specialed

Probably true in King County, but might totally be different in other jurisdictions.

Thats a differed sentance you speak of. You'll still have to plead guilty, and it DOES go on your record.

Well done grasshopper.

pursuant to RCW 46.61.502(5), Driving Under the Influence "is a gross misdemeanor." And no, most first time offenders are not offered differed prosecutions. Unless they have a good lawyer, of course.

Way to go Ed, once again you have completely missed the bus (the short bus). My axe weighs 20 ounces and does not extend past my pack. My skis/boots weigh...what.....15pounds and extend 3 FEET from my pack. Again....for the slow kids different tools for different situations. good luck pulling nails with that screwdriver. you are aptly named. Have fun riding your axe down the hill bitch

Nothin like a man in the depths of an ether binge.

No, it is a difference of opinion. I like my ice axe, you like your ice hatchet. My grandfather was a carpenter and he always told me to use the right tool for the job. Same applies here. Don't use a screwdriver to pull nails, don't use a 80cm axe to climb steeps. I am just choosing the tool that best suits my "job". You do the same and together we will cure cancer, end world hunger and make the Balkans a better place to vacation. God bless Texas!!! (and your axe) Yup. Except that the right tool for glacier slogs are ski poles and skis, not a big heavy old school axe.

Tall Skinny People

No. Forbidden climb was weekend before last. Last weekend took all weekend and climbed N Buttress of McMillan. NE Ridge of Triumph looks like a fun day solo though.

Its easier to break off bigger rocks if its in block form, and those smoke much nicer then the loose, fine "super" chalk. The powdery stuff just clogs my chalk pipe up.

Is it just me or are the snaffles getting bigger ... I don't bring an axe for the snow and ice in the Cascades anymore, its for the snaffles. I'm gunna start bring guns.

1. Yes sir, Mr. Wherley. 2. They don't like being called Midgets or Dwarves. That's why I like calling them "Midget-Dwarves."

The 2nd and 3rd can be strung together. But yeah technically the 3rd pitch.

Have some what of an altered recollection of that part of the route. However, W Ridge of Forbidden is always climbable. Even if snow is in pretty late season condition, one can always go around it on easy if chossy rock to the left. I don't remember it being such a big deal though. If you put some strap-on crampons on your sneakers and have an axe you will be able to climb it easy. Have fun.

Funniest shit all weekend; Layton (giving beta): Its like a couple green aliens, then goes to yellow aliens and a then a purple camalot. Rolf: Huh? Speak English motherfucker! What size is THAT?

There's a hole drilled for a skyhook on 2nd pitch. I think you're right above a bomber red camalot though.

What a fucking bunch of characters Nice work on the climbs, and putting up with Fred. Canada: Stop sending your fire smoke down here. It sucks enough you export bad music like the Tragically Hip and celtic rock. Shit. Seriously though, nice job! what crazy looking rock.

Its so doable though if going from the southside since the descent is so chill. If your party feels comfortable simul-climbing the lower section, then soloing the upper ridge (except the gendare), if you're in reasonably good shape its totally cool.

I think Erik and I were at like 14 or so via northside. Southside IS faster. Guy Edwards time is fast as hell. The usual suspects (Sean Courage and Mark Kroese)did it in a similar time, maybe faster, though I don't remember the exact time Sean told me.

Coach at practice rock was going off about this once. Claimed he invented the idea when he was working at North Face and then they stole the idea from him

Must be talking 'bout a different gal. My gal wasn't from Fairbanks.

What were rangers headed to Forbidden doing near Triumph? BTW: nice to fortuitously meet you Sunday.

I've had bad experience with neoprene gloves. They're good for summer mountaineering when you're dealing with wet, wet glaciers, but for ice climbing they're not very comfortable and not too warm, and they melt like candle wax on rappel. I really like my Patagonia Stretch Element gloves. They are real warm in very cold conditions (I've used them down to -30 or so), leather palms and fingers so real durable, and are decently dexterious. Not as nimble as the old Triolet glove b/c have more leather but the leather makes them more durable. Only $100 and if/when you destroy them Pataguch will replace.

Fawk! What amazing rock and what a BEAUTIFUL area. Awesome! Did you guys see any game in there?