Don_Serl

re: west coast ice 2: yah, i'm digging for info. the 1st edition sold out last year, and i didn't have enuf energy and time after finishing the waddington guide to get WCI2 out for this winter - apologies to those of you desiring beta in guide book form... especially with what looks to be a totally stellar season coming in... fyi, a pretty decent job of compiling route info for the WCI area is available on-line at: http://www.aranet.ca/icybc/ and when u get to lillooet, the mini-guide from last year's ice fest is available to peruse over breakfast at the cafe in the reynolds. pretty confusing tho, cuz the routes are listed (by geographic section) in grade order, so it's hard to tell what's where. i'll get a separate post up requesting input. pls PM me if you've got anything. cheers,

flurries, with -7C to -3C lows and -1C to +1C highs on weds/thurs/fri. that's in lillooet: M/C, the duffey, and the bridge are all colder. sounds about perfect. btw, for anyone who still has not caught on, the on-line weather for lillooet is: http://www.weatheroffice.ec.gc.ca/forecast/city_e.html?WKF cheers, don

tks for the reminder, fern. i checked the new MEC route book: craig and chris installed a bolt belay off to the right, which they say is safe from falling ice. they report 8 bolts on the rock face, then u get onto the ice. it's not clear how this differs (if at all) from what john and connie climbed in 99/0 - the dagger didn't touch down that year - in fact, it's likely only touched down once, in early '96 when "shreddie" was 1st climbed by john chilton and jia condon. it had a cpl repats that year too. i consider the mixed line a completely different route than "shreddie", which was climbed completely on ice. provided you could get around the pillar from right to left (which i failed at), there was a reasonable groove up the left, then a hard traverse right was required, then "good grade V" to the top. cheers,

old goat: planning several days, with new years eve in lillooet - ought to be a hoot! i'll give u a call... dru: wasn't there a tale floating around a few years ago about guy doing exactly the same thing? of course, then there was bruce kay's remark, as he and his partner contemplated exactly the same exercise, that if the dagger snapped off "it'd squash you like a bug!" having been up there to unsuccessfully try shreddie [i couldn't keep my tools in the puke, and fell off...], i'd have to agree. there is no good place to hide at the belay - the whole goddamm column looms above you like a nightmare. gotta say the rock behind the column looked pretty climbable, tho...) maybe craig and beeker were able to sidle out right and get a belay on the rock. whatever, a strong performance - no surprise from these two!

so, oldgoat, wanna share the tale of what became of the ranched ice at M/C from last year? the parks guys lacking a sense of humour, was it?

ade, there is a parking area on the main highway across from the mouth of the valley - you'll see the plowed area, and there are almost always cars there. you ski directly across the valley, not too far or too long. the best terrain in the lower valley for skiing lies on the E side (NOT the steeper W side taken by the summer trail). this runs thru a series of open glades (swamps in summer). cross to the W side about where the valley draining the NE face enters the main valley if you headed for routes on the NE face; otherwise, it's best in most snow conditions to stay on the E side and to ski all the way around the toe of the ridge, then come at the cabin from the SE, rather than trying to get up the very steep "nose" of the ridge following the summer trail. maybe 2hrs (3 or 4 hrs in deep snow) to the cabin. avvy conditions are what u wld expect anywhere in the mtns in winter. the area gets less snow than more-coastal places, and has a reputaion for being fairly stable. there is a LOT of backcountry skiing that takes place in the area, so it gets sussed out pretty well - anybody skiing there will have pitted some of the slopes. matier gets climbed a fair amount in winter, from the col at the head of anniversary glacier. joffre is a bit steeper, but the australian couloir (on the SW face) gets done regularly, then skied!!! i've heard of very little true winter climbing on the NE face - you need to get good weather to coincide with good conditions, which is not easy. there is a reasonably sheltered bivy site below the face (just left of the number 51 on page 219 of "alpine select"), or you can bivy on the prow right of that same numeral (safer if the weather craps out overnite). it'll take 5 or 6hrs from the car to reach the bivy - i've failed in there a cpl times... bruce kay and greg foweraker climbed the flavelle-lane route in winter a few years back, and guy edwards and (i forget who???) did the gully between that route and the central pillar a cpl winters back - i seem to recall one bivy on the route. the various gullies have probably been climbed, but i don't have specifics, and few people do this kind of stuff in true winter! i climbed the complete N ridge, all the way from the high point on the highway immediately E of the joffre lakes parking lot, in winter quite a few years ago. one day to treeline - snowshoeing, not skiing, up thru bluffy forested terrain. then a fine day to the top and back to the road on mostly easy terrain, with 3 or 4 ropelengths belayed, and one them - at the midridge notch - quite hard. a great outing, i thought. i've also done the ridge in winter from joffre lakes, which includes all the same technical sections high on the ridge, but i prefer the full ridge rather than slogging up the valley. see page 214 in A/S. enjoy, cheers, don

tod, see PM... cheers, don

executive summary - lots of ice, most stuff in, big snowfall but it seems to be stabilizing, not too cold. cut the excuses - GO THERE! *** took 20 hrs to drive from vanc to lake louise fri/sat 11/28-29 becuz of snow - stoppages on coquihalla, rogers pass, and kicking horse canyon (golden). *** climbed louise falls w rob nugent, janez ales, and ade miller sun 11/30 - we were only party on it all day! crux column in typical-to-good shape. i'd call it "easy 5". there is a seldom-formed 1p 4+ on wall in trees to left. *** climbed weeping wall right mon 12/1. i'd call it 4+; best line about 5m left of the dihedral on p2. two other parties on w/w: far left, and left side of centre, both looked 4-ish, ice is still kinda thin and wet in places, but not troublesome. a party attempted aerial boundaries, but came down. >>lotsa ice on the right side of upper weeping wall, thinner on left. lots in snivelling gully too. >> polar circus in in, but there was a lot of fresh snow (parkway closed for 2 days), and there were numerous natural releases visible on similar exposures further north becuz of the storm. give it a while, maybe, and let the locals be the avalanche poodles... >>ice nine is an extremely thin pillar so far; happy days has touched down, so will get climbed later this season if there is not a cold spell to snap it off. >>tons of good looking blue ice in lady wilson's cleavage. >>oh le tabernac is in; ditto most lines in bowl above. >>only had a brief glimpse of murchison falls, but looked fully in. >>looked to be lots of snow in the gullies on the E face of chephren, so maybe the wild thing will be "in" come spring. >> more ice than can be believed on E face of howse. too bad it's all grade 7 or whatever... >> ditto for riptide... *** climbed carlsberg tues 12/2. i suppose you'd call it "5", cuz there's lots of vertical "stepping", but the hooking is good, and you don't have to place screws off fully vertical positions. one pitch 58m to trees at left - rap slings and rings in situ - be careful to position the ropes carefully at the lip to ease pull (there are a couple knot-catcher grooves...) >>there are tracks up to kronenbourg, and it's way fatter than the photo in waterfall ice ed.4. mighta got climbed? >>pilsner is fully in, but looks hard - that's not at all unusual! >>heineken and labatts in, but LOTS of snow in the gullies above. ditto masseys. didn't note guinness... >> cool springs looks great... >> silk tassel in, but again, lots of snow above. ### surprisingly, despite our worries about the snow conditions at field, we found the snowpack quite stable on the walk up to carlsberg. untypically for the rockies, it's not that cold (around -10C at night), so maybe a more coastal metamorphosis is going to take place, with the pack firming up in just a few days. i agree with the need for caution, and there were obvious hideous hazards on cross-loaded slopes all the way up the parkway (skiers at bow summit beware), but my feeling is it's coming around quickly. check the canadian avalanche association site, and when u get there. see: http://www.avalanche.ca/weather/bulletins/index.html >> at golden, essondale L and R look good (right looks superb, actually...). pretty nuts has been more or less destroyed by the highway construction. lady killer looked in; so did ice scream (but it gets lots of sun...) it's great right now. go there... cheers,

hey, i top-rope too. great way to climb things you fear you'd kill yourself on otherwise. as others have said, it's not about TR'ing or not TR'ing, it's about where, when, and the effects on others. and yourself... cheers,

guys, let me repeat a comment i've made before, regarding early season ice at marble canyon. it's wonderful to get on it as soon as possible, BUT there is a sordid history in the last few years of people top-roping really "young" ice, bashing the hell out of the immature formations, and setting back the solidification of the features by weeks - sometimes (as in the really lean winter last year) fucking it up for everyone for the rest of the winter. use a little self-discipline and patience: early season, if the ice is poor enough (or if you're not tuned enough) to lead the climb, leave it alone. or, if you absolutely MUST top rope, if your mother is going to disown you if you don't climb SOMETHING on the weekend, do so with utmost delicacy. even once the routes are fully "in", develop (and encourage in others) the habits of climbing "lightly" when you top-rope. you're on a frigging TR; you can't get hurt; this is precisely the time to work at developing technique that'll allow you to lead securely and confidently - and that certainly does NOT include climbing (as the late, great john lauchan used to put it) like a mastodon! and push yourself to CLIMB the routes rather than top roping them. yup, way more scary, way more serious, far pumpier, much slower. but you'll find over time that people who get sucked into the TR'ing mentality just don't go very far with their climbing development. they might "get up" a bunch of single-pitch ice routes, but they don't really know how to "climb" ice. so they live in a world of self-delusion - and THAT is the greatest enemy there is to a long and happy career (not to mention survival) as a climber... marble canyon is a "limited resource", and all of us who spend time there every winter owe it to each other to think a little more broadly than just of our own pleasure in that specific moment when we are there. there endeth my annual sermon... bring on the cold! cheers,

caveman, there was frozen stuff all over the place, but most of it faces the sun and it wasn't cold enuf to keep it from rotting; lotsa stuff clattering down. the main drainage was frozen too - a huge grade 2...

many thanks jordon. we were on the summit when u flew by - waited for the chopper to come up and have a look, but u headed off SE. nice photo of wedgemount lake and area. to clarify for those who aren't familiar with the area: *** the hut is on the bench between the two bumps on the near side of the lake, halfway along in this view. 4000 ft up from the road; count on 2 - 2 1/2hr if light daytripping, 3-4 hrs with overnite gear. i seem to need an extra half hour either way if it's dark. *** wedge is the big guy to the right. W ridge is rt skyline [reputedly a classic of block-pile drudgery]. W couloir lies beneath it on its left flank, rising to shoulder on W ridge: about 500m of 45d snow/ice; sometimes used for descent; frequently skied. our line ("the slot") is the thin white line dropping thru the centre of the buttress left of the W couloir. not easy to see from the angle of the photo, but the slot ends on a promontory ridge, and there is a 200m exposed horizontal snow traverse right to finish up the upper W couloir. *** parkhurst lies below and just right of wedge. the couloir is obvious, directly facing the camera on the NW face. we took the left branch direct to the summit - in fact, the 'entry' into the left branch (first 3rd) doesn't quite show in this view (hidden by the rock buttress). i know the right branch of the couloir has been skied; not sure about the direct finish - pretty narrow... *** rethel is just out of view to right - got a photo of that to add? cheers,

fine alpine ice out there, altho here comes the rain... if it doesn't get too snowy, keep wedgemount lake in mind for an alpine gully-fest. or keep it in mind for a cold snap next autumn. ade and i walked up to wedgemount cabin 10/30 evening by headlamp, arriving 11pm. effing cold! so rambled up lesser weart (SW pk) friday - up SE ridge, down armchair glcr. then climbed lakeside couloir (N couloir) on rethel saturday - see bivouac.com for a good photo: http://www.bivouac.com/PhotoPg.asp?PhotoId=4293 way easier than it looks: crisp 45d neve and ice with a 5m brittle 65d ice exit. dragged the rope, so i can report it is 11 x 60m in length. 1 1/2hrs in couloir, 8 hrs hut-to-hut via wedge/parkhurst col on descent. [rethel/parkhurst N slope very icy...] went back this weekend with rob nugent and janes ales. smart enuf 2nd time to walk up in daylight, then get a good sleep, so got an early start for W face of wedge. there is a great-looking thin snow/ice line left of the W couloir in a "slot" couloir - doesn't show in alpine select, and is kinda half visible on pg 65 of fairley. again, 45d-50d superb crisp neve with short sections of ice to 65d. 1100 ft in the couloir, which ends on a promontory ridge. 200m exposed snow traverse right allows exit via top 500ft of W couloir. down N arete - fine conditions. 2 hrs in couloir, 1 more hr up; 10hrs hut-to-hut. sunday climbed NW couloir on parkhurst: see alpine select p205 - extreme left branch; middle section is hidden by rock buttress. as above, 45d-50d sweet alpine whiteness, with several body-length steeper steps. 1200 ft from gear-up on rocks below apron, 900 ft from schrund. 1 1/2 hrs gear-up to summit; 7 1/2 hrs hut-to-hut. notes: times are for old guys like me, and include lotsa gazing from summits - all the way to monmouth! some young guy should enchain all 3 lines in a day - hell, maybe i'll go do that myself! and we didn't put the rope on or place a single piece of gear anywhere - sometimes i wonder why i take the stuff for all those walks...

josh, you don't say where you live, but i assume the USA from the "up there" comment. if you're passing thru vancouver, MEC stocks most of the 1:50,000 sheets for southwest BC, but not more remote areas, and they don't have their maps available for website sales. i've had good service from Int'l Travel Books and Maps; www.itmb.com; 604-879-3621; 4 blocks west of MEC along Broadway. they do phone and web sales too. Kevin McLane (publisher of Waddington, Squamish, Bugaboos, etc guides)swears by Nanaimo Maps; 1-800-665-2513. the Canada Map Office website gives more info than you'll ever need about where to get maps, and includes a search tool to home in on which map you need: http://maps.nrcan.gc.ca/cmo/ cheers,

while you're at it sharing the secrets via PMs, ask dru to tell u the tale about us spending 4 hours lying on our backs, filing thru the chain that supports the spare tire on my old landcruiser. one of the great misadventures of all time, worthy of many a beer and a greater number yet of belly-laughs! oh, as for the peak, did u check bivouac.com? http://www.bivouac.com/MtnPg.asp?MtnId=1170 cheers,

the cable crossing is definitely worth experiencing. it's especially enjoyable to be hanging over the middle of the river on a winter evening as the light dies and the ice-pans clink softly together as they pass beneath you. enjoy! wear your climbing harness, and set slings from your tie-in so that the biner(s) that'll clip to the cable will be at face level - that way you can get some power from your arms into the "drag". shot-gun your pack on a long prussik (below your feet) off the tie-in loop of the harness so the weight dead-hangs off the cable; for christ sakes, don't even consider WEARING the pack across - you'll bust your back and end up hanging meat before u get halfway. or have to ditch the pack into the river. provided you "lift" a bit to unweight at each pull, the hardest part of the crossing is pulling up the pack and getting it onto the landing platform when you "land". you can use a WIDE-opening locking carabiner (i've done it successfully on a Clog HMS which i just measured at 23mm (15/16") of opening.) if you lack such a device (or aren't carrying one), you can also use two slings, and simply cross TWO locking carabiners, locked into each other across the cable - way less desirable, and not a nice way to load a biner, but it gets u across. set them so the BACKS load, not the gates! i've done it both ways. i guess in an emergency you could use double non-locking biners on each side, set with all 4 backs to the cable. sketchy... expect to show some wear on the biner(s) by the time u get to the far side. buff the edges out with emery paper when u get back home, pretend the groove is from munter-belaying or rapping with a wet, gritty rope (which causes more wear yet...), and continue to use the biner as your principal anchor point. this is mountaineering, not some beauty contest!

good work, snoboy. took me SEVEN attempts to summit the pilot!

whew! what a spew-fest! i hate to risk adding to the debate... however... i should point out the obvious, which nobody has brought up: marmot's claimed fill power went from 800 to 900 NOT because the down quality changed, but because the TEST changed. IDFL in SLC is the north american standard-setter, and they modified their test a cpl years back. the conditioning of the down now goes on longer, and includes blowing warm dry air up thru the down in the testing cylinder prior to testing. previous testing included stirring, but not a session under the hairdryer. (this was a favorite trick of sleeping bag salesmen in years past - stop by the local laundromat before showing off your wares!) the new test is consistent and repeatable, and produces bigger numbers for the manufacturers, which they then pass along to impress their customers - which then causes competing suppliers to raise THEIR numbers too, as western mountaineering and MEC (and probably others) have done - otherwise they look like they are falling behind in a loft-race. but the DOWN has not changed one bit! this may be a natural, irresistible process, but it plays us consumers for suckers, and it creates confusion in the marketplace, neither result being progress. so much for reality, now for opinion: *** the loft power matters very little to the overall weight of the bag, as others have pointed out. a REAL increase from 800FP to 900FP would allow the designer to lower the fill wt of the bag by 11% and still generate the same loft. this wld save about 1 1 /2 oz on a typical lighter bag, and twice that on a winter bag. at a cost of AT LEAST $50 for the light bag and twice that for the winter bag. light does not come cheap... *** nor, as someone else pointed out, does light "work" very well in scuzzy conditions. very high loft down loses a much higher proportion of its loft power when it gets damp and otherwise abused (like, crammed into the bottom of your pack, as opposed to shipped in a huge storage sack), and it's (more-or-less) the thickness of the insulation layer that keeps you warm, not the FP number. *** the biggest way to save wt in a sleeping bag is to lighten the shell and baffling fabrics, which are around 40% of the total bag wt for a winter bag and 60% (or more) for ultralites. again, this is VERY pricey, plus durability suffers. *** and a bigger way yet is to cut the bag VERY narrow, which reduces fabric wt, fill wt, cost - and comfort! *** the "best" bags for real-world, long term use, in my opinion and experience, include the following elements: 1. moderately high FP down (say 600-650FP) - lively lofting, good feeling, but not overly "high-strung"; 2. 14-20 oz fill (12cm-15cm/5"-6" loft, good for 20ºF/-5º to -10ºC or so) - and overfill is good, for resisting loft collapse when damp; 3. 40 denier outer fabric (light, but tough enough for years of use) and maybe a 30den liner; 4. NEVER an expensive waterproof-breathable outer shell fabric (some may disagree with me on this, but i hate the expense, and the THOUGHT of the extra protection seems to work better in the showroom than in reality - plus, ever try to COOK in a sleeping bag, or even a bivy sack?); 5. ALWAYS a synthetic fill overbag when the temperature is lower than the bag can handle, or when the conditions are going to be "demanding" - the MEC penguin is the class of the field: http://www.mec.ca/Products/product_detail.jsp?FOLDER<>folder_id=589113&PRODUCT<>prd_id=15813&bmUID=1058130961064 in 30 years of mountaineering, i have NEVER had a bag accumulate moisture while i was using an overbag. credit george lamb of Camp 7 for inventing the idea back in the '70s. 5. a reasonably comfortable cut, so you can live it the bag for long periods having to get out to change your mind... *** none of this matters if you are out for one night, which is the situation for most people most of the time, and if you have unlimited money. go as crazy as your wallet will allow on lightness; fit the bag like lycra; shred the delicate fabrics, cuz you can always get the "next best thing" next year; top it all off with $200 worth of WPB technology. 50 grams saved is 50 grams saved! p.s. marmot makes superb bags. feathered friends make superb bags. western mountaineering make superb bags. rab makes superb bags. valandre makes superb bags. there are others...

Those interested in modern digital high-resolution on-line mapping should check out the BC Basemap Viewer. The entire province has been mapped with aerial surveys at 20m data-point spacings; the results are excellent. See: http://maps.gov.bc.ca/imf/imf.jsp?site=bc_basemap The viewer is quite intuitive; remember to turn "ON" the layers. Turning "OFF" the 3rd "Grids and Images" tab ("TRIM Orthomosaic") removes photo-overlays which interfere with visibility in some areas. 48,000 scale (anything sub-50,000) is good for "cruising", as it includes most point elevations. Zooming "OUT" to 96,000 shows 100m contouring and key placenames. Zooming "IN" shows ever-greater detail. Have fun!

Drew Brayshaw's list of the 100 highest peaks near Vancouver stimulated me to finish a table I was working on: a compliation of the highest summits in the Coast Mountains, between Vancouver and Bella Coola (i.e., ignoring the Alaska panhandle). The "rules" I operated under are: *** I prepared this list using recent digital data in the BC Basemap, NOT older NTS maps. Stated accuracy is plus-or-minus 12m. *** I attempted to identify every summit over 2900m. *** I estimated elevations to the nearest 5m for closed contour peaks (i.e., those without an indicated point elevation), based on size of above-contour area and surrounding slope. Estimated heights are indicated with an asterix on the accompanying list. Accuracy should be plus-or-minus 10m, as the contour interval is 20m. *** A few very sharp peaks in the Serra/Stiletto/Upper Tellot area have not been captured well by the mapping technology; elevations for these peaks have been estimated (as per "The Waddington Guide"). *** Sub-summits (i.e., peaks with less than 100m clear elevation separation from the "main" summit) have been eliminated. Peaks which carry significant sub-summits will be found to carry a numeral (e.g., "Combatant Mtn (1)"). *** Some historically and/or culturally important named summits which have less than 100m prominence have been retained in the list (e.g., many small summits on Upper Tellot Glacier and Marcus-to-Munday ridge). If you're a bivouac.com subscriber, you can access the complete listing of 184 peaks higher than 2900m (about 9500 ft), incl lat/longs, at: http://www.bivouac.com/ExpPg.asp?ExpId=211 Or u can just plow thru the following condensed version: The 100 Highest Peaks of the Coast Mountains Rank Peak Name Region or Range Height (m) 1 Mount Waddington Waddington 4019 2 Waddington;NW Summit Waddington 3975 3 Waddington;The Tooth Waddington 3930* 4 Tiedemann,Mt Waddington 3838 5 Combatant Mtn(1) Waddington 3762 6 Asperity Mtn Waddington 3723 7 Serra Four Waddington 3650* 8 Serra Three Waddington 3631 9 Serra Two Waddington 3605* 10 Serra Five Waddington 3600* 11 Monarch Mtn(1) Monarch 3555 12 Serra One Waddington 3490* 13 Tellot Dome Waddington 3430* 14 Stiletto Pk Waddington 3395 15 Stiletto Needle Waddington 3375* 16 Tellot Pk Waddington 3375* 17 Spearman Pk Waddington 3370 18 Munday,Mt(1) Waddington 3356 19 Tellot Spires(1) Waddington 3356 20 Eaglehead Pk Waddington 3313 21 Grand Cappuccino Waddington 3300* 22 Queen Bess,Mt Tatlayoko 3298 23 Argewicz,Mt Waddington 3295* 24 Dragonback Pk(1): W Pk Waddington 3288 25 Bell,Mt Waddington 3269 26 Good Hope Mtn(1) Chilko 3242 27 Geddes,Mt Waddington 3227 28 Dentiform Pk(1): W Pk Waddington 3215 29 Razorback Mtn(1) Niut 3183 30 Hickson,Mt(1) Waddington 3171 31 Pagoda Pk(1) Niut 3159 32 Reliance Mtn(1) Tatlayoko 3147 33 Queen,The(1) Monarch 3145* 34 Winstone,Mt(1) Tchaikazan 3135 35 Raleigh,Mt(1) Southgate 3132 36 Cerberus Mtn Monarch 3130* 37 Grenville,Mt(1) Homathko 3126 38 Gilbert,Mt(1) Southgate 3124 39 Plummer Pk Niut 3124 40 Beast,The Tchaikazan 3115 41 Phantom Tower Waddington 3110* 42 Bravo Pk Waddington 3107 43 Beauty,The Tchaikazan 3099 44 Merriam,Mt Chilko 3099 45 Concubine Pks;S Pk Monarch 3098 46 Campbell Pk Waddington 3098 47 Shand,Mt Waddington 3096 48 Roovers,Mt Waddington 3095 49 McCormick Pk(1):W Pk Waddington 3095* 50 Agur,Mt(1) Waddington 3086 51 Fluted Mtn(1) Tchaikazan 3085* 52 Marmot Towers:Desperation Pk Tchaikazan 3084 53 Concubine Pks;N Pk Monarch 3082 54 Arabesque Pks(1) Waddington 3072 55 Dawn Treader Mtn Chilko 3071 56 Altruist Mtn(1) Tchaikazan 3064 57 Taseko Mtn Chilcotin 3063 58 Tatlow,Mt Chilcotin 3063 59 Kese,Mt Chilko 3059 60 Ottarasko Mtn Niut 3056 61 Rufous Mtn Tchaikazan 3052 62 Termination Pk Waddington 3051 63 Grenelle Mtn(1) Waddington 3047 64 Throne,The(1) Monarch 3045* 65 Snowdome,The Waddington 3045* 66 Moore,Mt(1) Tatlayoko 3044 67 Chapman,Mt(1) Tchaikazan 3043 68 Marmot Towers:Deviation Pk Tchaikazan 3041 69 Spyglass Pk Tchaikazan 3038 70 Remote Mtn Waddington 3038 71 Harmony Spire Tchaikazan 3037 72 Talchako Mtn Monarch 3037 73 Pretender,The Monarch 3035* 74 Kontlan Mtn(1) Pk Niut 3032 75 Skunk,The Tchaikazan 3031 76 Rusty Pk(1) Niut 3031 77 Jacobsen,Mt:E Pk Monarch 3031 78 Fascination Mtn Waddington 3030 79 Camel Mtn Niut 3029 80 Fulgora,Mt Lillooet 3025* 81 Beece Peak Chilcotin 3025* 82 Blackhorn Mtn Niut 3022 83 Corner Pk Tchaikazan 3019 84 Homathko Pk Tatlayoko 3017 85 Lichen Pinnacle Waddington 3017 86 Ratcliffe,Mt Monarch 3016 87 Tisiphone,Mt Lillooet 3015* 88 Beehive Pk Tchaikazan 3013 89 Daphnis,Mt Lillooet 3010* 90 Vishnu,Mt Pantheon 3008 91 Essex,Mt Tatlayoko 3006 92 Chris Spencer,Mt Waddington 3006 93 Transition Pk(1) Lillooet 3005* 94 Vic,Mt Chilcotin 3005* 95 Sierra Pk Waddington 3004 96 Discord Two Tchaikazan 2999 97 Byamee Mtn Pantheon 2998 98 Sussex,Mt Tatlayoko 2994 99 Mullen,Mt Niut 2994 100 Magma Mtn Monarch 2993

cool project, dru. i love lists. makes goal-setting a cinch... fyi, i'm at 16 of your 9,000-ers, 19 of the top 100, and 21 of 115. not that knocking off this list is "on my list"! re: details, i'd argue the stuff on the fringes of the lillooet icefields is REALLY pushing the boundaries of SWBC (i.e., weekend range from vancouver). despite kobus barnard... and btw, i reckon u need to spend a bunch of time on the BC basemap to confirm heights and priorities. you'll find the latest TRIM data quite different than a lot of the topo-mapping, and i predict your list will need to change quite a bit as a result. use a clear 100m gap to eliminate sub-summits if they get to be troublesome. cheers,

finally available! sorry to keep you waiting so long... *** 468 pages, abt 450 routes/variations on abt 225 summits. *** just under 200 photos, about 150 of which are topo-photos with routelines. *** intro info on access/cost/communications, geology, history, alpine grades, recommended routes, etc. *** covers twist creek/frontier ck (N) to klinaklini river (W) to franklin glacier/scar creek (S) to mosley ck/homathko river (E). *** crazy ck, frontier, remote, franklin, jester, scar ck, munday, waddington, tiedemann, serra-stiletto, upper tellot, claw, cataract, and traverse subsections. *** 2002 new route update included. available in seattle at feathered friends and the mountaineers; REI is still playing games. also MEC, etc in vancouver; valhalla pure and climb on in squamish; and elsewhere. see www.elaho.ca for further info. generally retailing at about $45. cheers,

i'm sitting in toronto without access to my maps, but i'd say tinniswood - long, low-angled NE rock ridge, steep rock S face. nice peak, eh? attracted my attention from various points in garibaldi park too. there's no way in hell you can see QB (or wadd) from wedge. the furthest peaks in the NW, on a crystalline day, are in the tchaikazan. cheers, don p.s. so far as i am aware, the closest point to vancouver from which u can see wadd is ashlu...

way back in days of yore, the ruth-sefrit crossover used to be a popular semi-technical alpine outing, at least with vancouver-based climbers. one nite out, i believe. anybody still do this?

how can u possibly imagine u won't meet ice climbers in kamloops. the outdoor education dept in cariboo college is full of them. phone iain stewart-patterson. and there are "citizen" climbers in kamloops too. call up garry brace. and people are coming up from vancouver every weekend. tons of possibilities... cheers, don