Lambone

Ok, I take it back... that sucks! I guess it could happen to just about anyone. The lesson: don't go for the summit unless its bluebird??? Or don't forget that your not in California anymore Toto. Glad they made it out!

You really got a thing for that "Big Lou" huh Dwayny.

Dru, no... but next time for sure. You ever here of why you shouldn't give a dog a Lambone? Because it will splinter and slice up their insides, and they will die... So Dru, suck it and swallow buddy!

Pencil Head, I have also rapped straight off slings before, lots. But be AWARE: If you are using two ropes of different diameter, they will slip through webbing while you are rapping. Probably not enough to melt the webbing, but... Dude its not worth the risk man! Its you life on the line! Carry some old biners and give um up as sacrafices to the rap anchor gods! Also, think about the next guy! When you pull your ropes through the webbing, you damage it. It always melts alittle, take a close look next time. Then the next guy needs to add a new sling, then you have tweenty new slings on the tree. Garbage... P.S. For those of you who didn't know this, Rap rings should be used for body weight only, not as the main point on your anchor.They are not made to withstand high impact forces. Ok, I'll shut up now. Does anyone disagree with my opinions, please speak up.

Hey specialed, Here's some of my thoughts on the topic: Personaly I have given up on draging up an extra cord. If you are going to cary two, you might as well use them both to lead with-(many advantages). However, sometimes I use a thin Tag line on walls. I would go with 7 or 8mm staic-at least... For two reasons: 1. 6mm cord doesn't offer a whole lot of friction in your belay device. If you need to stop on the way down with an autoblock or the old leg wrap, it will suck. Plus you will wear out your hands. Funny Story: I once used a 6mm lower out line on the haul bags. My partner couldn't control the line on a really traversing pitch so it zipped out. The bags swong like 60ft or so, creaming a big dihederal. Next... the bottom of the poop tube went flying off and we jetosoned our load. 6 or 7 Depth charges sraight down on two the lower Nose. Bad Scene! I have to wear camo on El Cap now so someone doesn't recognize me!!! 2. Ok, back to reason #2. 6mm cord would be hard to short haul a pack with. 8mm would be much better. Easyier on your hands, and less likely to get chewed up. Way less of a mess. Have you ever tried to coil, or untangle 200ft of 6mm cord...SUCKS BALLS!!!!! My final word: If you are useing them for alpine or ice, invest in half ropes (well worth it). Save them for serious routes cause they wear out quick. If you want a tag line, I'd recomend 8mm staic (stronger, more friction, less tangley). Hope that helps, good luck.

Hey Caveman, Come on dude lets leave these poor kids out of this. My sister might also be in one of these pics. Not funny... quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: Specialed, I know you are in one of these pics

Ok, thats cool. I think I'd buy more Aliens before the book, but I think its pretty cool that he's doing something productive. I was a bit turned off when Chongo told me that all climbers today are idiots. But on the otherhand, hanging out under The Trip listening to him talk about quantum physics was quite surealistic. Even though I never asked for his opinion about the universe, it was pretty entertaining. My Christian wall partner didn't think so. I think El Cap is a worthy spot to hang out for a while. Much better than some street corner. Thanks for the info guys.

How the hell does someone go about losing the tent and sleeping bags!!!! You'd think these would be a couple important items to keep track of. It's not like dropping the lighter in the snow. You think they might of went for the summit in a whiteout? Theats the only way I can concieve losing the tent. Californians... shit.

I'd belay Lynn on the Nose. (With one of those really comfy seats!)

Well Mike, It seems like you already have "the list". I didn't find the crowds to be all that bad. We were the third out of five parties on Fairview, but it was cool. Everyone was really friendly and we all moved at a good pace. Everyone was way spred out after the third pitch. We did it in nine long pitches. The top three being fun scrambling. Do it... don't worry about the "5.9" or the people. I never put my feet in the crack, but there isn't much else for hands. It takes bomber gear, take doubles and lots 'o slings if you are worried about runouts, the pitches are long!!! Shit pull on a cam or two if you have too. You won't get struck by lightning, but you might get kicked out of the Trad Klan!!! My recomondation out of all the routes I've done in Toulumne around 5.9 or so: -Reg. on Fairview, for sure do it midweek and start at the crack of dawn, or afternoon if you are fast. -SW. Butt. of Cathedral, steller and fun routefinding, go light! -west crack, south crack, cryin' time -Lucky streaks is great but it has a couple harder pitches. Ahh... shit dude there are tons of cool climbs, just go for it! Drink lots of water, take some rest days in the middle, and use sunscreen! The Forest Service campsites outside the gate are much cheaper than the Toulumne Campground. Stock up on food and gas! Have fun!!

They rule... They do get wet, but they stay warm, like a wetsuit. I won't lead Ice in anything else! Worth the money for sure.

Has anyone seen this book? I here it cost $80, and is like 200 pages long or something. My conversation with Chongo was three hours long and went from hauling heavy bags-to the death of God-to the timelessness of Yosemite Valley-to Jesus' stint in Japan... Then he asked me for drugs or a ride into the village. My question is this- is that what his book is like? I want to learn more about walls, not existentailism. And I don't want to give Chongo all my money so he can hang out on the Sea and get fucked up. Is it worth it? Any thoughts, Chongo are you listening????

They could have made it up the pitch with any kind of heads. But its probably good that they bailed cause the storm was really bad. It lasted for about a week. He (the belayer, I forgot his name) told me they had an epic getting back under roof. Then they rapped straight down to Heart and left the bags hanging under the roof. Then he paid someone to jug up and bring em' down! I geuss he had to leave for work or somethin'. We roled in after the storm and spent about a week on the route, drinkin wine and doin' two or three pitches a day. If you'd like I can send you a gear list that would help you do it clean. It won't go fully clean unless the cruxes are fixed, and you arn't afraid to take 200ft whippers!! Needled to say I got some good experience nailing on that one!

Dan, I feel for ya man, it's tough to find a good partner this day and age. But I give you credit for putting in some effort and gettin' on some shit. It's cool if you only done "easy" stuff. Everyone has to start somewhere. Keep at it! I'd help you out, but I save the easy trips for my fiance! My word of wisdom... Since you are obviously willing to kick down and learn from the proffesionals, do yourself a favor. Spend a little more $ and learn some self rescue techniques. I can't believe that I climbed for almost twelve years without knowing how to escape the belay. I am just a lucky bastard. But If the shit goes down, you will want a bag of tricks to pull from. And I doubt the Mountaineers Basic Course gave you that bag. If you want to prove all these fools wrong, and really get serious about climbing, get the skills to deal with the shit BEFORE it hits the fan. Happy Climbing! [This message has been edited by lambone (edited 06-27-2001).]

"limpbone"!!!!!! Ohhhh dude... thats it man I'm callin' you out! Look Will, since you are only in the PNW to pay off your debt, I have no quams about telling you to go back to the east coast! Get out of here!! There are too many guides cluttering up these mountains already!

Sorry bro, I work on weekends.

Hey Ed, Thats strange, was your buddies fall on the Tripple Cracks pitch? If so I think I met those guys. Or at least I met a couple of guys from Missula that had to bail all the way from that pitch. The belayer had a broken nose, the leader ripped all the fixed stuff and didn't have the right size heads so they rapped all the way down. A nasty storm came in the next day, so they were better off. Anyway, if your into the "beta" thing, let me know. I did The Sheild last October and would love to talk about it some more!!!

Vertical World in Seattle has tiny La Sportiva slippers. They are like mini Nijas, and go from size 1 up. Can't remember how much they cost off the top of my head. Give VW or Marmot a call. See Ya!

Wow, I am surprised to see some restraint, last time we talked about this you were all about burnin down before gettin on lead. Don't let a little peak like Index stop ya! As for Marley, I was just kiddin'. Rage or Janes Addiction gets me jazzed to get roudy. But seriously, do'nt you think there would be less chance for rockfall when things are frozen up in winter?

Cool Cavey, But I will only get on it with you if we can listen to Marley all the way to the trailhead. Oh yeah, no puffin while on belay duty!!!

Hahahahaha... Sorry to disappoint you fellas, but I am not about to sell any of my gear anytime soon. Thanks for the suggestions, but my girl has way more class than any of us climbing bums. I asked her to get on El Cap for our honeymoon and she slapped me silly! We want to get married on a moutain, but it will be too expensive to helicopter our grandparents in. Oh well... And don't worry, I have already put a minimum climbing time alloted in our prenumtual agreement. Thanks for the concern you vultures!

Hey will, youre so right. However, the park service now strongly discourages climbing under glacier point, due to the big chunks of granite that killed a climber a year ago.

Hey Ed its me again. Alpine routes in Toulomne: -Matthes(?) Crest -West Ridge of Conness or link up North Ridge of North Peak and N Ridge of Conness. -Third Piller of Mt. Dana Whitney is of course more beautifull alpine granite. But I hear the hike in is a bit of a drag. Lots of poeple on the East But. Keeler looks sick. If I were going to do one wall. Probably Zodiac. You'll wait in line but its worth it. All the cruxes are usually fixed. It goes clean with some fancy doo-dads. The Shield is pretty(except for the pin scars), but hauling the first half sucks balls. Of course if you free climb strong, The Nose is your ticket. If you want something to remind you of Montana, get on the NA! Have fun. [This message has been edited by lambone (edited 06-26-2001).]

Yeah, but the approach is a bitch with full bags. Doable for sure, but not fun. I have allways wanted to do Tisasack, but I am waiting for Chris to rebolt the anchors! People will laugh, but I am taking pack mules up there to hump the haulbags. Spray all you want, the fact is I only have so many of those approaches in my feeble knees! If you want both chanlenging aid and free, the Sheild is sweet. You might like the freeblast (I didn't). And the upper headwall offers some heads up clean aid! I have my eyes on Mescalito- in my opinion the most beautifull aspect on El Cap, and a nice sustained route. The North America wall might be for you guys. Lots of free climbing, and the crux 2nd and 3rd pitches are super fun.

Whats up with all this ebonics shit lately, you guys all go watch some boyz in the hood or somethin?