Don_Serl

the guidebook say 5ºC to 8ºC. i suspect that difference is true when "normal" winter weather is in effect, and considerably less when the big warm fronts overwhelm the whole area. right now [6pm Friday], Lillooet shows 2ºC, Cache Ck 5ºC, and Clinton (which i usually reckon is closer to Marble Canyon conditions because of altitude and interior position) is 0ºC. not exactly the best ice-making weather. and you can believe what oldgoat says... cheers, don

not dis'n ya Don ....314 GBP is more like 550 USD, I assume that is what you meant apologies - calculated USD560, typed 360. didn't proof-read well enuf... oops, don

the finest of the bunch is the Terra Nova (formerly Wild Country) Mountain Gemini. see: http://www.gear-zone.co.uk/eshop/Terra-Nova-Mountain-Gemini.html about the same footprint (82.5" x 47"), but low (37.5"). pretty much the same wt (4.1lbs). nearly the same cost (GBP314 = USD360). the major advantage to the external polesleeves is that the tent can be properly guyed out in a storm. i've lived thru a couple doozies, and once this sucker is properly tensioned it will withstand just about anything. blow hard on an internally poled tent, and the whole thing just lies down flat in your face and flaps, cuz u can't guy it - there's nothing to pull against without "popping" whatever system holds the poles to the canopy. the major disadvantages to the Gemini are: 1. it's really small inside, and feels moreso cuz of the low ceiling (which does however decrease the windage). 2. there's no bug-net, so it's shit in the summer (altho u can pack along a 2m chunk of net and drape it over the awning - pretty funky...) pros and cons: 3. the ID has better ventilation. but the Gemini has a tougher floor... 4. it's probably easier in a storm to get a tent with internal poles up, cuz one person can climb inside to hold the whole flapping mess on the ground while erecting the poles. but (see earlier point) it tends to stay a flapping mess even after it's up. and i have managed to erect the Mtn Gemini a cpl times in pretty rough weather. 5. i once in my life had a problem with poles freezing into external pole-sleeves (rainy winter evening turning to clear super-cold nite). this would never be an issue with internal poles. having said at the outset that i reckon the Mtn Gemini is the best, if i had it to do all over again i'd probably buy the Integral Mk2XL, just to get the extra 4" length. the Bibler Eldorado similarly adds 5" length. ya, it adds close to a pound, but the space is worthwhile for the comfort. not so much of an issue if you're 5'10" or less. cheers, don

the ID is a real dark horse - hardly anyone knows about them, cuz Integral don't budget for the publicity/advertising that the "big" companies do. but i've had one for years, and use it lots, with good results. i like the big, loose, forgiving fit, and i think the knit cuffs are absolutely great - simple, clean fitting, and always snug enuf to prevent drafts. the major problem for your use (ski mtneering) is that the patch material on the shoulders, etc is poorly chosen - it's a taslan-type fabric and snow clings to it. i solved that problem on a spring trip a few years ago by cutting all that fabric off the jacket. it's lighter and works better now! i recently shared a DAS parka back and forth with a friend for a day of ice climbing, and i thought it was a really well designed jacket - nice hood, nice pocketing, practical sizing. cheers, don

nice. perfection in minimalism. here's a variation on the theme, which i've used twice. it's quite useful in the mtns, where you might have rock gear and maybe not "the hook": back the head down off a wired nut and use the resulting loop of wire to retrieve the cord. works best if u give the wire a half-twist to "bind" the end of the cord before extracting. advantage is that it's far easier to insert into the hole than the doubled-sling. cheers, don

...and the forecast is today 8/2 cloudy, and tues 7/3 showers. finally cools back out a bit for: weds 1/0 rain or snow; thurs: 2/-6 cloudy; and fri: -1/-6 light snow. then warmish and wet again: sat 0/-3 rain or snow; sun 0/-2 freezing rain. not attractive ice climbing temps, but quite an unmitigated disaster (yet) - the Duffey and Marble Canyon are high enough to stay below freezing except over the "hot streak" 3 or 4 days, but the "valley" climbs will be pretty effing wet. pure boredom probably will cause me to drive up at new years to "have a look". i have plenty of space in the truck for spare sets of gloves - i'll need 'em! cheers, don

jesse, actually, it wasn't so much about l-o-v-e... we didn't find the access too bad - mostly we followed traces of your tracks, and/or drew and steve's. if i recall, it was left side initially, then in the streambed, then left side again, then bed, then right (up and across a short boulder slope), then (key!) straight back across to left. then there is a fairly open band thru the alders just right of the fall-line from snakes and ladders. and you've got the various routes correctly ID'ed. interestingly, Yellow Flow (which barely sees the sun this time of year) had built quite a bit; SaL (more exposed) was nearly unclimbably eroded by the week of sun. p.s. there was another party of 3 on Labyrinth earlier in the day. getting a bit of traffic... cheers, don

Climb: Box Canyon-Yellow Flow, Labyrinth Date of Climb: 12/18/2005 Trip Report: as i suspected, the Festering Wall and Mr Natural Wall have been totally fzcked by the past week of sunshne. and Grim Reaper is still running and thin. so we climbed Yellow Flow (easy, but thin for the first 10m, so needed care - also, note this route is only 80m (1 1/2 pitches), not 140m as per WCI). then we traversed to the Labyrinth Wall - very nice, lots of options, good ice, trees at 20m to TR from, no sun. led a very steep 15m 2-step pillar on the left, then TR'ed that and other stuff further right. made for a good day. approach is not too bad - kinda wander left or right side, depending on which is clearer of bush, and up the drainage when neither side looks good. then straight up-slope to Snakes and Ladders flow. can traverse left to Yellow Flow or up and right to Labyrinth from there. (however, there'll now be fresh snow to deal with...) in fact, i enjoyed the walking so much that i left my insulated jacket at the base of Labyrinth and had to dash back in and out to retrieve it. 55 mins car-to-car... cheers, don Gear Notes: a cpl shorties were useful. Approach Notes: skipoles help. so does patience...

Last weekend a party parked on the highway right at the corner on the hill opposite the "walk-down" for Synchronicity. The road at this point is narrow and there is no shoulder (or even much of a ditch) to get off onto, with a cliff restricting the "land" side and a cement retaining wall on the outside. Plus the parking position is not visible to downhill traffic coming around the "blind" corner until the last moment. While the party were descending from the climb, the RCMP went into action, and it was only a prompt retreat to the vehicle and a long conversation that resulted in the penalty being a ticket rather than having the vehicle towed away. West Coast Ice advises that "most parties now park a few hundred metres west up the Duffey [from the bridge at 13km]... and walk uphill a couple hundred metres" - there is a wider spot where the cliff peters out, with a bit of a shoulder and a ditch to allow one to get the vehicle pretty clearly off the travelled portion of the road. This has been common practice for several years, with no issues with the police or Highways personnel. I was concerned that this incident marked either a change in policy (or judgement) on the part of the RCMP, or that alternatively by parking in an unwise location the party has now "sensitized" the RCMP to parking in this locale, and that enforcement in the future will be different than in the past. I phoned the Lillooet RCMP detachment to clarify, and I was told that when you park, both lanes must be left completely clear and traffic flow must not be restricted. I was also told that the RCMP usually only tickets parking violations, and that towing is only considered when the parking position threatens safety. Both actions are judgement calls by the officer. Personnel are aware of the inconvenience (and even danger) posed by "stranding" someone, which further reduces the impetus to tow someone. In short, this was a bad choice of parking locations, and there is no "global" change. So long as you get your vehicle WELL off the travelled portion of the road, you'll PROBABLY be OK at the wide spot about 300m east of the corner (altho, to repeat, this is a judgement call, so no guarantees). If there is a lot of snow and/or ongoing snowfall, be aware that active plowing requires extra clearance for the plows, and behave appropriately. If in doubt, either park at the pull-outs at the bridge (1.1km distant, and 90m below) or at the crest to the west (1.0km distant, and 80m higher). We parked at the bridge and it took just 15 minutes to walk up to the curve. cheers, don p.s. if you choose to park down at the bridge, my judgement would be that it will take roughly the same time to walk the north-side creekbank to the gully below the route as it will to walk up the road (15mins), descend to the creek (10 mins), and shinney across the log (10 mins), even considering the 200m or so of slide debris that you need to cross on the north-sdie route. and on the way out, you don't face the trudge 70m or 80m back up the hill to regain the highway. your choice...

that's Politically Correct Valentine, and it has been climbed already this season. i don't think the Plum has been completed to the top, but the bottom tiers have had at least a cpl parties. the Rambles are apparently in fun shape. Synchronicity has been done a few times. there is apparently lots of ice on the left side of the lower tier at Marble Canyon, but much running water further right. i was up on the Duffey on Tuesday (climbed and TR'ed the Tube), and i'd have to say that while there is decent ice around, the whole area felt a bit "lean" and/or "dry" to me. the main drainages were OK, but there was virtually no ice on any of the lesser weeps. we'll see how that plays out as the season develops. cheers, don

the woman who owns the property is quite friendly and very pleasant to talk to, but there have been a number of traumas in her life (the details of which are not important to this discussion), and since she (quite reasonably and correctly) views ice climbing as dangerous, she doesn't want the possibility of an accident in her back-yard. as the guidebook says, "please respect their wishes and climb elsewhere". cheers, don

comments: a. if the ice really is as you describe, i.e., considerably thinner than the ice screw is long, i can't imagine ANY of the proposed placement options holding. b. bob's comment is dead-on. if you look around lots, think about it, and work at it, you usually can get a decent placement, even in pretty poor ice. straight down often works for me when horizontal doesn't. c. if you're on a "shell" of ice, you might well be able to knock a fist-sized hole thru the ice, girth-hitch the middle of the screw, insert the whole works, and "T-slot" the screw. any impact force will be spread over a FAR greater surface area this way than it would be with a "screwed" screw, and i suspect (as with crappy anchors in snow) the holding power might be surprisingly reasonable. d. if you can't get pro, either just keep your shit together and climb the thing "solo", or come down - there's no dishonor in backing off, and there's a lasting stigma to dying! cheers, don

the nob on the end of the shaft on most "modern" tools will interfere with this function. but, in the old days, i used to carry a couple U-bolts with wingnuts and washers, sized to fit the shaft of my iceaxe, with holes drilled thru a deadman so as to function as a shovel. you cld probably fritz something together using this concept. it's a great idea to avoid duplicating weight on flat aluminum objects. or tubular, for that matter... cheers, don

the other good news is that the wthr network has Clinton staying pretty cold for the next 2 weeks; temp has been to -20ºC, but getting a bit more clement around the 8th/9th. continuing significantly below historical average. see:http://www.weather.ca/weather/14day/pages/CABC0060.htm i agree with oldgoat - wait a week, give the ice a chance... cheers,

N face W Lion, up Harvey Ck from Lions Bay. cheers,

did u have the bails gripped in a vise? if so, u can usually apply enuf force to bend 'em - go easy, bit by bit, and section by section. and the vise jaws themselves do a good job, if u need to "ease" the curve... and treknclimb points out another useful trick - sometimes the boots need a bit of persuasion too, especially to get a good, deep, solid fit at the toe. a thin, coarse rat-tail file works, altho a dremel wld be much faster. i'm size 11 1/2 or 12, and i find i usually have to attack the sides of the heels to allow the heel-bails to flip up unimpeded. good luck, cheers,

i reckon all of these have been mentioned, but... the best on-line source for backcountry Coast Range of BC info is: http://www.bivouac.com/ membership is required to get beyond skimming (cdn$25/yr), but for anyone who wants to get "beyond the guidebooks" this site is invaluable. i spend more time cruising/researching/daydreaming the BC Basemap than any other source: http://maps.gov.bc.ca/ then click the "Provinical Basemap" link. ice climbing weather for Lillooet, Marble Canyon (see Clinton...), etc is available from the gov't: http://www.weatheroffice.ec.gc.ca/canada_e.html or private enterprise: http://www.weather.ca/weather/cities/indexbc.htm cheers, don

not to make light of your loss, john, but it appears you are breeding them, so you'll have new ones soon anyway... (good luck, cheers, don)

depends whether you mean a pack for CLIMBING ice with, or a (so-called) "ice-climbing" pack for approaching ice climbs. pretty much anything works for the second category. i can see a 40L pack being a bit small for approaching ice routes, but surely you don't CLIMB with something like that one your back. seems to me there was a thread on this topic a year or so ago, but to restate my opinion, all you want to climb with is a jacket, a thermos, a snack, a headlamp, some rap tape, and spare gloves and/or mitts. the MEC Blitz Crag works fine for me - nearly the same size as the BD Bullet, and half the price. it's tiny, so it fits in the middle of your back with no interference with your swing. a few changes improve (lighten) it: 1. cut out the inside back panel (unless you use it for a water bladder)- there'll never be a piece of foam in it. 2. hack off the sternum straps - it's tiny, you don't need to "work" to keep the straps on your shoulders, and they only get in the way and restrict upper body movement. 3. cut off the hipbelt - there'll never be much weight in the pack, and it's actually nice to have the pack floating totally "free" on your back when you're in motion - plus they also just get in the way. leave the "big" pack, whatever it is, on the ground. cheers, don

we could get into a great session of "when I was a kid..." here, but suffice to say that i can claim to be pretty "old skewl" too. my favorite cameras are 20 and 30 year-old Olympuses; i still wear Helly Hansen pile from time to time when i want to be REALLY warm in REALLY crappy weather; my favorite crampons all-time are/were Chouinard Rigids (altho i finally gave them up 2 years ago when i suffered frame breakage). BUT... ice climbing is as much about application of technology to solving the problem as it is about technique, strength, experience, and mental focus. while it's certainly true that one CAN climb very hard ice with straight shafted tools (Jeff Marshall and Larry Ostrander climbed Riptide with Stubai Tyrols, etc, etc...), it is also absolutely undeniable that it is easier, faster, more secure, safer, warmer, and less energy-consuming to do the same routes with modern curved-shafted tools. a short story - maybe 15 years or so ago i had the pleasure of spending a day climbing at Squamish with a visitor, a delightful gentleman named Stuart Rich, from Eugene Oregon. Stuart was then in his early 70s. he told me he could lead 5.7 or 5.8, and follow 5.9. we climbed Diedre, but i did the direct start, a full runout at 5.9/5.10a, which he followed IN ROBBINS BOOTS (stiff-soled klettershoes, for those of you too young to know), totally nailed to the rock, in perfect body position the entire time and without a single slip. he was obviously a superb climber, and i urged him to get out and buy some "modern" climbing shoes, with the assurance he'd be flashing 5.10s. i heard back from him about 3 months later - he'd taken the advice, and sure enough, he was firing off 5.10s with ease. sobo, we don't know each other, and it's a bit presumptuous to give others advice, but i gotta say that from the sound of it you've got a LOT more in you than your "old skewl" tools are revealing. i have to disagree with the statement that it's "all about good technique", etc - in ice climbing, the tools really do come with limitations. get out there and buy "swanky curved shaft tools" - they won't make you a "better" climber, but you'll climb harder stuff all the same. and enjoy it doing it more! p.s. my estimation of myself as an ice climber seems to indicate that while better tools themselves won't make you a "better" climber, they allow and encourage better, more advanced, more adventurous technique, and you end up "better" as a result. not all change is progress, but LACK of change is a frequent underlying factor in lack of progress... enjoy your winter. cheers, don

Lowell, Mr. Watson sounds like an interesting character, whom I have no interest in belittling. However, I must point out that a brief review of the chronology of events on the mountain indicates he did NOT make the 4th ascent of Waddington. 1st ascent: Weissner and House, 1936 - FA SW face. 2nd ascent: Beckey and Beckey, 1942 - via SW face. 3rd ascent: Cook, Houston, Long, de Saussure, 1950 - FA Bravo Glacier route. 4th ascent: Bettler, Steck, 1950 - FA NE face. 5th ascent: Bitterlich, Bitterlich, Meier, Owen, Schiel; 1958 - via Bravo Glcr route [1st Canadian ascent]. 6th ascent: Boyko, Fickeiesen, Jackson, Jacques, Latz, Magnussen; Aug 4, 1960 - via Bravo Glcr route [seattle Mountaineers]. 7th ascent: a "climbing party which included Mountaineers Tim Kelley and Franz and Virginia Mohling"; after August 7th, 1960 - also via Bravo Glacier [1st female ascent]. The only reference to this ascent (the 7th) appears in passing in the midst of the Fickeisen/Gunnar report on their trip (which included the 6th ascent). No other names appear anywhere. Because of the interesting fact that this party included the first female to climb Waddington, I made attempts to track members down during my research for preparation of The Waddington Guide, but I was unsuccessful. I presume Mr. Watson was a member of this party? Thanks for any clarification that you can provide. Anybody got a contact for Virginia Mohling? Cheers,

Jim and Kit resorted to the chopper on about their 8th winter attempt - prior goes had been on foot. I've been in there 3 times on foot in winter; once when John and Perry and I climbed the N couloir (about 7 hrs approach; a bit thru and above the basin on small snowshoes); twice for attempts on the NEB (both easy day approaches - once failed at the N face traverse 1/3 way up, the other time had to abandon a bivy and run for the valley at 3 a.m. when it started to snow hard on our bivy right at the bottom, on the initial bypass traverse - didn't want to drown in spindrift - chickenshit, actually...). several other parties have been in, on foot in winter, to try the Heart of Darkness. also Arctic Wing obviously got done au pied... i kinda agree with your assessment that a lot of it can be drytooled, but that applies most to the upper sections. don't underestimate the lower part of the route. Joe Buszowski took a (short) fall on the 5.8 steppy section low down, above our first (only) bivy i backed off the pitch leading to the rightwards traverse (which Joe then led), and we eventually quit when i led a long dihedral with one piece at about 15m and nothing else in the entire ropelength - and no belay to be found, despite digging at every possibility for the upper 10m or 15m of the pitch. eventually i simply had to climb back down... maybe bolts aren't such a bad idea... have fun, cheers,

done long ago by the late great Trevor Peterson and co. and in totally proper style too: they climbed the face first, then skied it. cheers,

From Dawn to Decadence, by Jacques Barzun totally puts the last 500 years of western culture into perspective. way too heavy for camp fodder tho... cheers,

yowzers... that's it alright... just COMPLETELY out of scale... man!!!