freak

FOr longer climbs I've used two regular slings girth hitched to my harness with a locker on each one, one hooked to either side, they dont get in the way as much if you tie an over hand knot in the middle of the sling. Its cool especially at bolt belays, and you also have two extra slings incase you run out. nic

THe icicle has snow up on the canyon it was really purdy out there today, Even wenatchee has some snow on the hills, The temps were perfect today for boulder crimpin, nic may the friction be with you

Um, I use a compresion stuff sack for my down jacket, small pad and fleece pants, bivy sac, and lite rain gear, no sleeping bag, This allowed me to take a much lighter super basic day pack, and still have room for gear, It can be a bit cold at night to augment this I have used a onetime use space blanket inside my bivy, This has proven to be a good strategy when I have to pack up and over a peak, preferably not bivying on the route but somewhere in the lowlands on approach or decent..nic

Ya I gotcha that offwidth is pretty secure, I was connected with the daisy simply to weight it if I had to, nic

Ya its me Feney is doing good how are you? SHe's livin in seattle, and just got back from a euro tour, my email is wipperwill31@hotmail.com, use it! nic

Um ya what he said, I learned by following a competent climber who sewed it up mass, then I got to clean it all, this went on for a while then I tried to lead and got really gripped,.. GO to trad areas alot, dont take wippers on gear at Smith, nic

Ya, but were at the top o the fin, unless we wanted to slap up over hanging gendarms with no pro. uhh ouch,, we were in the middle and left side of the fin most of the time and the climbing was rad, Ive heard you should stay in the middle and work to the right side, to some undercling crux,,we never encounterd this, it was hand and finger cracks the whole way with a little corner to a roof bypass, the last pitch before the tripple was a rad 5.7 wide crack traverse, okay see ya nic

Backbone is really good,, for the offwidth take a #5 clip it to your daisy chain and scootch it up with ya, I dont think that was the crux of the route, I had to drop in to the very top part of the tripple couloir, it was the last pitch and it was the diceyest thing I've ever done, big loose blocks I think theres other ways to go up on the fin so you dont have to do that though. nic

If you live near seattle you should do guye peak, the improbable traverse, nic

11c 12a whats the difference its all 5.0 till you fall. nic

I got one of those things mostly to impress the chicks, they dont care one way or another wether the haul loop is in place or not,, ,I Just tie the extra rope on the front. nic

ahem yes I am a freak, Im waiting to aid unil I cant boulder crimp any more, but I do consider myself a profesional line jugger, hehhehheh see you in l-worth nic

I though backbone with the fin direct was pretty cool, better than serpentine. Any body done Life on Earth up in BC? that looks cool I think its on Mt Habarachi? nic

there are places where one should consider seriously useing a helmet, vantage, and in the alpine. I usually dont wear one when theres little loose rock Has anybody tried those petzle helmets? they seem lighter so do they work? Better than nothin I suppose, they seem like a good cragging helmet but I wouldent wear one in the alpine better to use the old bomber. okay cheers, with a pbr nic

I like my toyota van so far it cruises and is livable,, cons hard to work on, thats about it. nic

are your shoes so tight that you are hammer toed? maybey your toenails are being pushed back and you need to cut those evil things, nic

I agree with mr anderson. I see people trusting one peice or one biner to keep them off the deck all the time, what about people topropeing through one locking carabiner, I think folks should stack the odds in thier favor. case in point, a friend decked off spider line in J tree, when a yellow tcu tracked out of that grainy jt granite. he cliams it was bomber but he put it all on that piece and it pulled, rope streach and a good belay kept him alive, but that incedent for the most part brought an end to his hard climbing days, so i guess that enuf reason for me to sew it up and back it up. ohhh yeah and wear a helmet which I dont do enuf of. nic

ouch,,

I dont know about conditions right now but Ive done the peak twice and both times it was a good call to bring an Ice axe, for getting to the route and getting off. I would say bring a good axe and leave the crampons at home,,,but I dont know how conditions are right now. nic,,

ya dude it took him like a year to get to where he's at, It came down to freedom of expression in some ways we all climb to express our selves although he did cross the line, but wether you solo or fix and go slow its up to you right? The question is where do we draw the line that says alright its time to bag it. and go home takeing all your crap with you. I dont know man but I am down with the informality that exists now, we shouldent have to have the state impose a restriction on how we must climb. okay that my 2 cents. nic

This really happend and if he had been found guilty it would have changed how walls get done in the Valley, People routinely leave ropes up for more than 24 hours. I doubt that the climbing rangers whould ever give ya a ticket for fixing and leaving gear for a reasonable amount of time. I agree that he stepped over the line totally, way over the line. It was just insane, the whole thing was so random, the main peice of evidendce was an onion bag, imagine a prosecuteing attorney holding up an onion bag. .I guess you would have had to be there, nic

I usually dont remember the names either unless it really makes an impression on me like I took a wipper or it had really cool moves. I think its better to remember the name than just the rateing though. nic

Dude it was bad ass, I was beat from climbing too many days in a row, dean potter comes strollin through camp in the mornin and say's you guys should come to the trial and help Free Chongo. HE knows we're from Washington and never leave home with out the reefer. ANy ways we go to the trial hang out in the air conditiond court room, and watch the drama unfold. IT was better than judge Judy. He was on trial for fixing ropes on El cap, (sea of dreams) they couldent prove in court that the ropes had been there for more than 24 hours. When everyone knew that they had been there for two years. It was one bad ass rope swing, Anyways he got off scot free, and my friend got a copy of his new book,the green stuff is good barter material, the book is called, The homeless interpretation of Quantum mechanics. That book is way the fuck out there if you know what I mean. And thats the highlight of my Yosemite trip, dude it was better than snakedike, just kidding.

Pope fuck yeah dude personal fornication pads, dude I have a van too IM set for boulder pimpin! nic

I like to fuck around in both worlds I think its bad ass to boulder in the back county I wouldent huf a pad up there but I have been known tote one of those things, I like to call em personal fornication pads, anyways all aspects of this sport are fun Ive gone months with out tieing into a rope when I do I have a blast oh well thats me 2 cents, oh yeah, ya cant lump all those funny lookin boulder crimpers together, some of them have led 5.11 cracks and taken huge wippers and climbed grade Vs nic