wayne

Picture link untill Gary loads.

Trip: Snow Cr Wall - N.Dih.Direct-Swing and a Prayer Date: 2/3/2007 Trip Report: Saturday Gary Yngve and I,Wayne Wallace, climbed the thin line left of White Slabs route on Snow Creek Wall. It went in 5 long pitches and was extremely difficult.The route got gradually harder as we went, which helped because we were both O-T-Couch. The intital 2 pitches went up fantastic thin ribbons up ramps and micro gulleys. Though thin,hard,and awkward they entertained us for the fist 120 meters emensly. At times the ice was 4 inches wide, half inch thick!They ended up in a wide curtain that felt very thick though an inch and a half deep.I ran this out 100 feet to reach the stance below the overhanging ice crux pillar. The ice pillar was short but extremely strenuous due to the overhanging angle. After that we entered a Scottish style ice gulley, more fun, though Gary had to relieve himself midway with a S3 bowel flush while following. Pitch 4 went up thin ice in the dihedral until the ice ran out then became very difficult dry tooling in a long sketchy lead. Many times I felt I would fall and die on the runout. Pitch 5 was easier though the deep snow and short hard sequences drained any energy we may have had available. Topping out after 8 hard hours we reveled in the glow of our first climb together. Hats off to Peter for dropping the hint of this climb,and Rat and Caps for exploring to make this an enticing prospect and wonderful testpiece. Thanks< Wayne and Gary Gary will follow with the pics, Cheers and hope to see you at the Mongo/Erden show this Thursday Gear Notes: Screws, pins and cams to 3"

Gary Y and I did the North Dihedral Direct today and found it to be very difficult mixed and thin ice. Full TR should be up tommorrow< wayne

He just has to be. He accosted my girlfriend in Woodland Park once. There is a carpool forming for a PDX contingency for the show, PM me for info

Web cam?

I lived there for 2 years. I saw some small boulders in the forest, but nothing like the Renton massif

Stay warm -Yours for 500$ almost new, though 6yrs old .I think these run 900$ now.800 fill.. Never used on overnight trip. My experience is Western offers the best bags

DANGER DANGER!! cc dont like no fast climbin stuff!

Come on, Public forum here, What the hell was it?

We're really no more parasitic than many other species, and we're not the first to alter the planet's fundamental workings. Methanogens may have warmed the earth to the point where photosynthesizers could evolve, which in turn produced the oxygen that killed most of their benefactors. The success of a species invariably means that previously successful species take in the shorts. We're no different. The earth is a wonderful but unforgiving place, something we are just now beginning to observe firsthand. A stable climate allowed us to finally flourish after more than 100,000 years of throwing spears, and it will be an unstable climate of our own making that will levy harsh limits on that previously unchecked success. We can all take comfort in our collective realization that, despite all the wacky religions, philosophies of entitlement, and exploitative economic systems we've managed to come up to justify our rapacious nature, we are very much just another animal here, no less a part of nature than any other. The earth will be habitable by any form of life for less than 10% of its total history. From that viewpoint, life itself is an aberration, not the norm. Wow I have a new respect for trashtalkeetna, I had to copy/paste that quote to word and save it. I have one question, is that from another source of writing or did you come up with that on your own? > I am not a big sprayer and am serious here, Wayne

WOW Blake, looks like you may have had some actual ice though? Good job!

It was 79-80 that the Multnomah almost came into our dreams. The line 30 feet to the right became a low volume diversion channel and did come in. Jeff Thomas got 200 feet up it and called it"The Once and Future King"That winter had a 2 month long cold blast!

I can be the dude here,always willing to take up the argument. I want more than us out of Iraq. There is a strong need to overthrow our jovernment.Misspelled to keep away the spybots

Yes but we still have gas in our cars

A good way to tell is leave a 5 gallon bucket outside and when it frozen solid, beat it over your head until you stop wanting to do this crazy shit

These people want Armegeddon so bad they want to make it happen themselves, now. There is prophesy of perecution, they seem to want that too. I wont touch the Antichrist( Boosh)

I know I shouldnt post while drunk(pwd). Would everyone please unstick their lips from Crofts zipper!, The only thing that impresses me about his jaunt is he did it in a day. I am going to do that traverse just to show it is doable w/o being god-like and shit. Lets see anyone repeat any of the big recent shit! Boaaah!

The Ingalls peaks make a great easier traverse. I like the one Sean and Andreas did with Buckner Logan and Goode. Just stay away from the Pickets, They should be banned for being dangerous.Anything in the Cascade pass area is great too.

D-F'n-A!

2 new routes in das Piggets, .Travel to another country, Maybe Wad.hopefully a FWA

My pleasure. That what is so wrong with these winter shows. All fired up and nowhere to go. Now does last Augusts-Colin-show make sense?

Please join us for the Slide Show of Mongo Ridge. Feb 8th Seattle REI!

You guys on this blog are so wonderful.

Make room in the sand box boys. THe new infusion is here, just in time for all the oldtimers who dropped out. I feel very old as one of the few who have lingered since the earth wobbled

HELP. I cant send anything to the aaj! Can someone please help! Wayne