Lambone

Is that dyno Photoshoped or what? I'd go, he is a badass!

I didn't know Alex well enough to judge whether he was a true asshole or not, I only talked to him breifly a couple of times, but some of my friends who are active climbers in that community thought he was an asshole...but that is besides the point. Even if he was an asshole in person, you gotta respect the dude, he was know for his very selfless acts of bravery in the mountains helping others. My point is that when people drop ropes from the top of crowded crags without any warning, are being just plain disrespectfull assholes, stupidity is no excuse. This thread is on it's way to Spray.

My wife and I are going over Christmas. Anyone else have plans...it would b cool to hook up with cc.comers for drinks and turns.

Alex didn't even yell rope...he just chucked it, landed right on my head. But he was still a badass in my book...

Alex Lowe dropped a rope on my head in Bozeman once...I was pissed...but what could I say. I guess my point is that not-only dolt gumby climbers can be assholes...

I stepped on my partners dog ice climbing once, punctured her leg with my crampon. It curled up behind me while I was belaying, trying to stay warm I guess, I didn't notice and stepped back. I love dogs, but personaly I'd be afraid of hurting someone elses dog with crampons or falling ice. Mine won't come Ice climbing with me, dogs don't have any fun sitting around being cold all day...

Exactly, go lead some WI2 that you could never fall off, and work your way up. If you can't top rope without pulling down half of the climb, you shouldn't be doing it.

I believe that was a training excersize. Watching it once was enough for me...never again.

[begin rant] Yeah dammit...and don't top-rope the upper pitches of IC BC, or the lower pitch for that matter! As far as I'm concerned this is a multi-pitch route, and top roping any of it just thwarts aspiring LEADERS CLIMBERS. Not to mention that it creates a dangerous situation of falling ice, and chews up the climbs. The last few times I have been to IC BC, I have led up the first pitch exited about finishing the climb to find people who walked around to set up top-ropes on the upper pitches, then started sending ice down on my partner while he was trying to second the pitch. These climbers were part of large clubs who had top-ropes slung on every available climb. This is total bullshit. The Deeping wall and other climbs I don't have a problem with, because they are ideal for top-roping. Just be gentle, hacking the ice is not only a waste of energy, but shows you don't give a shit about fellow ice climbers. [end rant]

Thanks guys, this is really good info. Ghost is a possibilty, my buddy has a pick-up. What we do is kind of up to them as well, I just want to know some options. So near the icefields/Rampart Creek we've got Weeping Wall and Murchison, both classic. Polar might be sketchy, any other options that might be a good alternative for day three? How far is grotto canyon from that area? Would you be able to tell if the slopes on PC had slid from down low?

Whatever dude, that is bullshit. SG's problems are soft, and their setters don't no shit.

Ok, new question. Avy danger looks to be high now, forecast says "Ice climbs with snow above them are a bad idea." So if conditions continue to worsen later this week, what are some good routes that arn't prone to avy hazard?

Yeah, Vipers with Fangs...don't fit, bummer cause I like my Ice Sac. Won't consider North Face...not that they arn't good, just have personal issues with that company. And i won't make my own, because I are so suck

Whats the best ice pack that does not have tool tubes?

My partner (crazy German sport climber), ended up clipping the pack to a runner below his harness. You'd never fit with the pack on your back. He was so pissed, that was his first chimney!

Hey Scott, This route kicks ass! I led the 5.8 chimney pitch. It is not run out, there is gear in the back of the chimney. It starts with a handcrack in a corner, then you pull a roof which goes into the wide chimney to squeeze offwidth, then you bust out and lie back for a few feet to a bomber hand crack. It is a long pitch so use long runners and watch rope drag. I had heinous drag and ran out of gear, had to build the belay out of tiny nuts and my chalkbag biner. It was hard, but I think I remember this pitch better than any other I have ever led, and it was almost 10 years ago. Put the rack on the inside, so you can reach the gear. Seconding with the pack is way worse than leading it. I remember getting a couple of helmet jams in The only other wide section I can remember was the last pitch, but I think we were off route, in the dark. It was like a 50' 4 inch crack that I walked a number 4 the whole way up. We brought a set of nuts, set of cams up to #4, and set of hexes. Doubles on the small to mid size cams would be nice, hexs are good for builing your belays. The route is well protected the whole way, mostly hand cracks with a few finger cracks, the only face climbing I remember is the traverse in the middle, very exposed pitch! Great route, probably the best free climb I have ever done. Start super early this time of year, it is a long sustained day. Good luck!

Northern Lights trading Co. ussualy holds an Ice Fest in Bozeman as well...worth checking into.

Cool, yeah Hyalite is having a great early season. Go get it before the road is snowed in!

With 2 60 m ropes you can rap from the top-out of Green Drag-on in three rappels. 1 - From the top chains to the pitch 5 belay. 2- From pitch 5 belay to Pitch 3 belay (skip p4 under the roof) 3 - Pitch 3 belay (top of p2) to Ground - rope stretcher, go climbers left to the ledge at the base of DH. Takes about 20 minutes. 1 or 2 less rappels than Town Crier. I allways wondered about linking the two at the Tripple Roofs, souds cool. Pitch 4 on GD is real fun though...

There was a tragic accident on Lower Cathederal Rock in Yosem this summer involving this. The leader fell on a traversing pitch, sustained head trauma (no helmet), but was concious and alive for a while. His belayer (girlfriend) could not get him down with self-rescue techniques (for whatever reason), and it took rescuers several hours to reach the leader. He was pronounced DOA. Now, given he did have serious head trauma...but he also spent many hours just hanging in his harness. I remember reading something about this being the possible cause of death in the accident report...don't remember where...some web-site. I may be sketchy on some of the details, but I just thought this accident was related to the topic here.

Hey MisterE, You forgot one more thing, Shop for new Ice and Ski gear online...

Forked out for the plane ticket to Calgary today...pretty cheap, it's on! Got a week to train... Any one else going to be there?

Forecast is for snow in Ashland tommorow

Full report from Joe Jo, on http://montanaice.com, "Okay, It's been a great start to the season. I've been tromping around Hyalite a bit and asking around and here is what looks in or has been climbed or hasn't: The main route on the Sphinx has been climbed recently but the direct pillar is not in and overall the route is thinner than normal but still good. Cleo's has been climbed but rumor has it wasn't great. Dribbles and Silken Skein look good. Responsible Family Men is in. Dialectric Breakdown, Curtains, Alpine Like, and the multiple pitches leading to Winter Dance are all good. Not sure about Slot Corner. Mummy II and Septre are good. Mummy IV is a no show. Zack Attack is getting close. G1 could hold about 10 top-ropes right now. All the other Genesis Area ususal suspects are huge. Sleeping Giant is great shape but hasn't been getting much traffic. It should. Thrill is Gone has been good but depending on the temps it has been dripping wet. The Fat One is getting better. Good Looking One is not even close (a bit more and it will be a good mixed route). Fatty Access Ice (aka Jeff's Left and Right) are thin and mixed but doable. Elevator Shaft is awesome right now. There are at least four parallel pitches of WI 2-3 ice an hour above Elevator that are all in and good if you want a fitness day. Pallisade was great with good climbing on both sides. Don't know if the hole in the middle is frozen over yet. Alpha and Omega look narrow but doable. Champagne is thinnish but good. High Crimes is in. Seeds and Stems looks very worthy of a look but hard to tell what it's like. Killer Piller is trying hard but not touching yet. The Big Sleep has thick ice at the top but that's about it for now. The Comet is huge. Rock Pic and Hoar Show looks thin at the bottom. Horsetail is in fat, easy shape although the 1st pitch might get some open water if it warms up too much. In other words, lots to do so get after it. Have fun!"

Gracias, Just found this source, it's pretty sweet... http://www.wickedgravity.com/