Lambone

Sorry erik, the only reason I'm looking at this stupid computer is cause I have to be at work in a couple hours. You'll have to pull a solo mission. Bring two six packs!

I'm on my way Dru! Grab your shovel! No, grab two shovels, we may break one!

What can I say, Dwayners rubbing off on me! Sorry it didn't work out bro, at least it ain't goin nowhere! [This message has been edited by lambone (edited 07-30-2001).]

Huh? Whatcha mean? You talkin about beers again! If so I'm glad that wasn't you behind us. Those boys must have been hurtin'!! [This message has been edited by lambone (edited 07-30-2001).]

Ev, Light hikers on the approach, rock shoes on the climb. I remember doing alot of smearing on slabs and such. You could do it in boots, but it wouldn't be as fun!

If it's raining, all you have to do is get yourself a sixpack, head up to Index with you aiders and get mid-evil on that shit!

quote: Originally posted by EV: IAMBONE: When did you start and when did you finish, car-to-car? Also, did you do the entire north ridge, or did you skip the lower pitches? Finally, how many "pitches" were there, and how much would you say was done as running belays? TIA EV, Sounds like you want some specific beta. I wasn't going to spray about this unless someone asked. So, here goes... We did the upper ridge. We left the car at 2:30 am. Friday Hit Goat Pass at 7:30 am. The notch at 9:30 am. Gendarm at 3:30 pm. Summit at 6:30 pm. 16 hours car to summit Ingalls Creek trail at 11:30 pm. Ingalls Lake-don't ask... Car-9:30 am.Saturday 16 hours summit to car Total-32hours Total sleep time 2-4 wet shivering hours! I did't count how many pitches we did, I would guess about 10 (8 were REALLY cool!). And we simo-climed on about half of them. Rope drag was a big problem, I would suggest tying in short with only 30m between each climber. Bring doubles on pro and lots of big slings if you want to simo alot of it. There are lots of good belay ledges that are hard to pass up! I think this is a very do-able pace. We were really tired from only two hours of sleep Thursday night so we were taking it super slow and carefull. Saftey, not speed record was our primary goal. Our only concern was reachin' the summit before rain, and Coluoir before dark. DO NOT underestimate the decsent (we did), if you don't know the right way (we didn't) it can really suck, and be very dangerous. I was very glad to have crampons on Stuart Glaicer at 8:00 am Fri. And was very sad that my warm sleeping bag was at Ingalls Lake at 2:00 am Sat. I'd cary it over next time or leave it where Longs Pass trail meets Ingalls Creek trail. We skipped the Gendarm because we were beat, but at least I have a reason to go back and do it again! Hope this helps, get on it! It's as good as they say it is! One more thing... it's Lambone!! [This message has been edited by lambone (edited 07-29-2001).]

Cavey, Dude, how come you post with the angry face all the time now? How did the N Ridge go? Was that you behind us? I hope it wasn't epic.

Once again: Moose Drool

Cool, thanks for the suggests fellas! The crux is choosing from all the wonderfull peaks up here. I have always though the Cascades couldn't hold a stick to the Sierra's... then I got on Stuart-WOW! Now I realize how much I can learn from these peaks. Mike, There was a party of two guys behind us. I'm not sure if it was Cavey, but judging how slow they were moving I asume it was!!!!! Just kidding, I'd be nicer but they wouldn't wave back to us. Just trying to be freindly guys...we topped out at 6:30 and they party was still three pitches below the Gendarm. I assume they were forced to bivi, and I really hope they made it off safely. The weather blew in right after we summited, and I was feeling for those two poor bastards. Once again, I hope it wasn't too harsh up there for ya... Chugach, Be glad you bailed, Saturday morning was shit! Couldn't even see Stuart from Ingalls Lake... You made a good decision! We got lost in the bottom of the Colouir on our descent (SUCK!!!). Cliffs, darkness, loose rock, bushwacking, the works. Some how we stagared down. P.S. Cashing bivi gear at Ingalls Lake is only a good idea if you are sure you can make it back up there (SUCK!!) Needles to say I got to test how warm my pack is. I forgot to give thanks to the rain gods for letting us get down before pissing on our heads. Thanks. Anyway, I'll shut my trap now! [This message has been edited by lambone (edited 07-29-2001).]

This is how I felt after hour 22 when we finally made it down the Cascade Couloir. But I have to say that the Upper North Ridge on Stuart is one of the coolest climbs I've ever done! Such great climbing with such awsome exposure is hard to find. I gots to give thanks to my partner Tim the hardman from Iowa, and to all the folks who I nagged for beta. Thanks Yall! So for all those who haven't been up it, ya got to get on the thing... So for discussions sake, who can think of a long alpine climb in the Cascades that can top the North Ridge of Stuart? I feel like I might as well just quit climbing now, cause it can't get any better than that! I need a new objective, who can help me out? Lambone [This message has been edited by lambone (edited 07-29-2001).]

Dru, don't forget to cite your sources!

The ants go marching on...

Sorry, just had to add my two cents!

what can I say, I can't get enough!

dope

Damn, why didn't it work. I suck... [This message has been edited by lambone (edited 07-26-2001).]

Hey Will, Peace bro! sweeeeeet

No shit Dru, Thanks for clearing that up for me...

Aermet Picks rule. If you can find 'um, and afford um.

Just let me know if you need a partner. All you need are shoes that fit, I've got all the rest... Sincerely, The Gym Rat

My favorite example of route restoration is that of Warren Hardings first ascent on the Porciline Wall. First he drilled the rock, then he chopped the rivets so no one else could repeat the route. God I love that guy! Screw you guys; for making a somewhat usefull (although maybe wrong) peace of metal into a absolutely useless peice of trash. You've stepped up into discracing the rock again, after it has been discraced once. Ever hear the old saying "Two wrongs don't make a right?" [This message has been edited by lambone (edited 07-25-2001).]

Hey Will, Isn't that you clipping that fat bolt in Rock and Ice this month? Or is that the other Will Strickland from Portland? What's up "all a rounder"? You to cool for bolts now? So you threw away your TV, big deal...Why didn't you donate it to the Salvation Army? My guess is that it was broken, 'cause you couln't plug it in to your cigarette lighter, or you couldn't pay the power bill! Keep in mind that your quest for "spiritual development" and "plaing" are privliges of White Middle Class Americans who have the luxury of selling their car so he can concentrate on climbing more... oh, just rambling again. But really, I'm curious... How does ripping bolts out of a rock help you "improve yourself"? And who are you to judge which bolts should be ripped out and which shouldn't? More importantly, how does it help others? Sounds like a selfish endevor to me. No hard feelings Will I just question your motives, and I'm not sold on all the non-materialistic spiritual-hippe bullshit. I enjoyed your article in the Mag. It was about the most interesting thing in it! [This message has been edited by lambone (edited 07-25-2001).]

Did you guys bivi on Red Line, or did it go in a day?