Lambone

how about best display of verbal abuse toward belayer who didn't feed out the slack quick enough. hey erik, one of those catagories wasn't directed towards me was it

hmmm...yeah, she was out of reach, I realed in the slack and she was protected. but with almost 60m of rope out, there wasn't much else I could do. it was jsut one of those odd circumstances. we had a laugh about it later.

That sucks... Chrysten and I were in thailand doin some sport climbing. I led this long (30m) route and rigged a TR. The crux of the route was about 6 ft off the ground. She said keep me tight, I said ok, I'll try, but the rope is going to stretch alot and you'll probably hit the ground, but it should be soft. She gives it a try, gets to the crux after two or three moves and falls. As expected the rope stretched and she came back down to the ground. Then the weirdest thing happened. She sort of fell backwards, and I thought she was going to smack the back of her head. But instead, the taught rope sprung her back up fast! She flung up, and slammed her face straight into a small tree! She gave me that look that kids get just after they get hurt, before they explode in a howl and ball of tears! Chrysten didn't do that, but it definately hurt alot. She spent the next week in Thialand with a huge black eye... I felt terrible, but wasn't quite sure what I could have done differently, let her hit the ground harder????

New catagories to add to Gym Climbing competitions: -extra points for making the loudest most desperate scream on each move... -extra points for the number of times you can chalk up between each move, plus bonus points if you blow the chalk off your finger tips... -big shoe competiton...who can climb a 5.12 in the biggest shoes... -most tape on your fingers award... -longest whipper...who can come closest to hitting the ground by skipping clips... -belayer competition for who can catch the longest whipper with a hip belay... -any more????

Last season I started up the final WI4 pitch of Synchronicity, confirming with my partner that he'd have me on belay by the time I placed my first screw. The climbing was easy so I cruzed up 20 ft or so and sunk a bomber screw. I looked down to confirm I was on belay, and saw this: My buddy had the ATC clipped striaght into one titanium crew I asked him, uhhhh...whatcha got goin on down there bro? He said, "oh you're on belay, go for it" I asked him politely to please belay me off his harness instead, and he began to agrue with me about it. "Dude its bomber man, don't sweat it" and I was like nah bra, it ain't, I'm not sking you, I'm telling you, belay me off your harness! Luckily he agreed, because my fingers were getting cold and I wasn't about to try to explain the physics of belaying to him from my position. I'd still go climbing with him, the dude is funny as hell! And hey, you ain't supposed to fall off an ice climb anyway right!

nothing

quote: Originally posted by chucK: your employers might be trying to foster an atmosphere of elitism and cliqueishness. If that is the case, you are helping them out, and doing a good job. Nevermind.[/QB] Once again I roll my eyes at your lame comment As if every climbing gym in the counrty doesn't foster elitism and cliqueishness. This is no secret man...get over your resentment.

well put.

quote: Originally posted by chucK: Doesn't all this crap from Lamb, making fun of his customers, really give you the urge to go plunk down 15 smackers for a couple of hours of breathing gravel grit? One more free bit of advice Lamb. While making fun of your customers/clients is a time-honored tradition, it is usually done discreetly. Belittling the clientelle who are indirectly paying your wage on a public forum (that many of your clientelle might actually read!) is just plain hazardous to your employment status. what ever dude...if people are so sensitive that our little list realy offends them, well then thats too bad. Are you an unhappy person? Look around, smile once in a while...realize that you yourself constantly belittle people on this public forum before you start accusing other people of it. Retro, I got plenty of respect for the old school. But I think hip belays are best saved for alpine situations when anchors are less than adequate to hold the increased forces of a fall that result from the static nature of belay devices. I'm just sayin that I wouldn't want to catch leader falls in the gym with a hip belay, not that it is impossible. You guys neeed to lighten up. If you do not see the humor in that list, then your are probably better off, it means you don't spend much time climbing indoors. Good for you. [ 05-17-2002, 10:03 AM: Message edited by: Lambone ]

All I can say is ouch! Actually, the funiest thing I saw during a belay test was when a person tried to combine both the hip belay method, and the ATC. Picture that...yes both methods at once, rope went in one side of the ATC, around the waist, then out the other side of the ATC! Classic...Reinforces the importance of strict belay tests eh... Then just last week there was the 6 year old girl that decided she didn't need a rope! We had to run up and snag her 15 ft up the wall! Gotta love those kids! They put the B in Bold....

loser you didn't raise a stink, you were an asshole, go home punk

obviously, be the better man Adian...hey Larson, when are you gunna get in on this action??? [ 05-16-2002, 09:12 PM: Message edited by: Lambone ]

I second that, ran into some pretty bad flies up in Boston Basin last summer...even above the tree line! At leats the majority were the little kind, and the big ones were slow enough to catch and sacrafice to the fly catcher gods.

quote: Originally posted by Colin: I don't have a scanner at home, but there's one at school that I might be able to use. If I were to scan my slides onto the hard-disk at the school computer, how would I go about putting them onto the site -- do they need to be on a webpage? Colin, and anyone else who has noticed yet: Jon has finished the new photo album. There is a link to it on the home page. Anyone who is registered can up load their photos to it. Go to the homepage, click on New Photo Album click on Upload, and follow the directions. Some cool photos are on there already, enjoy.

really pope, I'm disappointed...I thought for sure you'd come up with something better then that. That kinda thing happens every day at the climbing gyms across the country. Nothing gives a 20 year old disgrunteled gym employee more joy and satisfaction than failing an old-schooler on his belay test, especialy because they never heard "take." It's just greqat when they have never seen an atc before, nothing gets 'um more frustrated. Or when they are so comfortable from belaying for sooooooo many years that it doesn't bother them one bit to take the break hand off the rope, they've got it all under control . My personal favorite was when a guy tried to give me a hip belay...ohhh that made my day! Give it another shot there pope, and this time give it more than a half hearted effort. I know you can give us all a good laugh Cheers [ 05-16-2002, 08:49 PM: Message edited by: Lambone ]

now thats the spirit!

Right on will, just think how far you've come since those days of eating mescaline on tour... See ya in Camp. Look for a chain smoker and a dude who looks like he doesn't know what he's doing...I'll put a sign up.

It's obvious that most of us are sick of the old bolt/no-bolt ethical debate. So while pulling plastic last night, glen and I came up with a new hot topic of discussion. What sort of ethical standards need to be addressed in today’s climbing gym scene? Here is a list glen and I came up with, feel free to add to it or offer your opinion in general. Don't be shy...gym climbing is not a sin, everyone does it sooner or later. Gym Climbing’s leading Ethical Debates, Should you… 1. …eventually throw those rotten shoes out, just because your partner keeps bugging you about it? 2. …try to look experienced by leaving all your quickdraws and cordellets attached to your harness..? 3. …tell a route setter that there new climb sucks cause it’s a reachy sandbag? 4. …bring your barking dog to the gym with you..? 5. …bring your crying baby to the gym with you? 6. …give the birthday party kids more sugar? 7. …convince birthday party kids that they are going to die? 8. …convince birthday party kid’s parents that their children are going to die? 9. …pretend that you know how to belay if you just learned in the car? 10. …use the wire toothbrush or the nylon toothbrush on that new Pusher sloper? 11. …steal the gyms rental chalk bags while no one is looking? 12. …steal your partner’s chalk when they aren’t looking? 13. …use the gyms finger tape instead of investing 1.50 on your own supply? 14. …sneak that one extra move above the bouldering height limit? 15. …wear that new tight spandex even though you just began your diet program? 16. …force your kid to “make it to the top or else…!”? 17. …look bored when belaying? After all, attention while belaying makes the gym seem like a dangerous place. 18. …carry a selection of colored tape on routes with you? Never know when you might need another hold… 19. …leave your rope and other gear on the floor for the staff to store in the lost ‘n found for you? You’ll be back in two days anyway right… 20. …pretend that you know the local old school cascades hard men/women to impress your girlfriend? 21. …should you throw your newbie boy/girl friend on your latest project just to show them how hard you climb? 22. …rat on the staff because they are bouldering or reading magazines while you need help? 23. …leave any slack in the TR. This may force a climber to climb a move twice while 'working' a crux. 24. …complain about the music again? 25. Finally, should you spin a hold after a route has been set? Changing the landscape of the climb to fit your needs is both unaesthetic and indicates that you will stoop to over-wrenching rather than rise to the challenge of the climb. [ 05-16-2002, 03:46 PM: Message edited by: Lambone ]

I saw the photo's last night(sweet). Colin seems too young and innocent to make this up, probably hasn't been corrupted by the likes of satans clan yet.

quote: Originally posted by Bug: What I don't understand is why you didn't take shoes and do the gendarm. That is one of my favorite pitches. Good climbing Colin! North Ridge was their plan B.

sure

Nice one Colin, met you in Feathered Freinds tonight. (I was the one asking Eric about the metolius dasies) Anyway, those pics were sweet, you should scan some and post'em here. Way to get after it dude! But that signiture has got to go...

Carolyn, anyone who ice climbs regularly is automaticaly elivated from newbie status. Sorry, but you can't rely on that excuse anymore. Have a geat trip in the Cascades!

Yeah, but you don't even have to climb above it. Just like being on top rope.

I know jkrueger, I'm just kidding. relax...I don't give a shit what erik does to my posts, it was just spray anyway. He is still in his posuer denial phase. you are right though.