Beck

Cave, I can pick you up if you can meet at the I-90/405 park n ride, I'll try not to drink as much as you to ensure relative driving safety! Beck

SomeWhere Beyond Comprehension, a lesser known route up the middle buttress of Mount Analogue!

For any Seattlites wanting to do some schmoozin' and boozin' tomorrow at the Swiss, I'm driving, leaving town 6:30, will pick up if you're south of the ship canal or Ballard Fre Wall U dist- give me a page 253-274-3963- Beck

Looks like Teddy Ruxpin's next "first ascent!!" Wwwrrrow!

I was up at Snoq pass yesterday, the not necessarily accurate beta I got was he slipped traversing on smooth slap going underneath middle peak towards north peak, snow slush on slab a contributing factor.

Dwayner, how'd you do in the Ironman?

I'm there dudes, where?

Uh, is Darhma right about sitting in front of his computer on a weekend mentally masturbating about climbing? Or about being frustrated and spewing vile invective at other well structured posts on this thread? (I'm working, don't even own one of this infernal time wasters, but it's on company time so...) whoops, this thread's degenerating quick!!

I believe one of the reasons Petzl introduced the Reverso was to accomodate and encourage belaying off the anchors for people unfamiliar with a munter hitch and removing the belayer from the anchor "chain" setup; also, to assist gym climbers to make the transition to cragging and outdoor climbing safer...it is a way SAFER device than a munter hitch,inasmuch as safety can be inherent in the design of a belay device...

"Back when I lived in the Great Basin of the American West, going out on a double date meant four cowboys in a pickup." "Back when I was a young climber, we thought getting into a diaper seat meant attaching webbing to a set of pampers." Beck

Sorry, duplicate post- [This message has been edited by Beck (edited 10-13-2001).]

Freeheeling allows for touring in mixed terrain without changing ANYTHING with your setup. No clipping in to turn down an 80ft bump in the terrain. You can parallel turn in tele gear, you cannot tele in Rando gear(for any length of time/torque) In addition, the spped of touring on freeheel equipment is unmatched by any AT or snowboard/snowshoe setup- Also the weight factor. I ski in medium weight leather boots and don't have any problem cutting turns down from Camp Muir or shredding 40 degree slopes or skiing crud/ice- I still haven't gone to plastic boots, but I don't ski lift, Does this make tele BETTER? No. I believe it is the most asthetically pure mode of winter transport around.

"If we had some ham, we could have some ham and eggs, if we had some eggs."

Chounard toepiece was designed for approaches, not tele descents. Make one out of wood, can't be that difficult.

Thanks for checking it out Bronco, I'm just spewing my rational against using daisys in a belay anchor setup, I know lots of people do it and take falls on them, I'm just way cautious- by the way, does anyone see beta from manufacturers, not REI salesdudes, that a daisy is recommended in a belay anchor? /as an edit, I must have confused in my memory individual loops @3kn approx 800 lbs as total daisy chain strength, not total strength of daisy as runner,my mistake [This message has been edited by Beck (edited 10-12-2001).]

Take a short prussik, wrap loaded end of rope, clip to anchor point and lower load onto prussik to anchor. This will free up Reverso and give you rope slack to rig proper lower.

A daisy chain shouldn't be used in any part of an anchor setup as daisy chains rate at 6-800 lb breaking strength-will not take eeven 10 kiloneutons in a dynamic event- webbolette, cordalette, long runners or rope is preferred. Use of Daisys should be limited to body weight hangs off anchor points with seperate belay setup, aiding or clipping gear in at belay stance. My 2 tarnished cents.

Matt, I'll be ordering a copy of the Access Fund's Climbing Management book and will loan it to you when it arrives,this could be something they address.

Okay, dudes and dudettes, I'll have to admit, those ladies are HOT!!! but part of what makes them so sexy is they are confident, accomplished and driven in the pursuit of what they love, not a couch potato in the bunch. I think active, vital, passionate women are hot regardless because,as we all know, true beauty is in the heart. A nice set of legs doesn't hurt, though!

The snow out here in the NW is FAB, I haven't had a problem finding powder MOST weekends out here; Look for powder in glades of big trees, small stuff, too(you just have to be real snappy!) north facing slopes and terrain traps(although I urge caution to those of you who try that) If it's slushy, GO HIGHER! even at snoq pass, try the back sides around Nordic/ Windy pass, not at the lifts. And I am biased, but to fully enjoy the freedom of the hills you must free the heels.

Ya Ya I'm sure it's UIAA spec so strength isn't the issue, I thought the tooth pattern extends way too close to the shaft on the Grivel Air Techs, maybe a real rope chewer...IMO. I've got a Grivel Pamir I use sometimes, seems plenty light, I don't own the Ushbai but picked one up at Nelson's shop and thought, DAMN this is lite!

Ushbai Titanium axe feels NOTHING like a toy, I wouldn't want to do much boot axe belaying on a Grivel race but thats's just IMO. Plus, no spike! wierd... weight savings, albeit minor... smallest diameter cord for prussiks, get an actual webolette for slinging belay stations, 9/16" webbing vs 1", use gear sling as sling, also prussiks as slings if not on glacier (not vertical rock but snow/ice)light boots, no gaiters(get pants with good leg openings)etc' etc' Chounard said something like "...when packing, take out what you can, then take out more...till nothing can be left behind."

Cavey, come join me one weekend this winter on backcountry ski patrol down at Mount Rainier, it's hella fun! We'll be having a free ave seminar sometime this fall, I'll let you know about when it is...We'll teach you how to interp a hasty pit and do a rutschblock, safety first, bro!

If anyone wants a current copy of the American Safe Climbing Association's latest newsletter PM me and I will send you one, I've got some leftover from the Fall Ropeup. Their mission is to REPLACE deteriorated bolts and rap stations at ALREADY BOLTED climbing areas, they've replaced thousands throughout YOS valley and Smith Rocks, as well as Devil's Lake Wisconsin. as far as I know they DO NOT advocate new bolting, rather keeping the Vert world safe from unsafe bolts.

"Hey, I must have left the stove in the car.. here, try some cold instant coffee..."