Beck

Twight was probably referring to his sub two pound fourty degree bag. Scott Backes talked about their different sleep systems, and he said on Twight, House and his ascent of the Czech Direct route on Denali, Twight used a fourty degree synthetic bag, and Scott used a twenty degree synthetic. I tried my sub two pound fourty degree bag for two nights in conjunction with a belay jacket on a ski traverse over Glacier Peak this weekend and slept warm.

Scott Backes had some great, inspiring passages he read about what motivates the climber in every one of us, the passion that it arises from and he is one badass climber- everyone should have seen the pics of their climb up the mostly vertical Czech Direct route up Denali- His inspirational stuff he read was way cool- Scott Backes is the Henry Rollins of the vertical rock world!!! and he came to pub club!

ya, I just talked to Peter from the AAC,and Scott is in Moses Lake, and intends to be in Seattle tommorrow morning..

well, there's going to be Scott Backes...

"Teddy Ruxpin and the Twin Towers of Doom" Prelude: The respect for climbers accomplishments in the vertical arena stick to the forefront of mountain legend. Some are long held dear by the climbing community. Some won’t go away even after the free buffet’s ended... Such is the unfortunate fame of esteemed ursine alpinist Teddy Ruxpin. Teddy barreled onto the climbing scene back when the soviet curtain wasn't even heard of. Seemingly Eurotrash in mannerism, Teddy’s origins and ethnicity weren’t clear. Some said He was Russian. Some said black. Others speculated the silver in his fur pointed to the Polar regions. When asked about his family history Teddy’d reply “I’m just a Baa-hstaard bear” in that self effacing way everyone loved. Whatever his roots, It was clear his heavy coat of fur definitely gave him advantage at altitude. Although Teddy Ruxpin never would admit to possessing a valid passport, he was found sending first ascents along with Royal, Salathe and that wild bunch of derilects inhabiting camp 4 . He climbed in India and the shadowy regions of Nepal and Tibet back when Himalayan climbing meant more than buying into a trade route on overrun guided highways for the rich and famous. This recounting of his failed expedition on the Twin towers of Doom serves as a cautionary tale of what can happen when grizzled old schoolers meets climbings’ nouveau garde in the alpine arena. Albeit horrifying in places, this story may serve to inform the reader what happens when you mix high altitude with hijinks. Teddy’s fame as a climber started back in the early days of Camp Four,lost arrows and free love. He was found out on the big walls in Yosemite valley with Harding and Chouniard when the concept of ‘free’ climbing was just a dream in some britons minds. He was out hammering up overhanging aid pitches in long weeks spent solo out on a big wall somewhere; his habit of scratching a skull and crossbones at the base of the climb would generally discourage any climbers intent in following Teddy Ruxpin up the rock. He disappeared from the scene in the early eighties. He was said to be making a killing in land deals with some friends of his in the local savings and loan. They were trading lands around Telluride that started out dirt cheap and spiraled into multi million dollar plots. Dry plots, too- not a drop of water to be had! When Teddy Ruxpin disappeared from the colorado land swap scandal, he wasn’t heard much of for several years. Rumors of him, living the itinerant life in Chamonix and Oslo, when he wasn’t climbing tough routes in the Alps, or sending V13s on chossy sea rock along the Mediterranean coast. Though there were rumors of scandals involving illegal boarder crossings and chocolate smuggling across the Swiss alps, Teddy was always exonerated fully of any wrongdoing. Teddy Ruxpin- the next time he showed up in the climbing scene he was in the Himalaya, climbing as a team with two tall, lanky blonde Swedes by the names Inma and Helda- these two women, sexy, sapphic, and deadly, were what led Teddy Ruxpin the esteemed ursine alpinist, down the path of bad decisions. These two rock dominatrix, ripped and buff examples of femininity and power, were the “Twin Towers of Doom” that, quite literally, brought Teddy to his knees and beg for mercy.

well, meganerd, it makes the enchantments a third less accessible to the average citizen in favor of commercial access to publicly owned land- to a someone willing to pay almost $200 a day to"recreate"- it is absolutely reprehensible to have the publics' access to public property restricted in favor of for profit business access to same-

my beta shows: 30% guaranteed permits, with interested guide services lobbying for a greater % of the permits for camping in the enchantments in the future- that means, when you,JOE PUBLIC, applies for enchantment permits, are competing with 30% fewer spots available, because the "Guide Services" have got the permits tied up... sounds like a RFU, IMO.

stitch plate w/ spring, modulation supreme..

I think some of us relish the idea of drinks on Tuesday AND Thursday, so let's not disallow quaffing brew tonight, but as for Thursday night, yes, Scott Backes show is FREE, with a gear raffle to raise money for the Access Fund- win free shwag! Afterwards, having drinks at Madame K's desk sounds like an excellent idea! I'll lobby the american alpine club to buy the first round for everyone- Thursday night in Ballard, don't ya know?

sorry, Dru, I got a little confused by this one- but I'm imagining most people don't know powershield is really two fabrics glued togther, just keeping it real - i didn't think we were arguing dru...

for camoflage soft shells the clandestine climber needs to visit cabela's and powershield doesn't breathe thru the glue, dru- that makes it inherently less breathable than a fabric that is uniform bicomponent construction like scholler dryskin,skifans, dynamic, or Tweave. or 60/40 parka, one of the earlier soft shells- if anyone knows where to buy a scholler blazer, i'm looking for one for around townwear... and some people look flattering in clothes that are shaped like garbage sacks hence the desire to own one

and give a kid a copy of the whole earth catalog and you'll have a hippie on your hands before you know it- what's a good read for climbers? Bone Games by Rob Schultheis " Extreme sports, shamanism, zen, and the search for trancendence" he talks about mountaineering parralleled to mans search of the divine... very intriguing read

I've been getting rxd julbos for over twenty years now, and have found out a few things about prescription sunglasses. i'm suprised to hear the Julbo sherpas gave someone eyestrain; the company rates all their lenses as category 3 or 4 out of six on a european sunglass scale- but as for lenses, YES, its true, glass has inherent UV blocking characteristics wheras plastic lenses will always rely on a anti UV coating that will eventually wear off the lenses opticus is expensive, but they have got better lens options than they offered a few years ago; you can get your local optitian to do the same thing for you for less. What to ask for is a glass sunglass lens tinted for high altitude or ocean use, with dual gradient tint, polarized coat and a mirror finish- these shoud set you back less than 150 bucks from your eyedoctor- if they say they can't get you glass, or dual gradient tint, go to a DIFFERENT optitian. And Grey gives better color definition while an amber base tint gives you better contrast definition. For less than high altitude sunglasses, Lenscrafters can set you up for a hundred bucks with shades good enough for a full day of skiing without eyestrain, but a bit weak on the glaciers. and as to matts queries on cheap sunglasses, no. Cheap gas station glasses usually offer false claims of %100 UV on the lens sticker when they actually block only visible light - and to keep in mind the UV levels due to ozone deteriation is only going to get worse, so cover up! Allison may take offense at this beta, but i hope its helpful

The '03 July 14th edition of Rock & Ice has a good comparison review of "autolock" belay devices plus a good chart on many of tube and stitch plate others...

Powershield relies on "discontinous glue laminate" to provide breathability, it doesn't breathe thru the fusion of the inner and outer shells. Quite a bit different from a bicomponent weave .....

..selling climbing gear all weekend, also working promoting my newspaper, and planning the October rope up- CLIMB ON! you lucky bahstards, I'll be in Leavenworth next weekend!

i gotten a few prescription sunglasses for a hundred bucks a pop at lenscrafters.... its a great way to go if you wear glasses ...otherwise, most julbo glacier glasses readily take Rx ing.

...i think a high strength tie off to a Samoan rugby team is all you need in this situation...

I bought some scholler wb-400 bibs this spring and have found them indespensible for ski mountaineering- I wore them last weekend on Mount Hood for early morning uphill slog- 4 way stretch, very stretchy, 30% stretch, like a tight. rainbow butt, 4 sliders, high torso all around for wear as a stand alone piece, big chest pockets/ scholler dryskin top to aid breathability. bought them for $175 and tax. they were closeout, so currently unavailable.

just to keep things confusing in here, but most everyone is on the money here, including, trask; scholler is a great textile mill, there's plenty of good varieties of scholler out there, easily a dozen fabrics, including some great stuff for the equestrians and firefighters out there as well. if you are conxcerned about durability, get tweave. this is a mill from south carolina, not turkey, that makes a more durable summer weight soft shell fabric, being used in some arcteryx garments this season. Also, some of the patagonia soft shells like the dimension jacket were a Dupont fabric, some a proprietory malden mills fabric. these were even more abrasion resistant than scholler. encapsulation aka "epic by nextex" isnt' a fabric at all, but a DWR treatment that eventually wears out. even though the hang tags say its permanent. in Schollers vast products line, they have a version of powershield, a fleece laminate fabric, it think they call it WB-400. this stuff ROCKS for winter, its got 30% 4-way stretch and is 100% windproof. I've got some big mountain bibs last year made from this stuff, and it is a real one layer system. They fit like a glove, and stretch like a pair of tights. I can wear these as a stand alone piece mid winter in the most heinous NW conditions imaginable- ground blizzards and seventy mile an hour winds, this stuff is all you need. but why worry about how you look? the durability of scholler is not a problem. I've got some scholler dryskin bibs that are going on 5 years old now and they are holdng up fine. I think I had to restitch some seams were they just worn out. and theres some pilling, but not too bad.

don't go, josh, stay away from the dakobeds- why would anyone want to go in there, anyway?? no one needs to go explore this part of the state, its boring.

okay, sounds like i'll get the ball rolling for that weekend; October 11-12, with the set up starting Friday during the day at Bridge Creek campground. Ehhmic, I believe camping will be free. If the group campground is available for rent, we'll get that. There are also awsome bivy sites/ possible kegger location across river from BCCG. I believe leavenworths' Oktoberfest is in September. I'll be looking into it. Anyone want to help w/ logistics, let me know. let's have the smith thing on an ajacent weekend, that way people can do both. Some people south of the Columbia should handle that one- 2003 CascadeClimbers Autumn Ropeup, October 10-11-12 at Bridge Creek, Leavenworth.

Okay, cascadeclimbers, a question- should the 2003 Ropeup be held on the full moon weekend in October, the weekend of the 11th and 12th? thinking the full moon weekend in September 12th and 13th would be a bit too busy in Leavenworth yet, with all those fool festivals they've got going on- is this okay with everybody? the decision needs to be made soon! to lock in some people, equipment, and campground issues, etc. looks to be a great party this year!

that funky metolius product fern posted is some type of super daisy, all the pockets (there's only five) all rated at 27kn or something up there- its meant to be a full strength daisy AND anchor equalizer- something you can be clipped in, and use any loop in any configuration at full strength- its a great no brainer tool, if it was sized differently, more like a traditional daisy, it would catch on more quickly, maybe. metolious is into this "full strength from everything" mantra you will see in their harnesses, and this uber daisy/anchor slingy. lets the user just clip in however, tie in to the haul loop, or a leg loop, and its all full 20+ kn, every last little piece, even the gear loops.

stepping back into some wierd ounce counting/ down spew quagmire. Andy whosiswatsis hasn't done his research lately. For U.S. "industry standard" (which there isn't any down agency like FIS for sports) the cylinder graduations for volume top out at 900 cu in. That's what a sample from EVERY 16 pounds of Marmot high fill down tests out at, both at Marmot's in house lab, and the independant testing house in Denver or Salt Lake or wherever it is. it's true. empirical fact. Is a three quarter zipper, no draft tube bag the way to go? you be the judge of that. but t here's no arguing about marmot down and, on a lighter note, i hear a competitor, Varmint Montane Werks, is teaming up with Barrabes and the other euro dealers to distribute a line of exclusive 1,600 fill power bags with eider down from emperor penguins- they will also make a line of clothes... "so light, it's like wearing...nothing at all!" look for a stephensons warmlite type catalog.