Lambone

I'm in with Alpine K. I'd be willing to bet that the majority (important term here) of Heli-skiers are folks from the city (i.e. New York, Chicago) with a lot of money to spend on skiing, but not much opportunity, do to time and geography, to practice avalanche skills. Then again I am sure many folks who go heli skiing do know their "shit" to some extent. Of course, I have never been, so what do I know...

Probably Mummies then. Nice climbing!

Didn't see any debris. There isn't much snow up there, and Avy conditions seem to be pretty stable. Things are pretty thin up there. But Syncro, Loose Lady and Carlsberg have ice. Another week or two of cold temps and they will be in good climbing shape.

Sal, A freind of mine blew ot a TCU on the Sheild and knocked his front tooth out. Best advice is to looks down when bounce testing.

We climbed: Oregon Jack (in the full moon ) Cherry Ice The Tube and Marble Canyon All were in good shape. The Tube was super fun, but bring Gore-Tex. We also attempted Loose Lady, but the last pitch looked a little too Loose for us (chandeliered + mushroomed ice) The approach pitches were fun. Also heard of climbers doing thge Rambles, Capricorn, Night'n Gale, and Syncronicity. Carlsberg looks climbable, but it is super thin. And Brook said that Salmon Stakes and Silk Degrees were not in. Marble was fun, but definately a picked out hooking fest, only a few people there on Monday. We bought some honey from Bob the "Honeyman." After parking in his driveway in the morning for Cherry Ice we felt obliged to. He was super friendly, and told us a bunch of cool stories about chasing Bears away from his bee hives in the old days. He makes some damn good honey! By the way, straight up from his place is not the best approach! He was laughing at us...instead park at the gated road and walk up the road to the water catchment facility. Be carefull, supposedly auto theft is a problem there. Honeyman falls is not in. Plenty of ice to climb up there, go get it, and have fun!

If "beyond" meens above, then it was Genesis 2.

Just to offer another opinion(again)... The Sportiva S boot (not the Trango S) is more than stiff enough for a route like Chair, and I had no problems climbing WI 4+5 in it. It was very light and comfortable, and allowed me to use my feet in ways that a plastic or heavy leather boot couldn't. They aren't waterproof, but my feet (the inside) never got wet, and they dry quickly overnight. The Trango series looks and feels sweet too, I'm sure they'd be great for Cascades mountanieering and any Ice climbing.

Thats the funnist shit I've read all day Necro!

Back in the day we called it Drainageaneering

If I was going to get tools for mostly alpine, and some ice, I'd get the Grivel Light Wing, they are sweet. if you plan on climbing a fair bit of ice, get the Cobras hands down, they are worth the$.

Cobras Tasty

But we should believe you...right? Sure buddy...

http://www.seawfo.noaa.gov/products/SABSEA They are calling avy danger low to moderate for thursday, should decrease through the weekend. Still, don't underestimate the snowpack, be prepared and make good decisions. Have fun!

Check summitpost.com, they might know...

I'm not sure how much snow they got up there, 20 inches sounds like alot...but maybe. If the weather stays fairly dry and temps remain consistant, the snowpack should settle by the weekend. Snow Shoes would work fine, but be prepared for Avy danger. The slopes on the approch and descent are prime slide territory.

I adjust my android wrist loops about as short/close as possible to the thumb clip. I find it easier to use, cause it doesn't flop around so much...

Ain't like he's famous or nothin...just another dude. Punk ass bitch.

I like the older Lockdown leash better than the new ones... The multicolered webbing was thicker and "fuzzier," so they did't "loosen when unweighted" as easily. I almost dropped a Cobra on Saturday because the newer style lockdown loosened up and I didn't notice. Lockdowns have been my favorite since they came out in 97 or so, but the Android is growing on me quickly, too bad it has that crappy Robo tightening system, which never seems to stay tight. Haveta take 'em off when going to the mountains though, and thats a pain in the ass. If you can only afford one, go with the lockdown, it's more versitile. Don't buy Robo's the wrist loop thing sucks.

Ryland, It's Adam Knoff an aquaintence of mine from Bozeman. he lives here now with his twin brother Eric, they both work for RMI and are badass yet humble climbers. I don't think they follow the online scene, but they may be lurkers. If so, whats up Adam! Nice climbing fellas, you have inspired many with your awsome pics and TR's, thanks for sharing.

Yes, the Androids are identical as well, and the Lockdown...

The Pillar in Cooke City (it has several different names depending on who you ask) is 1/4 up from the main highway, visible from the road, and has a relatively short approach. Although it is threatend by serious avy danger on Barronette Mt. However, you are right, Cooke City isn't the most accesible place, and the locals like it that way. It really is a special place to climb ice, and I'd highly recomend it. If it had better rock it would rival the mixed climbing in vail, as Barronette as many little steep caves with gnarly pillars and such. My friend Pete tried to put a sick line up, but by the time he had drilled all the bolts through the roof, all the holds had broken off and crumbled. Anyway, sorry to change the subject from Colorado, i'd like to climb there sometime!

Hey I don't blame ya! Nice lead. Thanks for the invite, Chrysten and I would love to come visit Boulder sometime! There is a pillar in Cooke City Wyoming that is very similar to the Fang, looks almost identical actually, but has never recieved any press. Anyone going to Bozeman should check it out!

Hey Dale, Just curious, did it have a screamer on it? If so, did the stitching blow? Have people been climbing the Fang yet? Have fun! Matt

Yeah, looks pretty wild up in there!