savaiusini

quote: Originally posted by salbrecher: thanks for the heads up. looks like the skiis will be left home......still There is some good snow on the south side of Baker, so I hear.

Nevermind, they just called from a payphone. All is well

A couple buddies of mine are about 24 hours overdue from a climb of the Entiat Icefall on Maude. Apparently, there are already 2 other SARs active in and/or around the area. It's possible that my friends are simply helping out in someone else's rescue...but I don't know. At this point, I'm just curious if anyone out there in CCland was up on Maude this weekend. If so, did you see anything that may shed some light on the situation? Thanks for any info.!

quote: Originally posted by Ned Flanders: savaiusini: Can you please post the conditions for skiing the n.f. of observation rock. I am thinking of doing it this week or weekend. Thanks. http://www.turns-all-year.com/ ...not my pictures, but this should sum it up for you. Have Fun!

Anyone been skiing up around Observation rock lately? Me and the misses are thinking of skiing the NF of Obs. tomorrow (8/18). This time of year, you're usually able to get continuous skiing down to this one little lake at the bottom of the main snow field. Anyone out there know if this is still the case? Thanks!

pics from 2 weeks ago: Mt. Jacky Buckner No ice...it was a slog

Sounds like it's melted-out a ton in recent weeks! A buddy and I skied it from the summit down to within a mile and a half of the car only 5 weeks ago. Eeek!!! Time for a freak summer snowstorm to replenish us until october

cooper, there is NO ice on that thing right now. Just did it saturday. screws won't do yo a bit of good either, unless you get a serious cold snap. you could bring a 2nd tool, but you probably won't use it as such. instead you'll probably only use it for balance wading-up the ankle-deep gunk Check it: Mt. Jacky Buckner photos

I think I have to agree with Smoker's and Cavey's scenarios here. Also, I wouldn't really recommend downclimbing the NF of Buckner. Me and a buddy just did it on Saturday and it was REALLY soft (bad crampon balling). We bivyed on the summit after climbing about 12 hrs from the car, topping out around 9:30. Here's some pics: Buckner Trip Photos Another option: I suppose you could do like we did and biv on the top. Then the next day go out Horseshoe Basin to Sahale Arm. Drop a camp there or on the Queen Sloppy and do Forbidden. Best of luck! [ 07-16-2002, 12:16 PM: Message edited by: savaiusini ]

yes, it was very easy compared to what that route can be...

HERE'S THE LINK: http://www.pawprince.com/2002/cascades/home.html My hat's off to these guys and girl!

Skied from the very summit on Sunday 6/9 via the central ascent gully. Ton of snow still up there! We were able to ski all the way down to the logging road and around the corner a bit. By now, it's probably about a 45 minute walk from your car to skinable snow. Took us a leaisurly 11 hours car to car due to having to wait for about 20 pokey folks in the gully. Then we had the top to ourselves. [ 06-19-2002, 08:01 PM: Message edited by: savaiusini ]

quote: Originally posted by RA: Is the snow still deep enough to require snowshoes? Heck no, man...it's a freakin' donkey trail all the way up! The trail in from White River is almost snow free. Closet the snowshoes until about November. [ 06-19-2002, 07:50 PM: Message edited by: savaiusini ]

No, I'm not a guide. It looks like they took it pretty much verbatim, though. I am a pretty good acquaintance of the lead climbing ranger up there. If it was he that made the update, he probably felt he could trust the report. I don't know...not a big deal. Besides, everybody knows guides carry nitro, duh.

When we registered, the ranger was looking through sign out slips. I assume they keep them for route info/stats, etc. I could be wrong

The guys we met were definitely from Utah. (Saw them drive in, Utah plates, said they drove all night from SLC, etc.) Looked like Utah, smelled like Utah....must be Utah?! Did you see the rubber mallet? [ 06-17-2002, 07:44 AM: Message edited by: savaiusini ]

Don't get me wrong...Those guys from Utah could have very well pulled it off. Utah can have some great ice climbing! I've just never heard of a rubber mallet being used for those purposes. Maybe Mike G. can let us know how they did from the sign-out records. I'd be curious. Not to mention, they better send my partner's topo back. That thing was pristinely laminated! [ 06-16-2002, 10:26 PM: Message edited by: savaiusini ]

Made a trip up Liberty Ridge with 3 friends. Left WRCG at 9am after meeting a team of 3 kids who had just driven all night from Utah. From the looks of it, they were going to have themselves an epic. It didn't appear that either of them had any 2nd tools. However, they did have a rubber mallet to "slam those pickets in real good." (No joke) My team looked at one another, and cringed. They also said they had no map OR any previous experience on Rainier. My partner, Jon loaned them a spare topo and gave them his address for its return. We wished them the good luck they were going to need and we were on our way. We made it out to the Carbon in pretty good time. The Glacier was in excellent shape and the line was obvious to the base of the ridge. We traveled as 2 rope teams of two on 2 30 meter ropes. The first 500ft. of the lower ridge was melted-out and made for some interesting maneuvers before we made it back onto the snow. Please Note: there are a couple places before you get to Thumb Rock where there is running water! Finish any extra water you may have left, and fill-up here! The water is quite "grit-free." We arrived at a deserted Thumb Rock around 6:30pm. Several nice platforms had already been made by previous parties and we were in bed quickly thanks to very little need to melt snow. We were on route by 6:30am, traveling solo due to excellent footing. Some rock fall on the initial climb out of camp (leftmost variation). We were greeted with a short-lived ice pellet squall to make things interesting. At about 12,400 we roped-up and started running belays up the face to the top of the Black Pyramid. The snow was mostly a couple inches of rotten sugar over very hard, sometimes black, ice. Those boys from Utah weren't going to be needing that rubber mallet. Screws were the only choice and the placements were bomber! We saw 3 busted tent poles strewn about on the face. Why they stopped here and didn't go rocketing down the mountain, I just don't know! My guess is that they were remnants of the fatalities up there a couple weeks ago. After a short food break, we were on our way to the final pitch up the bergschrund. Nice, steep water ice here with a short traverse under a tiny ice cliff. My partner Jeromy, who lead this part, actually broke the pick on his KONG aluminum axe and finished the pitch with his CM Axar. The purple pick, which I'm sure is still stuck in the ice, stands as a reminder: Aluminum headed axes don't do well on bulletproof ice. At Liberty Cap we were greeted by mostly clear skies and 40mph winds. By the time we were heading across the plateau and slightly up the summit cone, we were engulfed in a lenticular. We bumbled around for close to 2 hours (seemed like forever) in the cloud, looking for a way down. Most directions we headed seemed to put us above big gaping 'schrunds. We were about 5 minutes from giving up and heading to the crater for an epic night in high winds, when the clouds broke and we could see our line, even a wand about 300 feet below. Our senses did us well as were not far off route. We left Camp Schurman at about 9:30pm under clear skies and crescent moon, climbing the gully to the top of the Prow. Dinner at Shari's in Renton at 2am.

THIS CONCLUDES OUR BROADCAST DAY.... I am now turning off my email alerts to this post. My whimpy hotmail acct can't handle all the rhetoric No further comment

You could also try www.telemark-pyrenees.com I've bought from them a few times...Man, they ship fast too. Usually only 2 days! Looks like the Silvretta 500 is going for 178.10 Euros which equals $160US + shipping. Good luck [ 05-03-2002, 02:50 PM: Message edited by: savaiusini ]

Good snow or shitty snow...either way you don't want to fall. I'd say your chances of good snow are pretty good as long as you get a few warm, clear days and freezing temps at night. Best of luck!

April 1999, BIG snow year. We had perfect snow by the time we were coming down it in the afternoon. We simul-soloed the entire climb and descent. Probably one of my top 3 skis ever! Are you looking to ski it also?

http://www.wsdot.wa.gov/regions/NorthCentral/Maint/Area3/nc2002/NCProjectedOpening.htm now it's looking like at least May 6th!

quote: Originally posted by hasbeen: Hey, NoToes, could you drive all the way to the trailhead? If not, how far away did you have to stop. I know it will offend some that I am not on the road checking for myself but since you were there.... Capt. Caveman obviously hasn't crawled out of his cave yet. Otherwise he might say something to this effect: "...why don't you go up there and see for yourself, dickneck?" Personally, I don't tink there's anything wrong with asking for road beta. Why waste the gas only to find out you've got ten extra miles to hump?

Haven't been up there in a couple weeks, but....I've climbed as well as skied NF of Shuksan this time of year. I think your best bet is an evening approach up the valley. Bivy/rest for a few hours at the base of the route. Then go for it! This way you'll avoid the some of the major hazards of the White Salmon during the day. If you're really worried about it, you could keep way to the left on your approach up the valley. As long as you get several days of freeze/thaw cycles and start the route early, you should be OK. [ 05-01-2002, 04:44 PM: Message edited by: savaiusini ]