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wayne

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Everything posted by wayne

  1. The worst climbers in the world Good luck next time
  2. fun!
  3. Poor Gary didnt have a choice in the Scottish Gulley belay, I was listening to the different sounds made on different parts of his body/pack/helmut
  4. Jesus
  5. Thanks,it was fun putting it on, There is a possible Portland show we are working to do in May or so
  6. Placed 4 pins on 3 pitches,I believe. Thanks and hope you all can get a crack at this someday.
  7. Wow such great beta, I dont even have to do it now! Thanks
  8. Laytonian brand insanity! Bring it.
  9. What a great idea! GO for it lads! Represent.
  10. I am intrested in climbing it next weekend and maybe do a traverse, Could you elaborate on approach beta, please? Thnx
  11. I will go first, Thanks
  12. I am reluctant to give it grades as it may be fatter or thinner when another party does it.. but when we did it it went a little like this. P1; m4 wi3 thin connecting ribbons P2: m5 wi3+® Thin! Belay at top is amazing! P3 : wi5- short overhanging pillar followed by scottish gulley P4 : m6 wi4® dissapearing thin ice to hard corner-dry P5: m3 wi3 energy gobbeling friggin around Overall: IV-WI5-M6-R 300m It was just my kind of route with so much variety. A little piece of climbing heaven in a spectacular-historic location. Glad you enjoyed the tr, I enjoyed the other fantastic ones on this site for sure!
  13. Bump- still available. Wheres the Denali crowd?
  14. Send them across the street! Seattle REI. 700pm _Mongo
  15. Outstanding John and Dave . You earned it and it couldnt have gone to better troops! Cant wait for the Sausagefest on this one! It is so cool nobody but locals and friends compete for this stuff, Wayne
  16. Tr for N. Dihedral is now up in Alpine Lakes.
  17. Trip: Snow Cr Wall - N.Dih.Direct-Swing and a Prayer Date: 2/3/2007 Trip Report: Saturday Gary Yngve and I,Wayne Wallace, climbed the thin line left of White Slabs route on Snow Creek Wall. It went in 5 long pitches and was extremely difficult.The route got gradually harder as we went, which helped because we were both O-T-Couch. The intital 2 pitches went up fantastic thin ribbons up ramps and micro gulleys. Though thin,hard,and awkward they entertained us for the fist 120 meters emensly. At times the ice was 4 inches wide, half inch thick!They ended up in a wide curtain that felt very thick though an inch and a half deep.I ran this out 100 feet to reach the stance below the overhanging ice crux pillar. The ice pillar was short but extremely strenuous due to the overhanging angle. After that we entered a Scottish style ice gulley, more fun, though Gary had to relieve himself midway with a S3 bowel flush while following. Pitch 4 went up thin ice in the dihedral until the ice ran out then became very difficult dry tooling in a long sketchy lead. Many times I felt I would fall and die on the runout. Pitch 5 was easier though the deep snow and short hard sequences drained any energy we may have had available. Topping out after 8 hard hours we reveled in the glow of our first climb together. Hats off to Peter for dropping the hint of this climb,and Rat and Caps for exploring to make this an enticing prospect and wonderful testpiece. Thanks< Wayne and Gary Gary will follow with the pics, Cheers and hope to see you at the Mongo/Erden show this Thursday Gear Notes: Screws, pins and cams to 3"
  18. Gary Y and I did the North Dihedral Direct today and found it to be very difficult mixed and thin ice. Full TR should be up tommorrow< wayne
  19. He just has to be. He accosted my girlfriend in Woodland Park once. There is a carpool forming for a PDX contingency for the show, PM me for info
  20. Web cam?
  21. I lived there for 2 years. I saw some small boulders in the forest, but nothing like the Renton massif
  22. Stay warm -Yours for 500$ almost new, though 6yrs old .I think these run 900$ now.800 fill.. Never used on overnight trip. My experience is Western offers the best bags
  23. DANGER DANGER!! cc dont like no fast climbin stuff!
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