Downhill

quote: Originally posted by mattp: .....When I took the picture, I was standing on the cornice directly above the throat of the top of the couloir, and my buddy KJ was looking at where we were about to drop in, about 30 yards west, where the cornice was .... I gotcha. I remember the top as being a narrow chute for 25' or so before opening out - much tighter than the broader slope in your picture. You were probably standing right at the spot I had in mind when you took the picture. My apologizes – like I said, my opinions are worth what you pay for ‘em.

Nice as that photo is, I don't think it's the actual "top" of the CMC. my opinion, almost worth what you paid for it

Muir Hut. Tomorrow. Party. Be there!

Where are the pictures of Rachel Babkirk on this site?????

Where are the pictures of Rachel Babkirk on this site?????

A couple of knot-tying (not-tying) chapters to add.... A while back I watched a guy unintentionally "solo" Dan’s Dreadful Direct. He thought he was top-roping but he’d only tied the first figure 8 and passed the loose tail through his harness. When he was about 2/3 of the way to the top someone from below noticed the knot above his head and we all watched expectantly as he finished the knot one-handed - a considerable distance off the deck. I guess DDD doesn’t need bolts after all? A couple years later, also in Leavenworth, an instructor was setting up a top-rope for her class above Deception Crack (option B as Classic was occupied). For whatever reason she chose to tie through the anchors with a length of cord with half of a double-fisherman’s’ (not to be confused with a single fisherman’s or the intended double-fisherman’s). Proceeding to rappel from this set-up, she taught her class how NOT to set anchors by landing face-first at the students’ feet. In both cases, these were experienced climbers. There’s a lesson to be learned: The health risks associated with staying inside the Muir hut and smoking out are far less than going outside to climb. [ 11-21-2001: Message edited by: Downhill ]

[clip] Welcome to our newest member: Scott Hoelscher [clip]

Not to be critical, Scott but I believe all automotive posts are required to be made to the Gary Brill/Backcountry Skiing topic. Then again, I'm easily confused.

quote: Originally posted by Ropegun2001: ...Jon - you idiot- I wasn't refering to you. ... "refering"? I know you weren't referring to me either, but if there's any refering to be done around here, count me in! I guess it would be only considerate to ask Scott and Dan for permission first, tho!

You guys crack me the fuck up. And here I was worried that I’d have to work today. So first off, thanks for that. As for pot and climbing, in my opinion (worth something less than what you paid for it), a little love grass and climbing go together like beans and cornbread, like ham hocks and lima beans, like Birkenstocks and ugly. I’ve been a shitty climber for about 20 years and I can count on one hand the times I wasn’t high and they weren’t nearly as enjoyable. Can I climb harder/better stoned? I have no idea, but I think I’m climbing better and that’s all that matters. To each his own. It’s my view that in close quarters, in a public place like the hut, it’s just being considerate to ask if anyone would mind before you light up (pot or tobacco). But if you’re on the other side and take offense to the smoking, you should similarly ask them to take it outside. A little communication goes along way. Good thread. If dies out, bring back Dan’s Dreadful Direct or the Pearly Gates discussions. [ 11-13-2001: Message edited by: Downhill ]

geek, tool....potay-to, potah-to?

I'm just an arm-chair fool but my hero says "A climber always brings home his dead."

opps [This message has been edited by Downhill (edited 10-05-2001).]

quote: Originally posted by MysticNacho: Just remember to be completely relaxed when you hit, people don't get injured by the impact of the body vs. the ground, but they tense up and freeze all their muscles. It's the same principle as why drunk drivers never get hurt as bad as the people that they hit, they are relaxed from the alcohol and don't tense up. ..... I find the heel to ass to back/hip works wonders. ANOTHER good reason to drink and climb!!! (never forget the 11th essential) As for the heel to the ass, I get enough of that at work but thanks for the tip.

Thanks CC, ... done the route several times but I'm dragging a neophyte along so I want to be prepared for anything including bivi options subject to available snow. I’m surprised that none of the snow near the top of the Cascadian couloir is left. Given the weather over the past few days (per Dru's comments) and the northerly aspect, I'm not sure that it'll melt/dry off in time anyway. I did the gendarme once in the rain wearing mountain boots - once is enough. Who knows - I may get flushed down to bridge creek to mooch beer.

damn you're fast

Considering a N. Ridge trip this weekend (weather permitting of course). I'm curious to know if there's any snow left near the summit or near the top of the Cascadian C. for water/possible bivi. I realize that with the freezing level between 6500 and 7000 these past few days there maybe some new - but I mean prior to any new stuff this week. Can anyone who's been on the summit recently tell me how it looks up there for water?? muchos nachos

Stuart is a great mountain as you can tell from all the posts reoccurring here. And although the couloirs (Cascadian, Ulrich’s, et. al.) would provide non-technical routes to the summit, my guess is that you’d find them to be long, dirty, not too aesthetic and generally unpleasant as ascent options – they also face generally south which is another consideration given the lack of water this time of year. My suggestion is to wait and climb the peak when you can go with a partner and do one of the several outstanding technical routes. Alternative suggestion: A solo hike/peak-bag I personally enjoy from time to time is Ruth Mountain (you can even continue on and include Icy Pk.). The awesome N. Cascades views and great bivi spots on top are hard to beat. Just my opinion – worth what you paid for it.

quote: Originally posted by Terminal Gravity: *snip* was searched by a courtious US border gaurd that was more interested in climbing and my gear than the cuban cigar he found. *snip* Yeesh, don't leave us hangin' man - what happened to the cigar for chrissakes?

I just spoke to the F.S. Station in Leavenworth and the Icicle road is scheduled to be reopened tomorrow 6 A.M. -DH

Hi Thorodin Please check your private mail. Thanks!

I've led both pitches tied in to the middle of a 50M rope, then belayed the 2nd on one half and hauled the pack(s) on the other - cake. A fixed Camelot - cool...how about a string of retro bolts next to the OW?

For very good, live, up-to-the-minute fire status, the best source I've found in the media so far is KOHO radio based right at Harriet Bullit's compound on the Icicle. Live interviews with firefighters, the F.S. etc. – no hype. Listen live (Realplayer, etc.) online at www.kohoradio.com Leavenworth fire information line: 509-548-3187 Info on other Chelan Co. and Okanogan Co: 509-665-3591 DH

I spoke to the Ranger Station in Leavenworth this morning. The campgrounds in the canyon are still open and there are no immediate plans to close them. They have closed the 4th of July/Icicle Ridge trail and Enchantment Loop (Snow Creek – Colchuck) trails to keep hikers and gapers out of the area as a preventative measure. There are several fires in the Enchantment area: Nada Lk, Cannon Mnt. Etc. mostly high on ridges – most in a “watch” status. A fire above Victoria Cr (N of Mt Cashmere) is one of greatest concern at this time. There are a couple fires on the top of Icicle Ridge approximately above Bridge Creek and further east – also small at this time. The lightning fires in the area are primarily all at high elevations – some in areas that have burned previously in recent years. There is a map in the Ranger Station depicting the fires. If anyone is in town and can stop by for a look and report back, TIA.

hehe Retro. You must have advised the platoon on Eldorado last weekend: 2-tools, pickets, flukes, lids, shovels (my view was obscured by the 12-ply Groove-Tex, but I'm betting Jumars were carried as well)