Beck

Scott will be showing slides from 5 of him most impactful trips, including the 2000 assault of the Czech direct route on McKinley, as well as some Canadian Rockies and S.A. trips spanning two decades of climbing. His focus with this slide show (from how he explained it to me, my apologies, Scott, if i don't get this right) is the importance of mentors in the climbing world, how climbing would not be where it was today if it weren't for the old guard passing down the secrets,showing other climbers the ropes, so to speak.

the antibott plate would be bigger than a cramp footprint, there would be slots at front and rear to hold retainer clamps, maybe some for the side rails of the forefoot, and the user would fit them to rails, then trim to fit. Think about it, it's not that hard. sorry, i forgot about the g-10 light. And you forgot to mention Marmot as a store that can help climbers with special orders of grivel products, mr. new mammut rep, whoever you are.

no, no, ray, i like the approach on the beta spew, very cutting edge. seriously.

grivel could make universal antibott plates that fit any makers crampon (trim to fit or something) the Jorasses is a great t-rated tool, also the compact third, very nice item. I'm thinking the compact third is a grivel, trying to remember... not making a ultralight aluminum cramp is a serious oversight, given the current US "golite" craze- also, an autolocking stitch plate would be nice, they are out there, but not popular here.

the captain, he is so back cavey, you want to be one of the speakers at this years' ropeup/ I think that approach would be a great standup routine- the Dennis miller of climbing. "So you thought a WI8+ would get the topless shoeshine girls in vancouver to give you a 'final polish' on the house?- they don't want to see your capilene stanking unshaven hard body, they're more into short overweight koreans with a rolex presidential, a condo in bannf, and kimchee stuck in their teeth than wax the rod of a dirtbag climber like you!" ray, will you do it ? If we give you a microphone, will you berate the crowd?

as an alternative superlite bivy, equinox manufacturer will be offering a 6.6 oz silicone impregnated bivy, $59.95. look for them at Marmot this summer.

usually, fleb, anything submitted or published in a venue as such, is still the copyright of the artist. However, once you have submitted or published in media, that media reserves the right to future publications, sans compensation, unless you were savvy enough to get a single use contract signed before you submit artistic works. and as for quoting people in a guidebook, pulling things off a web site does NOT count as a "quote;" you need to get that direct from the poster. for example; 'As Dan - stated in his account of a record breaking climb of Rainier, " i thought i could pull the wool over everyone's eyes' is not considered to be factual enough for quoting. You need to get quotes direct from the source, and not off the internet.

start climbing on the damn thing NOW, don't wait another five years.... some industry rope manufacturers reccommend replacing a rope, even unused, after five years, but that's not an appropiate dirtbag climbers option. Something to do with offgassing of the nylon and a reduction in the elasticity/ higher impact force to pro & climber correllation. my reccommendation? climb on, climb now, and climb hard on the rope, and then retire it according to your feel for the hand and catch of it. How did a rope go five years without getting climbed on , anyway?

uncle tricky, thats' farkin hilarious!

What a phat phabilous time last night! Kudos to Mattp, the slide presenters, and all attendees... one of the funnest CC.com events. three cheers to Mattp, hip hip hooray! I think the police were busy last night with the "biker" crowd at Teddy's, I don't know if thats weekly or monthly event, but if we were to time Magnuson park events with the Teddy's bike night, it may be a largely LEO free party.

ya, Holly, nice to see you're still in the area- hows the pooch? Hows your place? Hope to see you at a pub club sometime.

dru, it's 28.5 grams/oz, but for you, I'll make it 24 g/oz.

oh, i'm as stoopid as the rest of you. I've used a cup, or a sierra cup, as a pot on plenty of ultralite trips. And drunken cold instant coffee sans stove, sans pot, on trips to save weight as well. I've made plenty of cups of tea in a twelve ounce enameled mugs. the origional poster was looking for a snow melter, and my original post mentioned the weight savings between the MSR titanium, and the aluminum blacklite two quart pots was a matter of one ounce. i'm just trying to help. And if you go melt snow in a sub liter pot, you're still stupid. you will waste fuel, and probably have to carry more weight on anything other than an overnight trip, than the weight savings from a titanium mini cooker. Try to save weight in areas you can really shave weight. Go from 8 pound tent to 8 ounce tarp, save seven and a half pounds.

for people comparing packs in stores, multiply liters by 60 to get a very close conversion ration: 30 liter packs, about 1800 ci in; 50 liter packs, about 3000 cu/in. but maybe allison won't like this advice, because i work in a gear shop and sell gear for a living.

I'm also a little sick of this little "argument" about cookware to melt snow with, jeesh! It's not as if there's much argument FOR ti pots, anyway. i'm trying to distill good advice. my original post- "anyone who's cooking in a sub-1 liter pot hasn't done much backountry living. 2 liters is a good size for one person or 2. you can drink tea and stuff, and have washing water, and stoves work more efficently on a larger pot anyways." i'm just trying to help. the dude was looking for a snow melter, and ti pots aren't much lighter than alumiunum, and a bigger pot saves you in the long run on fuel. and its all just a couple of ounces in the pots anyways. and ti doesn't work as well as a thermal conductor for pots either. and you need a bunch of water in the winter anyway for drinking water as well as cooking so a bigger, like two quart pot might be a better choice anyways. some of these observations were posted by sphinx as well. ...just trying to help out. but a person melting snow in a sub 1-liter ti pot is still stupid, josh.

oh, i'm not bitter- you "go lite" titanium ounce counters crack me up!

no, josh, if i see you melting snow in a sub 1 liter pot out on a trip I'll call you stoopid to your face, buddy. I'm just offering up my opinion based on lots of out time, we used to sledge a eight quart pot on group trips. two quart blacklite pot nine oz, two quart ti pot eight oz. until they come up with the stove that doesn't need a pot, you will carry a quarter pound pot, minimum. That being said, i've used two cup pots on lite trips. it's not efficient for melting snow though.

i point out theMSR blacklite aluminum two quart pot weighs only one ounce more than the MSR titanium two quart pot, and make a comment on optimum pot size, and i get the criticism? look, until they offer the stove that doesn't need a pot, look at carrying at least a quarter pound in a pot. what's two ro three ounces more in one system or other? Ti isn't that much lighter than aluminum. i've used a two cup cup on a superfly plenty of times, it's just not the most efficient. didnt the original poster ask about a "snow melter?"

piss off, allison, a man's got his opinions! i was sleeping in the snow before i was ten, i've got some experience, babe. probably logged a couple of years worth of days sleeping outside, maybe several. I'm sorry if you don't like my advice on stuff.

i decked from thirty feet once- luckily a bramble patch broke my fall, mostly scratched up and sore ankles. I didn't really notice the scratches at the time as i was in a mad scramble downhill immediately after hitting the deck to escape the hornets that i'd climbed up onto (some wierd kind of ground wasp or something) that caused me to lose my grip in the first place. it was a two-fer kind of accident. I don't think i could have done anything different even if it happens again.

I wasn't aware of much titanium being owned by your average citizen in Irkutsk or Petrograd in the eighties, more like cheap pressboard, pot metal and coarse recycled wool- did the soviet means of production really use titanium in pre collapse, 5- year plan, consumer goods? Was there titanium in sufficient quanitites in the soviet union to support a non military use of the raw materials? I wasnt aware of that. And i was pretty involved with soviet culture during the 1980's. were dudes lighting paprosi with titanium zippo knockoffs? my opinion on the pot size is based on 25 years of out there time and weighted towards lots of snow travel (cause if you're melting for drinking you want a biggass boiler), plus one of my general maxim happens to be: more pot!

The Yates rocker is similar to the ushba and feeds very smoothly, better than the petzl shunt or what ever it is their TRS device is called. It was recently rated tops in one of the british climbing mags. It does feed smoother, seems to have the minimal rope drag.- it works by bending the rope, no teeth. the silent partner is the only device specifically designed for solo lead climbing; all other self belay devices are for TRS only, although this won't prevent a climber from jury rigging a system acceptable to their level of risk.

I'd agree about the cheap russian ti being decommisioned russian military hardware. I wouldn't eat out of them, I imagine beryllium, cobalt or other isotopes or just nasty stuff is in them. Just so you know, MSR Titan 2 liter pot- 8 ounces 69.00 MRS Blacklite cookset, two pots plus frypan- 45.00 take the two liter pot from the blacklite 9 ounces anyone who cooks in a sub 1- liter pot in the backcountry hasn't done much backcountry living- two liters is a great size for one person or two. you can drink tea and stuff, and have washing water, and stoves work more efficiently on a larger pot anyways. one ounce more than the ti pot.

whoa, man, if i must say so myself, nice nuts! where'd you score those funkies?

well, for lightweight, just leave the damn thing behind. If the weathers' foul, you're going to be miserable anyway. Or get a twenty dollar adventure medical kits thermolite bivy sack. waterproof, with a nexus type brushed interior. Takes multiple days of abuse. Mine's been out on the Bailey Range and came back none the worst for wear. Also withstood two patient packagings in litter evacs off Rainier and still in use. Carry it in every daypack, always, now. weighs 7 ounces. twenty bucks. a backpack with a suitably long extension sleeve works as bivy, also a cagoule. (work great togther!) Or you can cover yourself with brush, then snow. don't forget to give yourself room to breathe. A piece of cheap plastic, or better yet, tyvek? No, wait, just dive into a snowbank, wearing lots of wool! or find a nice, dense thicket of scrub pine, or cedar, and go to ground. These all work. Just fine.You're going to have to get up and climb in a couple hours anyway, so... There's two styles of bivy, one i like to call the American style bivy. about the size and shape of a sleeping bag. Sleeps one (except a couple examples), coocoony or coffiny. Then there's a Euro style, or North Wall style bivy, produced by Integral Designs, Ortovox and a couple others, that are designed to be hung and huddled in. some have top vents to pass the rope thru, or full strength tie-ins AND ceiling vents. I've got one from integral designs. 13 ounces, five feet high, nine feet long, two and a half feet wide, two peak vents. Sets up well on ledge, or hung atop skis on tour. 5 minutes of digging, and you've got a standup shelter for three, with peak vents! (let's have some tea in this whiteout, shall we?) or sleeps two side by side, with standup room. Or, if its flat tarp time, 5x9 flat tarp. Or,just roll up in that bastard if you're too tired to think straight. Now, THAT'S a bivy sack.