Lambone

Anyone aware of the current access to the trailhead? We are considering an over night ski trip this weekend.

Crackhead, Yeah, eyeballed those other two routes, but was feeling spanked by Off Duty and the other. It's hard to judge the grade of those slabby things. 5.8 and 5.9, damn... next time I guess. I thought the bolts were placed pretty well. Most were on blanck face. The middle one was sorta near good gear, then the top two were also on the face. Those climbs are cool.

Nice man! We climbed at Duty Dome on Sunday and had the whole thing to ourselves! Anyone know what that new route to the right of "Off Duty" is? It felt 5.10ish, but it'd be nice to know for sure. Great route! Today we qued up on Givlers Crack, for the first time. Pretty nice indeed, though I'm not a big fan of slopey domes. We were the tird of four parties this morning. Nice weekend for Leavenworth, although town was a freakin zoo! Drive home took 4 hours

damn thats a good deal...

quote: Originally posted by gregm: not sure if this has been brought up, but the weakness of daisies is not the tensil strength but the fact that they are not dynamic and consequently exert a huge force on the anchor or your body. if you are clipped to an anchor at or feet and take a fall you end up taking a factor 2 fall and the resulting stresses on the system. (at least this is what i think i read by something by petzl). you also never want to clip two loops because the you are only on the stitching between the loops. if you clip one loop you are on a bar tacked runner. that said my vote is: i always tie off on a clove. but i keep a daisy ready on my harness for 1) setting up rapels sometimes and 2) unfucking the rope and 3) reserve tank runner / anchor material. Greg, you're totaly right. Although tieing into the anchor with four feet of rope is esentialy static as well...would you agree?

...you started the Gym Climbing Ethics thread... how much worse could it get...

Like I said, Fowler doesn't use daisies, he ties straight in with the rope. A while back the AMGA did a test on knot strength. They found that the figure 8 was much stronger than a clove hitch when tieing into the anchor. You use what you want, I'm just relaying the facts. I looked for info on the AMGA page, but could only come up with this: chord strength study You can disagree with Charlie, but just remember, he's been guiding for 25 years, and seen some shit. Now he tests prospective AMGA guides in the field. Plus, he's a nice guy...

uuuuhhhhhh.....hmmmmm......naaaaawwwwwhhhhhh....gggggrrrrr

-you moved to Seattle from Montana to finish school...but you're failing school because of cc.com...

quote: Originally posted by erik: quote:Originally posted by iain: ...if you've ever self-arrested to avoid falling into the parking lot. you know one time after a long night climbing one of the w side routes...i was almost to the parking lot and my one leg punched through the embankment and one leg sunk up to my knee and my body carried over my leg...... now that hurt...... After our epic backcountry wilderness adventure I saw MATT H. fly off the road cut on his tele skis and land 6 ft down flat on the concrete... He STUCK it! perfect end to a not so perfect day... [ 05-23-2002, 05:27 PM: Message edited by: Lambone ]

you register at REI for wedding gifts....uuuhhh...oooohhh wait, nevermind

Not sure...I guess never heard of it happening though. Seems like your back would be more screwed than anything else...

ummm..just don't spit on the floor at the gym ok.

quote: Originally posted by richard noggin: I smell a Troll! You guys are so easy! Really! This is like the virus hoax going around! Only the real suckers would bite on this one. Did you delete the Java debugger file also Jim Herson is a reliable source. You may recall that he climbed the Salathe for breakfast, and the Nose for lunch one day. Another day while feeling like a light snack, he did the Salathe and the Reg Route on Half Dome. That ain't no joke.

quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: It is not stronger than the rope... The rope is your life. Plus I always climb with 24 inch runners. I can use those for daisies if need be. Daisy chains are a waste of weight IMHO. umm...well, actually a daisy is stronger than a clove hitch as Bronco mentioned. Charlie Fowler once told me that a clove hitch slips at around 600lbs or so. He doesn't use daisies either, but says that you should definately tie in with a figure 8, not a clove hitch. don't kill me

quote: Originally posted by erden: Well, here I was climbing at the Redmond VW last night. This lady was climbing with a ring on her middle finger. I was next to her belayer, and told him that he should tell her to take the ring off when she comes down, cuz she may leave skin, or at worst a finger up there. He laughed, and when she came down, I observed no such effort on his part. Then she proceeded to belay him. I told her the same, and she said "I have been climbing 20 years and had no problem ever." I said that I knew of people who now have four fingers on one hand because they got their ring caught while falling; and she went "lalalala"... What's the general concensus on this? The shame is the same lady would sue Vertical World if she actually did cut/lose her finger if something did catch !!! Erden. Good question. i seeyour point, and I often recomend that my students remove there rings. However, I never considered the rings dangerous to the climber, but the holds dangerous to the ring. Basicaly I did not want to hear someone complain that their 10,000$ engagement ring got scratched. I suppose you have a legitimate concern, however, it would be almost imposible for the VW staff to police such a rule. The last thing people want is more rules...Its hard enough keeping them under the bouldering limit, and keeping their shirts on. We consider risk management and saftey to be our number one concern, but I have never heard of any injury or complaint about problems caused by a ring. I don't think such a law suit would hold up in court. Ever see a newbie stick one finger through a bolt?! oooowwwweeeee

quote: Originally posted by iain: Heard talk of daisies being used as belay anchors? Most companies design them simply to hold body weight (though they can clearly hold much more based on break strength, they bar-tack for body weight on those loops). Has someone heard otherwise? Clipped in at each end, it is a full strenght runner. But the bar tacks are only bodyweight or so. So much of the strength is determined by how you clip it in. If you clip into two loops next to eachother and the bar tack blows...your biner is no longer a part of the continous loop. Does that make sense?

quote: Originally posted by rbw1966: I'm pretty fond of my metolius adjustable daisies. I just got a pair as well and I am allready in love. Although i'll probably only use 'em for aiding.

Sure you don'twant to sell those leeper hangers...I got some rebolting to do...

Messing with the original character of a classic historical route such as the Salathe is just not cool. I agree with Erik, if your not ready to step up to the challange of the gnar...keep off the route. The bolts will probably be gone by the end of the season. Leaving only an ugly reminder of some ignorant fools stupidity and arrogance.

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?m=3259&f=0&b=0

nice photos

Sorry guys, Trey's playin tonight. Trey Have fun at de pub! [ 05-21-2002, 02:33 PM: Message edited by: Lambone ]

...if it takes three weeks for your gear to dry out in your basement.