Beck

Aluminum crampons, Ushbai Titanium ice axe, buy a light, light pack, get that 9.4, and forego the stove if it isn't winter, you'll eventually get used to the taste of cold instant coffee, albeit calling it coffee at that point is really a stretch of reality. Who cares how much it costs? Eat Ramen at home and go to the food bank to help further your gear budget!

Well, okay, Geordie, umm, it's with Teddy Ruxpin, alright... I've got to get some action somehow!!!

Just a note to all of us climbers out here who might bre interested in giving something back, there is a Mountaineering Oriented First Aid Instructors' course being offered in Seattle at The Red Cross Office, Oct 23 thru Nov 27, Tues and Thurs nights 6-10 at a cost of only $40- call the Red Cross at 206-726-3534 or respond to this thread if you have any ??? Beck

I've got a date at Thirteen Coins at Seatac, if any one wants to join us!!! Sorry, maybe next week for Beckey boy.

I think all climbers need to approach the vertical wilderness with a bit more conservation minded action...people complain about permits in the Enchantments or blue bags and restrictions on the volcanoes, but how long would unregulated use take to totally trash those alpine environment? I beleive it's selfish, self centered and very unfair to future climbers to assume what we're doing now is going to be okay and acceptable to FUTURE generations of climbers.

get real drunk and fall off a roof, helps keep you limber for falls at the crags.

No kids for me yet, Dru.. most chicks fall for Teddy's flirtatious gaze and the sparkle in his eyes and drop me like a hot potato!! I still love him though, just wish he'd share the booty sometimes!

thanks Cavey, it's a lot more than just that, sometimes you get coffee and a doughnut if you're lucky!!!

Let us not forget about the next generations of climbers...

Isn't the mer de glace up in Greenland 1000 feet thick, David?

My mistake on the decades, it was only twenty years ago so that makes it the eighties, right? (My, how time flies...) I suspect these are the same two climbers, they found this tube sock sling above the Mazama Glacier on ridge, my beta's a bit second hand as I'm just a SAR lunkhead..."How high do I need to jump, sir?" The sherriff's office organized a search earlier this summer as well, don't remember the names of the missing, one of the fellas there was on the original search, he thought the prevailing winds would have pushed them in the direction of the Mazama Glace, as we all know, you get pushed away from your intended direction when the winds are howlin' and the spindrift feels like needles. Philfort might know more about the specifics, he was up on the August search as well.

I'm sticking to writing about my good pal Teddy Rux, you might have climbed with him, Dru! With the low snow year in the NW there was more evidence found on Mount Adams that (in)conclusively showed the last resting place of these two climbers missing from the sixties... sling made with tube socks(!!!) on a nubbin above a cliff band off the S ridge, head band, remains of (probably) tent material melting out of 'scrhrund.. but nothing at all like the evidence found in NZ... mostly the search team I was on walked around on refrigerator sized blocks of unsettled boulders as more popped off the cliff above the glacier... I think theie bodies are under 30 feet of rockfall and will not be found but the family still grieves.

Mount Analogue reveals itself only to those open to the thosophist nature of mountaineering, usually hidden from ordinary view by rational doubt. Problay twern't.

... Yvon Chounard's fundamental reason for developing chocks and stoppers( as well as Frost, etc..) was the environmental impact PITONS were causing at the crags- flakes were dropping of the big walls in YOS and altering the nature of the big walls. He saw much more intrinsic environmental climbing styles in the Brits, who used natural protection, chockstones, slings on chickenheads, tape assisted slinging, also not running out a rope but using belay stances if they were even 40 feet apart. He mentions classic British climbs as having polished holds but no human damage vs. piton scars ruining American rock. The issues of sport vs. trad is not a black and white issue, but generally, I think with any wilderness area, it is not US who are the end users, it is our children, and their children,etc. The most important thing we can do as climbers is... protect the vertical environment for future generations. "Fostering stewardship of the vertical environment" Was it Aldo Leopold who said " The true value of wilderness lies... not in Daniel Boone's time, or ours, but in the future." sorry about the lousy paraphrasing, I don't have any of my lit at work.

Ice dam burst under the glacier, prob. Glacier settles, active calving.

I think it's giardia from all that untreated water everyone's been drinking!! Freeze dried food is a definite culprit, shouldn't be eating this overpriced styrofoam unless your trips' going to be more than 5 days, pack good stuff instead, I've usually got fresh veggies for the first three days, always accounts for the heaviest bulk weight in my pack.

Imitation Bac-os for salt replacement with snickers bars, peanuts or sesame snack crackers,oatmeal or granola, tang and cold instant coffee for breakfast

The car/truck that gets you out there is the one you want to own- an advantage to 4 wheel drive with snow tires is the mounties will let you roll right on through any chainup station they've got going on, saves you time/hassle. I'm in agreement with David Parker about the sleeping in your car bit- what a substandard way to spend the night (not that I haven't done it, like when I brought the wrong set of tent poles on a winter trip) sleeping in a car is like sleeping at home, with a humidifier running full blast- I think it's people who are scared of CREATURES OF THE NIGHT!! Watch out, it's the boogeyman!!! Why do you want to sleep AT the trailhead? No trooper's going to look for you if you're even 200 yards up the trail tucked in a cranny somewhere. California excepted, I bet the YOS LEO have night vision/infrared goggles to detect unauthorized camping!

Are we spraying again? Teddy Ruxpin

Blue Star Pub is located in Wallingford conveinetly located between I-5 and highway 99- Take I-5 N or S or Hiway 99 N or S, get off on the 45th street exits (for Hiy 99 it's like the zoo exits or something like that. Head West if from I-5, east if 99 Blue Star pub is almost at the corner of 45th and Stone Way. Intersection has Mcdonalds and Wash State Liquor Store, Blue Star is right next to Liquor Store to N- hope to see some of you there!! Beck

Hey, Cavey, not the SPD here in Seattle now, they've taken to flaunting this in light of the WTO demonstrations, they were observed at a WTO anniversary march with badge numbers and nametags "convienently" hidden under retroflective vests or other equipment, enough so that there are suits against the SPD at this time. Refusing to identify oneself as an officer of the peace may becomming more standard operating procedure in more jurisdictions, probably on an individual basis- if a LEO is an asshole to citizens, maybe he's got more personal reasons to not to identify themselves. Sorry to all the bros that got harrassed, this truly sounds lame. Not to fan the fires of dissent but I personally believe in paying the 25 bucks a year- call me a toe the line citizen, but if the Gov says pay to play, the only rational recourse is to pay to play- they tell us how much tax we pay, it is a bummer but that's America for you- I know the timber. gas and ranchers are subsidized in the wilderness and we are not, but look at the disastarous effects a group of citizens had on Washington States budget when Tim Eyman's little "free lunch" initives got passed by the citiznry- they said, no car tabs, look what an imbroglio our state's ferries, roads, etc have become- I guess there's no money to fund highways and roads this year and the legislature doesn't go back to session until January- I know the Forest recreation parking pass fund doesn't help climbers much but at the same time 25 does not equal 150 - sorry to hear about all the hassles at the SC parking lot, dudes!!

I've seen good parents and bad parents in the outdoors, thanking my lucky stars I'm not a parent as the job looks very challenging. As to Bronco's post on hauling a kid screaming "NOO DADDY!" across the Cowlitz, It sounds like he just turned his kid off from an enjoyable future in climbing. Good, job, Buddy. You let your "summit dreams" totally terrorize your daughter.

Listen, dudes, I KNOW Teddy, and there's no way he'd hang out in Stamford, Conneticut! Teddy does think I'm a total hack climber who should stick to climbing out of wet paper sacks before I try anything harder, he got the wrong idea on "She's GGGonna blow" and I figure he's still out there, climbing hard, sending evil routes- he doesn't even care about getting his name claim on first ascents...

Hey, Greg, your friend needs a basic backpacking tent for the PNW? TNF slick rock isn't light or good for the NW when it's raining. Mountain Hardware approach? pretty heavy, way overbuilt if you're backpacking. I've got to recommend any of the conestoga style hoop tents manufactured by various manufacturers. She can buy a solo hoop tent under 3 pounds or a two person under 4 lbs. The Walrus Zoid series are very nice hoop tents and light, plus they have a wide side door you can just roll out of and the vestibule can become an awning if you want a sheltered porch. Again, very light. As for stormworthiness, you can guyline these hoop tents out and get a pretty bomber tent-I've seen guys camping out at Castle Saddle out in the Tatoosh with a Sierra Designs clip flashlight fly w/o body and they dug it in as a floorless tent, sure withstood some wicked winds that night. most mountain look backpackers tents have too much weight and bells and whistles. I'd totally recommend she try out a tarp or inexpensive shelter like the BD betamid to save $$$ and shave even more pounds while backpacking

The ropeup was a ROCKING good time, much thanks to all of you that found Bridge Creek Campground and made it to the event, wouldn't of been a party without you! What happened? Well, a bunch of climbers got togther in the woods and partied hard, climbed harder (or was it just the afteraffects of all that beer?). Some of us forgot their beer, some their stash, we were batter lite first thing Sunday morn (Where were you, Lisa? we saw you earlier) Some forgot how to climb, someone forgot their prussiks when they REALLY could have used em', but all in all the Fall Ropeup was damn fine. We had a round of night climbing done by the bros that just couldn't stop climbing when the sun went down. Pancake feast on Sunday morning, We had the good doctor's advice that breakfast links are actually good for you. Someone made WAY TOO MUCH coffee both mornings, we were collectively VERY wired Saturday morning. Dave and myself pulled knapweed Sunday afternoon and dropped a bunch of bags off to the Ranger Office, hoping for some positive PR for climbers in Icicle Canyon, as it's a pretty delicate spot as far as access for dirtbags is concerned. I'm guessing the ranger DavidParker mentions isn't that fond of climber types, personally I think we degrade the environment a lot less than horse packers and ORV users, but such it is. And to those of you that didn't make it, we were waiting for you and definetly ready to accomodate all, even newbies. We had ropes and riggers ready to set up some nice toprope problems for all to enjoy,sorry more of you didn't come out.Maybe you can make the Spring Ropeup. Many thanks again to those of you that showed up, hope to see you at the next big shindig!!