Lambone

Nice job Kalun, congradulations on a successful climb! Thanks for the beta. How come only two hours of sleep? Was it cold, or were the picas botherin' ya? Take it easy! -Lambone

Please submit all Trad-Klan applications to either Dru, Erik, or Pope (wherever the hell he is). DO NOT submit to Dwayner, he is just a poser. All applications will be reviewed on a first-come-first-serve basis. Spots are limited and standards are high, so please list all of your qualifications. Good Luck, and if at first you don't succeed, try, and try again. Sincerely, The Bone

Dude, you're a poser...

quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: I hear those bolts are the type that are screw in\removable ones........They are an uncommon type of bolt that screws into a threaded insert that is left in the rock. There are two of those up on El Cap's Sheild route. Sport aid clibing anyone? Takes the A4 out of aid climing, oh and Alien offsets take the A3 out of aid climbing!!!!!!!!!!!!

Whats the matter Tim, not gettin' paid enough!!! Ha, Ha...

I use to be sold on TCU's, but after using aliens, and BD's I have found that they fit flaring placements much better. The Camolots fill out flares really nicely. Alien's as well, but aliens tend to pick up dirt and grime and become sticky easily.

Wrong spot PP... Hey erik, how about helping me pull off an insurance scam? [This message has been edited by lambone (edited 07-11-2001).]

You need alot more than that Dru, too bad your strap-on wont work for that.

Dru, I hear that!!!!!!! But everyonce in a while a little natural born cranker comes in for the first time and I can see the exitement in their eyes. It makes me want to take them up into the hills. I guess I am looking forward to having a kid of my own for that reason.

Yeah, I like setting routes way more than climbing in the gym. Its good training too, good for the abs... Most of all I like being around new climbers. Its cool to see their energy. They are phsched on the sport and its all new to them. It brings me back to the good old days... I feel a sense of gratification when I can teach someone about climbing, hopefully so they can avoid deadly mistakes. It makes me realize how lucky I am. People spray about newbies all the time, but they inspire me. Especially the young ones. The ones who suck are the ones who don't give climbing the respect it deserves.

I work at the Gym in Seattle. It supplements my food and bills while I am in school. I used to climb there alot more before I got a job there. Now when I am done with work I just want to go home, and its the last place I want to be on my day off! Why am I not out climbing right now? Cause I am too busy blowing off my homework. And all my partners only have weekends off. Some day I fear I will be in their shoes...

The moral of the story is: You need two bags, or three, or four. Suck it up and spend the $. Down is the way to go for quick blasts, cause if it rains you'll probably just go to Vantage anyway. And synthetic is good for when you know you will be out and you don't have the luxury of just hiking out to the trailhead. I use my synthetic for Walls, Wet trips, and car camping. Down is the way to go for everything else. If it rains, make keeping your bag dry the number one priority, and hope you have a good bivi sac.

I think that alot of coffee is a good substitute for training. Dru, nice to know you were once a gym employee... I guess we have something in common after all.

Warning! The following material is not for viewers under the age of 18. We were coming home from Nepal and had a 12 hr layover in Bankok. So my rowdy partner wants to go to the red light district...of course. So we catch a taxi out of the airport, and the guy takes us to the dirtiest part of town and charges us way too much. Anyway, a lot of crazy shit happens that night, but the toughest thing I saw was when a woman got up on stage and proceded to stuff a string full of razorblades up her you know what, and then pull 'em out! All with a smile on... Some might say that's gross, or sad, I say that is freakn' tough!

Its my secret weapon! Hands off! I did leave one fixed on a 5.8 squeeze down in Yosemite, if you really need one that bad...

Oh yeah Will, do Ingalls midweek for sure... One rope, stoppers and Hexes is all you need.

Funny.... I guess it would be pretty hard in a cast too!! I think I'll leave the 00 behind...

Hey yall... I was wondering if anyone had recomendations for footwear on the North Ridge? I am thinking about light hikers w/strap-ons and carrying light climbing shoes. Its that or do the whole thing in my big ass boots. What have you had luck with, or what sucked? Thanks, matt

Whatever tough guy...

My buddie and I were skiing a chute at Bridger Bowl in Bozeman Mt. It was pretty steep, and cliffed out with a 15 footer at the bottom. I went for it and waited underneith for Jeff. Then, in horror, I watch him lose his edge and toumble down the cliff. He ends up in a pile at the bottom, jumps up and yells, "AHHH FuuuCCKK!" I say, "Dude chill out here and I'll go get the ski patrol." "Screw that man, I'm going to the bar!" "Are you sure" So he gets his ski back on with some pain and effort and beelines it for the bar. I cant even keep up with him. When I get there he is allready pounding a beer. I look at him and see that his bibs are all red and the spot is growing fast. "Oh shit, I guess I better go to first aid." Turns out he has a compound fracture of the hip. Just goes to show that hockey players from Chicago are tough Mo Fo's...

Matt- How about little si on wed.? Or index?

Cool, thanks Fred, that sounds great. Only my girl has her eyes on one of the "big well known ones". Don't ask me why, I fear the spray that will come from her reasoning. We want to do Ranier together in the next couple of years, and we are looking for some good training routes, cause there ain't no way were paying a guide. Any other suggestions would be great.

Howdy Folks! Did any of you get up Mazama Glacier this season? I am considering it as a posible route for me and my girl. We want a straightforward glacier with easy route finding and little objective danger. We are both pretty new to glacier travel, but we don't really want to go up the mule route... Any one recomend this route, or have info on its condition? Our dates are the first week of August, is that gettin' too late? Are there any other recomended August Routes? Did Sitcum last year. Thanks All, Matt

He's right about the aluminum, but they wont stand up to alot of abuse. I have been happy with my BD Sabertooths. Trango Extremes will take them.

Back to the topic... Its not only new climbers that are all about bolting everything. Look at Warren Harding, he bolted all kinds of chimneys up in the High Sierra. Not to mention the Valley... "Old Schoolers" are too self rightious about the purity of their generation. There are always rotten eggs in the batch, whether they taste bad is a matter of personal preference.