specialed

Its easier to break off bigger rocks if its in block form, and those smoke much nicer then the loose, fine "super" chalk. The powdery stuff just clogs my chalk pipe up.

Is it just me or are the snaffles getting bigger ... I don't bring an axe for the snow and ice in the Cascades anymore, its for the snaffles. I'm gunna start bring guns.

1. Yes sir, Mr. Wherley. 2. They don't like being called Midgets or Dwarves. That's why I like calling them "Midget-Dwarves."

The 2nd and 3rd can be strung together. But yeah technically the 3rd pitch.

Have some what of an altered recollection of that part of the route. However, W Ridge of Forbidden is always climbable. Even if snow is in pretty late season condition, one can always go around it on easy if chossy rock to the left. I don't remember it being such a big deal though. If you put some strap-on crampons on your sneakers and have an axe you will be able to climb it easy. Have fun.

Funniest shit all weekend; Layton (giving beta): Its like a couple green aliens, then goes to yellow aliens and a then a purple camalot. Rolf: Huh? Speak English motherfucker! What size is THAT?

There's a hole drilled for a skyhook on 2nd pitch. I think you're right above a bomber red camalot though.

What a fucking bunch of characters Nice work on the climbs, and putting up with Fred. Canada: Stop sending your fire smoke down here. It sucks enough you export bad music like the Tragically Hip and celtic rock. Shit. Seriously though, nice job! what crazy looking rock.

Its so doable though if going from the southside since the descent is so chill. If your party feels comfortable simul-climbing the lower section, then soloing the upper ridge (except the gendare), if you're in reasonably good shape its totally cool.

I think Erik and I were at like 14 or so via northside. Southside IS faster. Guy Edwards time is fast as hell. The usual suspects (Sean Courage and Mark Kroese)did it in a similar time, maybe faster, though I don't remember the exact time Sean told me.

Coach at practice rock was going off about this once. Claimed he invented the idea when he was working at North Face and then they stole the idea from him

Must be talking 'bout a different gal. My gal wasn't from Fairbanks.

What were rangers headed to Forbidden doing near Triumph? BTW: nice to fortuitously meet you Sunday.

I've had bad experience with neoprene gloves. They're good for summer mountaineering when you're dealing with wet, wet glaciers, but for ice climbing they're not very comfortable and not too warm, and they melt like candle wax on rappel. I really like my Patagonia Stretch Element gloves. They are real warm in very cold conditions (I've used them down to -30 or so), leather palms and fingers so real durable, and are decently dexterious. Not as nimble as the old Triolet glove b/c have more leather but the leather makes them more durable. Only $100 and if/when you destroy them Pataguch will replace.

Fawk! What amazing rock and what a BEAUTIFUL area. Awesome! Did you guys see any game in there?

That was an amazing ascent for an old man and a sexually deviant midgett with a negative ape index. Seriously though, nice job again guys I was thoroughly impressed! We were pysched on our climb too. It was longer, but probably not technically as difficult and a much less involved descent. I'll probably post a TR and some pics when I get a chance. Glad to hear you made it safely back to B'Ham in the state you were in. Eric was worked as hell too as he started driving east on 20 for 10 miles before he realized he was supposed to be going to Seattle not the Methow

That way they got political capital no matter who wins. Kind of like a hedge fund, I suppose.

I never had a menage a trois (sp?), but I know I'd like it.

that is not exactly what I said there Special Well make it up. With details. Iian:

Then you just spent $600 instead of $500. That don't make no sense. Like you're gunna go once and say "this shits lame," I'm going back to the gym. If you're really just curious, borrow gear for a day or two.

Apparently you did more than kiss.

.... not so much as far as women go Details please.

Nice to have that Layton Kor reach sometimes, huh Patrick? Yeah man, I always get stuck leading that stupid rotten block pitch too. I've found if you climb behind it its not too bad to free using some "redneck aid," even though its super akward and involves some squeeze chimney thrutching.

I figured all the forest service rigs in Colorado would be Subaru Outbacks. Just to fit in with the locals, you know.