MtnHigh

It's gonna be even more fuzzy Friday morning.

If you're talking about the gulleys above the Kitchen the steeper gulley, variation 1C in Oregon High, might be be the best bet. Simply because much of the snow from Thur/Fri would have sluffed off by now.

I'm heading up Hood on Sunday, but probably not the SS route. I'm throwing the dice that conditions will be OK elsewhere on the mountain. The NRCS Mt. Hood station reports that 6-7" of snow fell on Thur and Fri. The current weather report claims that another 1-2" will fall tonight through Saturday. This information tells me that not enough snow fell to worry about SS conditions. But as always, you need to access conditions for youself.

If you stay in standard track up to the Hogsback (east side of Crater Rock) there has never been a recorded avi on those slopes.

Pay Up All You Suckers

Whenever you experience a major negative in a town, it's for that place no matter what people say about it. Eight years ago while moving cross country the U-Haul I was driving with all my crap in it plus my truck on a trailer were stolen from a Quality Inn parking lot. Luckily I snuck my dog into the room the evening before.

Ptarmigan Ridge is high on the tick list and I've been recently discussing the logistics of the climb with my climbing parters. Our consensus..... Early season: Approach via WR during the early season when driving to Mowich lake is not possible. Conditions crossing the Carbon would be much better than later in the summer. Only one vehicle is needed. It might take two days to get to 10,300' bivy spot. Mid/Late Season: Start at Mowich lake and leave a second vehicle at WR.

The thought crosses my mind all the time. The guy needs an audience, so by now he's probably found a new forum and groupies.

Does your project need a few old tires and some shit furniture.

Iain = Mt. Hood Guardian Angel

This tread needs to get back to the Free Beer Variation Great coinage Gadow.

We camped up the the Bridge Creek road Sat night. Within 10 minutes my buddy had a tick on him.

Drew and I did the Free Beer variation last year. However, we did it . as planned, looking for something new on the mountain. The keg was empty on our ascent. Had to run all the way down to T-line to get our fill.

Well said. Oh yah, nice climb Doug.

We were keeping an eye on you guys once we got back to Muir. After a while we saw you descending the upper Ingram and then decided to head down. It must have been unconfortably warm on the descent. It was getting warm when we descended the lower mountain around 10am.

Climb: Rainier-Gib Ledges (yet another) Date of Climb: 4/5/2004 Trip Report: It turned out to be a weekend of climbing plans in continual flux. Ivan, Smokeshow and I planned on climbing the Nisqually Ice Fall on Sun/Mon. Smokeshow bailed before leaving his apartment, so Ivan and I left town Sunday morning, debating alternative Rainier routes. Shortly after arriving at Muir I met Girlclimber. She had taken up pernament residence in the hut (she had been there since Friday). Girlclimber and Skyclimb climbed the Ledges to the top of Gibralter on Saturday, but decended from there due to whiteout conditions. Within minutes after just meeting her I invited her to climb with us. Without hesitation she expressed interest. While waiting for Ivan at Muir, Winter, Jen and Jessica arrived from their Ingram climb. Nice climb guys. The new plan was to climb the Ledges in the morning. Alergies were putting the kabash on Ivan. He opted out early Monday morning as we packed for the climb. So what started out as a climb of the Nisqually with Ivan and Smokeshow, turned into a Ledges climb with Girlclimber. The Ledges were in good shape, but are nearing their end for this season. In the Ledges proper snow cover predominates, but it's thin in sections and none existant in others. The upper chute is a kick stepping workout. The weather was great, some high cloud cover, no wind, 10 degrees at the summit. Congratulations to Girlclimber on completing the route on her third attempt. It was great climbing with you. She rocks on the mountain. Photos are compliments of Girlclimber Just above Gibralter Little T and the long awaited sunrise Looking down at the top of Gibralter, the BeeHive (tower on the ridge) and Muir (just left of the Beehive Sunrise at 13,000' Looking south, Adams and the Goats in the background, Tatoosh's in the forground. Low elevation clouds moved in shortly after sunrise The snow bridge at about 13,200' is about to collape. Future climbs will have to skirt it to the left Gear Notes: The usual glacier travel grab bag Approach Notes: The Muir snow field is in prime skiing condition

I'm going to write a TR after getting pics from girlclimber.

If you start driving pins and leaving scars in the local basalt routes you'll beg to be shot to quickly end your misery. Practice clean aid on the standard routes, but go find a pile of choss for the pins.

Is this still on for Thursday???

Just fill your pack with water jugs and bottles. It doesn't much matter what you hike, as long as you are gaining lots of elevation with a heavy pack. It will put a wupin' on your candy ass. And don't forget to have a cold six pack waiting in the truck.

Board the Nisqually Ice Fall. It offers a mile of jumps, some are 80+ high. Just set up the camera crews at the jump bases and WM will be calling in no time.

On the traverse between the Hog and Crater Rock on the descent I experienced the same thing. The slope settled giving off the tell tale 'wump' sound. I was already running down the hill and after hearing this I was not going to break my stride to analyse the snow pack. This was at 1pm. Just down the trail there were 8-10 folks coming up in 3 groups. I told one person in each group about the settling. To my surprise nobody gave any concern. wtf? I've never heard of an avi on that slope and have never seen avi debris there either. My guess is that avi conditions would have to be off the chart for that slope to actually slide. Skiing the Palmer Gl was awesome. The wind pack was softened just right.

There was an article in the Bellingham paper about it. It was 7-8 years ago. There were 4 or 5 climbers and a driver. They started on Hood and worked their way north, finishing on Baker, climbing the dog routes. That's all I know about it.

A few years back a group climbed Hood, Adams, St. Helen's, Rainier and Baker in two days. They had a driver for the van to catch some between climbs. It was a fund raiser for some notable cause.

Great TR Shred will be very interested in this beta for his much anticipated book, Selected Choss Climbs in Oregon