for some ice play Sunday on the Elliot?