Lambone

Come On I know sombody out there needs tools. I'll even throw in a spare pick, two express screws, and one long smiley for an extra $50. Talk to me I am desperate. You will be stoaked!!!-matt

It's right there in the instruction manual. Go down to feathered friends and see for yourself. Read my post closely, the petzl rep. told me it was fine, he even said that he wouldn't bother backing it up. [This message has been edited by lambone (edited 05-25-2001).]

Look Pope, its lambone not Imabone. Go flirt somewhere else, like church! Or be a real man and get her phone number. [This message has been edited by lambone (edited 05-25-2001).]

John Ramuta by far. I have seeen hundereds of pairs resoled by John, and they allways look awsome. He has resurected several of pairs of my shoes from the DEAD. And he's fast. You can drop them off at Vertical World.

Didn't you say you wern't going to look at this site anymore.

One more thing, the word is that it is a bad Idea to use the grigri to self belay on lead. GriGri's are the most static belay device on the market, and more static than a munter hitch. If you are leading some aid pitch on scetchy brass nuts, the impact force will be way up. Better to use a clove hitch, and slid it along as you go. Clove hitches slip at about 4-6 hundred pounds, thus creating a more dynamic belay. Back it up with a figure eight of course. All this info was givin to me by Charlie Fowler, AMGA guide, old schooler, bad ass.

Petzl has a new gizmo called the Pro Traction. It is a replacement for their wall-hauler. The pulley has ball bearings, so it is suposed to be a lot better for hauling heavy loads. Anyway, it also works fine for self belaying on TOP ROPE. Only on top rope. They also have a smaller one called the mini traction, which also works fine. Dave Havoc, the local petzl rep gave me the schpiel on them the other day. Petzl recomends using either of these devices for top rope self belaying. I want the Pro for my heavy ass pig!

Alien Offsets. Like gold when your staring down a flare or pin scar. They're Dope.

Ooopps, I didn't mean to repeat myself.

Erik, I have three hours to teach some basic rock climbing rescue techniques. The course I originally took consisted of 16 hours of traning. Hence, the course in leavenworth will be a breif overview. Basically a clinic to help increase the awareness of climbers who are doing multi-pitch routes in the mountains, or anywhere. I would strongly encourage anyone who is realy interested in this stuff to take some private instruction, as there is a ton of information to absorb. First aid will not be included. Basically I am going to describe an efficient way to get down off a multi pitch route with an injured climber. Or at least give people some basic tools so they could improvise in an emergency. I hope people learn something from it, or at least REALIZE that they don't know anything! Then I hope they come and sign up for a private class with me at the Gym. I am an instructor at Vertical World. I have been climbin for thirteen years, but I am not yet AMGA certified. I hope that answers your question. Let me know if you have more. Thanks. [/b] [This message has been edited by lambone (edited 05-24-2001).]

Erik, I have three hours to teach some basic rock climbing rescue techniques. The course I originally took consisted of 16 hours of traning. Hence, the course in leavenworth will be a breif overview. Basically a clinic to help increase the awareness of climbers who are doing multi-pitch routes in the mountains, or anywhere. I would strongly encourage anyone who is realy interested in this stuff to take some private instruction, as there is a ton of information to absorb. First aid will not be included. Basically I am going to describe an efficient way to get down off a multi pitch route with an injured climber. Or at least give people some basic tools so they could improvise in an emergency. I hope people learn something from it, or at least REALIZE that they don't know anything! Then I hope they come and sign up for a private class with me at the Gym. I am an instructor at Vertical World. I have been climbin for thirteen years, but I am not yet AMGA certified. I hope that answers your question. Thanks.

Standard water ice length. 50 or 55cm I think. Bent shaft. They swing real nice! I don't want to part with them, but I need a portaledge. Summer priorities and all. Let me know if you are interested. [This message has been edited by lambone (edited 05-24-2001).]

While you are at Index, I will be teaching self rescue techniques for Feathered Friends. Be Safe!

Yep you got it $200 for the whole deal. They are pretty new, only used one season. The picks are untouched! I need to sell them by June for the Yosemite fund! E-mail me at mlambert60@hotmail.com

Just curious, What is a hard top tent? Is it a tent that protects you from rockfall? In 10 years of selling climbing stuff I have never heard of such a thing. Wouldn't it be kind of heavy?

Erik, What to you mean when you speak of unknown risks. If you mean, don't take the risk of your partner falling off and pulling you with him because you didn't know if he(or she) could pull the moves, than I would agree. But don't you confront unknown risks every time you go climbing? You can never be sure of everything. All kinds of bad shit can, and does happen. My question, that deviates from the original, is: Is it worth it to try and climb Gilivers crack in 10 minutes, or The Shield in less than ten hours? Arn't you taking unknown risks? And more importantly, why are you taking them? I can see the alpinists point, speed=saftey. But what the hell is the point of climbing some standard route faster than everyone else? If you say because you like to, than I guess I can't argue. To each his own.

Sounds fun, like a good girlfriend route. 7 pitches that really add up to 3? No disrespect, but why is this always the case in Washington? It's like everyone here uses one 30 meter rope, only has twelve draws, and has never heard of long runers. Or mabye Washington climbers just lack endurance? Mabye they just want their routes to sound bad ass? Just kidding! Put your bolt guns away! [This message has been edited by lambone (edited 04-22-2001).]

Thanks for your sweat and tears. I plan to tick that one sometime this summer. Two questions, anyone have any special solo beta (pertaining to this route)? And whats the scoop on The Green Dragon? It sounds cool, and a little more direct.

This is my opinion. If you are not putting in gear, don't fall. Regardless if you are still roped or not. If you don't trust yourself or your partner, put in gear. If you are simo climbing and you don't trust your partner, make him go first. And make him put in gear. Again, don't fall. If you are trying to move fast, and you are not puting in gear, put the rope in your pack and get it out of the way. You will go faster, and you wont be tempted to rely on it. Of course, there will always be different situations, and different circumstances, but unless you know how to use it properly a rope will only prolong your suffering. Anyone disagree? [This message has been edited by lambone (edited 04-19-2001).]

Hey, don't forget that kids are reading this. You are setting the example for the future, so don't currupt it, save the profanity for your boss. I think what this guy is complaining about is a perfect example of the "Not in my back yard" syndrome. Yet he fails to recognize that unless he is decendent of the Native Americans, he himself is part of the problem. Regardless of how long he has lived and climbed here. His is the attitude I speak of in my post on The Future. This veiw condems our future. Since its only going to get worse, we might as well just quit climbing while we are ahead. Is this the attitude that we want to pass on to the next generation of climbers? That they need to defend their territory from outsiders? How will that help climbing remain a positive and progressive endeavor? There are too many people everywhere buddy. It's a fact of life in this day and age, so get over it. What is the point of complaining and pushing your negative attitude. Where does that get us? One last point. I don't think this spray category is just a bunch of bullshit. Just cause the forum is online instead of in Camp 4 doen't make it worthless. It improves the situation by making the veiws of members of the climbing communtiy available to all, not just a small group of the eliete. Did you really expect,or hope, that no one would respond to your post? If so, wake up, open your eyes and see that your own ego is the cause of your narrow mindedness. What are you doing about the rivers? Do you make it rain?-matt

Hey Kevin, A point well made, but in my opinon, the future of climbing lies in combining the two forms of climbing,(sport and alpine) rather than seperating them. Take a look at Tommy Caldwell for instance. I don't know him, but from what I've read, he developed his strong sport climbing skills, and then took them to the Big stone. Routes like the Salathe. Then he goes back to try to put up one of the hardest sport routes in the world on some choss pile that everyone has written off. Then he goes and tries to apply his speed and strength to routes in Kyrgisthan(?). He and his stong parteners almost get killed, but does that stop him. No, he comes back to the Captain and frees another sick route. With a girl nontheless. Now this gives me inspiration! Which brings me to another important point. Over half of the competetors at the Seattle comp. were girls. That is rad in itself. There are two many macho dudes climbing out there. And if the girls are brought into the sport by team competition, then so what. At least they are learning to love the "dance". As far as morals, that is up to the parents. And tendonitis, well lets hope they have good coaches. thanks- Lambone

Ok man, sorry. Don't get so defensive. My point wasn't to try to slam you. I don't even know you. I am more talking about an attitude rather than an individual. I sensed an attitude when I read your post about comp kids, and it upset me. Just trying to keep this site interesting.-matt P.S. have fun, now I'm the jealous one!!!!

A little while ago I posted a message about the JCCA comp at Vertical World in Seattle. Saying that everyone should come check out part of the future of climbing. Then some dude rights back about how kids who crank hard routes in the gym are not the future of climbing. That they need to get off their high horse, or some B.S. In my opinion, you(you know who you are) are just jealous. And personally I don't think that just because you go put some bomber bolts on an old Beckey Aid line, you are defining the future of climbing. Or is it that you are just another one of those selfish guys who doesn't want to see these kids show up at "your" crag? You all know the type, they sneer and turn their head when you walk up to the lower wall. You can see that they think they are tough cause they are toproping some 5.11 crack. They scoff cause you pull out some new shiny gear. Little do they know that these are your new, 2nd set of cams. And you just retired your old rope and harness. Whether you like it or not we are all here together, and there are alot of us, so you might as well break down and say hello. Regardless of what this old fart says, my point is that the future of climbing lies in the hands of the kids. And kids who climb 13a in the gym are going to be the next ones to take this sport to another level. Look at whats been happening in the Valley the last few years. Those guys were just kids not long ago. I bet alot of them started in a gym. Just cause Fred Beckey went out and snatched up all the most esthetic lines around here doesn't mean that the next generation wont be doing any first ascents. Any of you who thinks that the future of climbing begins and ends with them needs to let go of their ego before it corrupts some poor kid's mind. Anyway, what are some other interpretations of where the future of our sport lies?

If it makes you feel any better, I did the same thing with TWO camalots on top of El Cap this fall. And no, I am not going to say which route! Some german dude is probably stoaked. Haste makes waste, I guess.

Boyscout, Don't listen to that guy. And don't worry, you'll sell your membership. I talk to people every day at the Gym who want a cheaper membership. I'll send them your way. But you're going to lose a little on the deal. Sorry, rules are rules, no matter how much they suck. -matt