Downhill

Very nice - thanks for the post. I'd like to get a quality print of this to frame for my office.

Sobo and Freeman - thanks for the tips good reading on the TT forum too - searches turned up lots of good info (careful sifting required) - next time: search first, post after. DH

Sobo, Thanks for the suggestion - frankly the reason I didn't search first was because I never thought of it - stupid me (note the avitar). Thanks too for your rant retract - kept me from replying something along the lines of having a life of work, family, skiing, climbing, etc. that detracts me from making 1,100 posts on a bb. - just flippin' ya shit - I do appreciate your tip!

Need to upgrade to a new avi beeper. My purpose will be 99% for backcountry skiing. Does anyone care to share your opinions, experience or recommendations regarding the following or others: Backcountry Access Tracker - DTS Ortovox F-1 Mammut Barryvox TIA DH

Not too sure you're going to find a new tube receiver but if you want to go without the radio section both Creek and Musical Fidelity both make good, affordable tube integrated amps for modest power needs. You can also post to the newsgroups listed under rec.audio

Bring it on

Spew hits the mainstream - check out the front page of today's Wall Street Journal. Says that bolts are put there by "less-fastidious new-schoolers" to make hard climbs easier. I agree, they they make nice mono-digit handholds. DH

>Is Kit the man so many years ago that would use his 357 Python to shoot slings off of the Lower Town Wall? < I don't believe that he owned a python at the time that story originated - I think it was an M-1, a better option given the choice.

Is anyone participating in a local organized effort to oppose/terminate this "trial" - or, if not, aware of such a effort? Any national groups? Glen - Anything more From Cantwell? has anyone contacted P. Murray's office? DH

I'd prefer the chairlift if it went all the way to the top.

Alas, I long for the day when I was a "Youthful Marijuana Victim"

19 to 46 [ 05-16-2002, 10:19 AM: Message edited by: Downhill ]

ergh [ 05-16-2002, 10:15 AM: Message edited by: Downhill ]

The Ahwahnee Lodge is nice. But @ $366/night they can't guaranty in advance you'll get a room with a view of LA Falls. camping at the Ahwahnee

Before pipe bombs became de rigueur I remember tortillas (soft not crispy)being used on wall climbs - as both an alternative for TP as well a "delivery vehicle" for material removal and relocation. Right sporting. Maybe this how ultimate frisbee started.

I can confirm what Forrest describes as the way through the "impasse". Following the trough to its highpoint as it merges in to the face of Whatcom peak I found the same ledge system (low 5th). I 3rd-classed across but couldn't find a nut placement and there were no fixed pins at that time. But it was too much for my wife, who has little experience with exposure and she wasn't able to follow. We ended up going down and around - not recommended. I would think about taking a couple KB just in case. [ 05-07-2002, 04:43 PM: Message edited by: Downhill ]

good point - albeit it's been awhile, there used to be plenty of slower parties on the regular route aiding and taking several days - it all has to go somewhere. Is it okay to shit down a route cause you're free climbing but not okay if aiding?

Ok, this time I am Downhill (who gave that DB my password?). Anyway, I'll add my 4 cents to DB's advise.... Bolts & rivets: shouldn't be a problem. even without parties attempting it free, the route gets done enough that everything should be updated well enough. Clean??: I've heard that it goes clean but if any of the fixed pins have been bootied, you're hosed unless you can fidget a widget in to a pin scar - but that won't help you if the RURPS are missing from P-11 as noted above. I'd agree with DB's selection and add a RURP (maybe Todd replaced those with bolts??). Chimneys: The crescent crack is a stuff-fest (fix 4 and haul to the ledge as DB says to avoid this)but those higher (between Grand Terrace and Big Sandy) tend to be more the stemming variety rather than squeeze/stuff affairs. Season: DB and I did it that last week in May and it was perfect. Approach: going up from below through the slabs is much quicker than around but you might want to scout it without bags if unfamiliar (you've done the reg NW so you probably know this). Ledges: Grand Terrace is fine unless you're sharing with too many others - should accomodate 4+. The last pitch or two to Big Sandy had a bit of shit on it but you will probably be able to avoid it - wasn't bad at all and that was before pipe bombs. It's a great line - you can see your bivi site at the base directly between your feet for 20 pitches. Have fun, DH

a great route.take some pins,a few knife blades, baby angles,and 3/4" angles.Probably leave the bolts at home.Fix the first 4 pitches off the ground due to difficult hauling thru the crescent crack.The crack to the left of the of the original first pitch is a better option.also the pitch leading to big sandy ledge is unpleasent but easy. Just cruise thru holding your nose and take some handy wipes.Great camping at the base of the route with spring water a few feet away.Also take the direct approch to the NW face,a much better way to go.Have a great adventure,this can be a good time to do the route.Regards,D.B.,NOT DOWNHILL.

Can Ray beat Kit?

quote: Originally posted by telemarker:[QB]Ouch! Crusty skier!? Damn.......QB] No no....I said "Curtsy" not Crusty. You know as in bow, genuflect or kneel. I didn't mean to imply that you're not macho - afterall, you're from wenatchee! [ 03-22-2002: Message edited by: Downhill ]

I think what Curtsy-skier, er, I mean Telemarker said that he was going to be climbing mostly in places like the Icicle and crags, so don’t think weight’s a big consideration. If I’m short on dough and can’t have 2 of everything, I’d prefer a different make for my dupe set rather than 2 sets of the same. Like a set of Wild Country + a set of BD over two sets of BD. I like them both at different times for different placements. Then again if you just stay indoors and climb you don’t need any of this shit and you’ll have more beer money

If someone carries my pack and my pasty-white butt to the top of Buckner I’ll do the north face in a plastic saucer. Incidentally, about 15 years ago, I tried to coax several helicopter outfits to deposit a partner me in the Park for a similar winter project. In addition to the deterrent of committing a Federal offense, none were interested for business reasons either. As one operator put it, “I bill $50,000 in work for the Park Service every year. Why would I want to jeopardize all of that for a dirtbag climber and $500?”

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