Zee

My schedule is fairly flexible as I'm paid commission so I'm always looking for experienced or new partners for climbing or backcountry skiing. I can do weekdays with a days notice (or even less if conditions are great). E-mail me and we can discuss routes, level, etc.

I just got life insurance through USAA (family memeber, spouse, etc in military)and I had to fill out a climbing addendum stating what type of climbing I did, frequency, and whether I plan any major climbing trips- (they defined it as the Himilayas but did not mention Alaska)in the future. The coverage was for $250,000 and for only $235/year. Just my 2 cents!

Specialed- I'm driving through to and staying at Golden this Saturday and then driving to trailhead for Bow Hut on Sunday morning so I could throw it in the back of my pick up- no problem. Let me know!

where is it?

how about giving this person an answer relevant and worthwhile rather than going on a tangent about this and that? It seems as if the old boys club is always in full swing with a lot of BS and worthless info!

Matt- I maybe able to do this. I'll know better on Sat, afternoon or Sunday. E-mail with your number and what you're thinking.

Captain- climbed u-notch in late may about 5 years ago. It was a heavy snow year so there wasn't much alpine ice on it - although there was no 'shrund to cross at the bottom. At the top of the notch it's low fifth class rock (good quality) to the ridge leading to the summit. A fun climb and usually great weather. There's also some other great climbs up there. E-mail if you need any more beta.

Cpt.- yeah, I'll be at the mile-o from Saturday thorugh Tuesday.

ZENOLITH- getta' life.

avalanche beacon for sale. Used one time last year when I forgot mine on the way to Whistler backcountry. Backcountry access tracker- all digital. $225. e-mail me at davez@bellhomeloans.com if interested.

Anyone know the web site address for conditions up there? Thanks!

looking for a good down coat with a hood for Alaska this spring. Not for Denali but for in the Ruth Gorge. Any suggestions greatly appreciated!

Looking for some used black prophets (straight or bent) or pulsars. Hopefully, reasonable price.

Alpine K- you seem pretty defensive! I suspect you think you're a better skier than you really are! And yeah, you're right who cares what I or you think!

Alpine K- you're the uptight one getting pissed off for someone rippin' on you for smoking in the hut. I'd have told you to smoke it (whatever you smoke, pot or dogshit) outside. As far as saying' you're a better skier than he is 'cause you're a bad-ass pot smoker then you're sadly mistaken! Get a freakin' life and by the way, learn how to ski!

I tried Gib Ledges twice last year- March & April. First time the winds at Muir were 50-75 mph's and the 2nd time Gib Ledges high avy danger-wind slabs so we turned around. January is a bit early, alot of storms, and very short days. I know some people that summited via the Ledges in late March, April, and early May. This generally seems the best time to do it.

Capt- can't get through to your e-mail. I'm interested in a few items. E-mail with your work number or e-mail address.

has anyone done this route lately? or done Mazama route? any conditions or beta greatly appreciated!

We did Frostbite Ridge last weekend. We camped in Pumice Creek Basin at 5,500' due to time constraints. We went through the basin, onto the Ptarmigan Glcaier. We traversed to the top of it, dropped down to the upper Kennedey Glacier, climbed to the saddle below Frostbite. Just below the Rabbit Ears we encountered to short pitches of alpine ice, climbed throught the ears, dropped down 100 ft to the ridge leading to the false summit. Here, we encountered a 30m pitch of alpine ice and a bergshrund buried in new snow about a quarter of the way up. Then a traverse across to the false summit, down to the crater and below the full pitch of alpine ice at 60-65 degrees. Very good quality ice with little dinner-plating. We simul-climbed through this with two screws for pro. After this it's 400-500 ft of snow at 40 degrees to the summit. A long day (8 hours up) and long day down. You can also camp on the ridge at 7,200' at the Ptarmigan by taking a climbers' trail approximatley a mile before Pumice Basin. Where the trail rounds the corner after a long climbing traverse is where the climbers' path is, although we did nit use it nor did we look for it. You may want to bring a spare tool for the alpine ice pitch at the top as it is fun and the most direct route. Good luck!

Did Frostbite Ridge on Glacier Peak. Awesome climb with no one around! Alot of traversing, up & down, 3 short pitches of alpine ice (45-50 degrees) and one full pitcj of the best alpine ice (60-70 degrees) I've ever climbed- better than the ice on North face of Athabasca. Great route. If anyone wants beta on it let me know!

good luck getting from the kennedy glacier to the chocolate. the lower kennedy is shredded and it looks impossible if not a royal pain in the ass to get to- it's in a huge, deep, steep basin. the upper part of kennedy to the saddle below frostbite ridge is in fine shape. I crossed it on the way to frostbite ridge and was excellent for cramponing with most crevasses easily by-passed. best approach for frostbite ridge is via pumice creek basin and then the ptarmigan glacier to the upper kennedy. it's a great route with lots of variety but a very long day!

what time?

Has anybody been up there? Any conditions and beta greatly appreciated.

Climbed the east ridge (in Nelson's new book) on Sunday. A beautiful day- sunny & warm! Snow at the basin but it's very consolidated. The east ridge is not a bad climb with some nice exposure and mostly mid-fifth class climbing. The guide says there's a 5.7 "unprotectable" section but that's not the case. More like 5.5-5.6. While everyone was doing the south face, there was only one other party on the route. It's a good route for conditioning, simul-climbing, and practicing swapping leads with a new alpine rock climber, etc. Cheers!

What is "typically" the best time to climb Maude? I know it's a subjective question. Also what is the best approach to get to the north face based on past experience? Thanks!