Lambone

Josh...what exactly are you talking about? sorry this is getting off topic... But do you think that outdoor soft goods manufactured in Asia are produced on some fully automated assmbely line? No, they are made by laborers with sewing machines. Lots of them. Same as here in the States, only we pay our laborers a living wage and give them breaks and stuff like that...

No the argument is that Fabrizio acctually climbs, and designs his own stuff. His designs are not all "Marketing and Image," they are based on years of experience and testing that he's put in. People seem to be confusing The Magic Line with The North Face or something. TNF pays good Poster Boy climbers for face shots in magazine and put out crappy non-functional products made in sweat shops. word is North Face is also movinbg to Boulder...

So Cracked, spill the beans...what is it about those designs that you don't like? Mark Husbands bagged on Fabrizio for being from Boulder. We are just saying that he's a cool guy whos climbed lots of stuff. I'd hasten to say more stuff then anyone on this board. Personally I think they have some good design concepts. For instance, I really like that they put different weights of insulation in different areas of their bags and jackets. You don't see this alot out there. For an alpin bag I want something that will keep my feet warm, but I am ussualy wearing my belay jacket, so I don't need so much insulation up there. I do think their whole "System" thing is kind of a gimmic. They seem more like standalone products then anything else...I don't see what benefit using their pack and jacket together has...??? And the prices are steep compared to say Wild Things or Integral Designs. I wonder where the stuff is made? Maybe you should try to sell them your "Gort" design?

whatever... I spent a month on Ama Dablam with Fabrizio. He is the real deal, he climbs hard, big peaks and is funny as hell. He's not some Boulder yuppie. He spends most of his time guiding in Chamonix and the rest traveling around the world to cllimb gnarly stuff. When I was there with him he held the speed record on the SW Ridge. I'm not sure about their claim to be the only company using "integrated systems" though...

The Free Blast was more like an Aid Slog for me...

Yeah, nice climb! although bringing Colin is like cheating...

You could carry all your gear up to 12,000. But it's probly easier just to cruz up with a light pack.

Ok, didn't make it this winter, but I'm leaving on Monday...partner or not, but partner would be fun. No Job? Wall Experience? lemme know... Bone

Now ya did it cracked...

shirtless none-the-less...I'd be wearing leather. Ahhh who am I kiddding, I'm tooo much of a wimp for that shit. Pass me the hooks.

Posted on RC.com...this photo caught my eye...wow. "Neil Monteith (orangeoverhang) commits to a 6m runout whilst struggling through the crux of The Dreaming pitch one grade 22 (5.11a), Mt Buffalo, Australia. Photo Jacqui Middleton"

you a funny man...meet ya in the watershed beyotch.

One question...is St. Josephs in Seattle? If so you are one burly MOFO man...drink up

bummer d. sounds like a clean break though...trying to be positive. A buddy of mine took a big lead fall once and came down hard on his ankle, he totaly destroyed the whole thing and it messed him up good. hope yours fixes up nice and quick. Matt

wierd, you might want to send a pm to jon or timmay sure you didn't log in as someonelse by accident? when I used to surf cc.com at the UW library, the computer wuld sometimes store my password and log me in automaticly. well...one day another cc.com adict used that same computer...so they were able to reign havoc on my login, changed my passwords, all my info, sen't out hate mail to people...etc. not cool. probly should never send your account numbers through the internet unless its a protected shopping site anyway. cc.com gives a disclaimer that PM's are not 100% private, the adminitrators have access.

Went climbing for the first time down here in Ashland. Greensprings...ie. Chosspile. But it was fun. Been riding bikes alot lately, starting to enjoy it more than cragging actually. Yosemite next week!

just push the buttons until something happens...

no shit, eh? Everyone here gets their panties in a bunch if a moderator picks on a newbie...so I need to get my fix somewhere else... Too bad that guy didn't post his cam hook thread here...now that would have been some funny shit mate. http://rockclimbing.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=56074 Cam hooks rule

Ticks suck...there are tons of them down here in Southern Oregon. I pull them off my dog daily, and sometimes off myself. But the Poison Oak is even worse, i'm currently tormented by it all over...sucks ass.

Are you going to do any other Treks?

I agree that your body is an excellent shock absorber, but if they fall and you are belaying them through the anchor, it still sees the weight of both people weather you are on the same side or on either side of a rope. Besides, if your partner yanks you off and you are both hanging on an anchor that has just bee shockloaded, is it still sketchy? If belaying from your harness you shouldn't redirect the roupe through the anchor...for that reason.

You could look at it a couple of ways. If you are belaying a second and the anchor is less then ideal, belaying off the harness might be better. If you can hold their weight on your waist you may not even weight the anchor at all. However, lets say the seconds fall and pulls you off also, now you are both hanging off the sketchy anchor, instead of just them. In situations where the anchor totaly sucks or is non-existant, you may want to belay with the old school hip belay. That way you vcan let the rope slide a little, less static/more dynamic. Also, keep the knife handy! But...if you do decide to belay the second off the anchor, keep the rope tight. That way if they do fall there will be less impact, and it'll be just bodyweight. Sketchy anchors suck...

Alex Lowe or...Warren Harding

So you climbed there 10 years ago...so you are totaly aware of the current situation there...yeah, sure. Sorry, didn't realize you were the authority on the subject...

True, but there is a war going on and people are getting killed with or without climbers caught in the middle... Did the kyrgez/Uzbecs die because of the climbers...not really. they died because they shot eachother.