bigwallben

Thanks. So, sounds like nobody on this site has redpointed it; or perhaps they are too humble to comment.

Second ascent? The guide reads unrepeated. True? False? Rumor has it that perhaps Dan Lepeska did this thing? Has anyone who frequents this site tried? What was it like?

Thanks for giving that thing a scrub Jens!

Just an fyi: Jap p1-4 are all completely clean. The last two anchors have been replaced by the human mullet. Regarding technicians...I scrubbed the first crux pitch. It is still completely climbable. Yes, some small shrubery show up on the final .10 section...but if you can get there, I don't think it will stop you. Also, if you are linking Japanese through upper TPVM, it is Clean. Very Very clean. I made a scrub mark you can probably see from the top of Mt. Index. Climbed this linkup for the first time a month ago. It is a great linkup offering interesting 5.11 climbing. Go get em peeps.

Small world. I met James Lucas one year after the accident, while he was still limping around and just starting to climb again. I'd heard that he was free soloing 5.9's when he could barely climb 5.10b at the time. Is that true? No.

Has this crack seen a second ascent?

Where is this? Australia somewhere I think... Passport to insanity. Australia. 12-

There is a no hands butt scum just before pulling over the last bulge. This climb would definitely be 12a at squampton.

The 'grand' dries super fast...not so sure about the other. Do cruel shoes through the grand Dave. Classic. The upper pitches on the Black Dike however...are not classic. Ben

I've heard of that 'Sum' thing...is it true that it is the bomb?

Bump.

bump.

I'm going to say Snake Dike if you have not climbed in the great ditch before. Great hike, views, climbing...just know that weekends are the worst time to be climbing anything 5.10 and below, and of average or high quality. If you want an adventure and solace...perhaps try arrowhead arete.

No,crowded areas are bullshit. with routes from 5.10 to 5.12, chances of being crowded ever = 0% I predict this cliff with basic sport-tug routes will be crowded once everyone is in the know.

No,crowded areas are bullshit.

Buy one of these: If I recall correctly, my alarm woke me up at 630am. Thanks for the advice though. Ben

-Japenese Gardens p2, p3 p4. -Stiff Kittens -Cheesburgers on Trial -TPMV p2, p3, p4 -Trout Farm Massacre. -Journey to Pitar The natural approach for all these pitches is Japenese Gardens. Godzilla, Princley through Newest and the GNS are also options but most of the time are jammed. One could get there from the Middle Wall...but that would take hours. Did TPMV's upper pitches last weekend and the aid climbers racking up at the base of Japanese were kind enough to let us through. Thank you to whoever that was. The amount of days that I have gone to the lower wall to climb these upper pitches and had to scrap those plans because of mega huge top rope parties dominating the first 50' of Japenese gardens is staggering. I'm hopeful that someday those climbers who love to hangout on this small chunk of amazing stone will realize what lies above, and that there are potentially climbers who would love to get up there. I didn't remove the anchor but I do support the removal of this anchor. This is a bottleneck problem. That said, I understand the much larger majority of Index enthusiasts who just can't wait till the weekend to camp out beneath Japanese Short and test their mettle on one of the shortest 10a's around. Happy Climbing! Ben Gilkison

Hi, Selling new Gamma SV Jacket mens small, color Grizzly. reg $260 asking $150. Send me pm if your interested. Ben

bump.

I'm sorry to say that I will be in Zion...I will try to be good by scrubbing up routes later this summer.

bump.

Hi, Currently I have brand new Black Diamond Double Skylounge and Fly w/ poles in my closet which I have never found a use for. I am the type that would rather keep climbing, go light and suffer on the wall. Yours for $600. Ben G.

I have been there for most of a couple sept/october's...it is usually way too hot in Aug. Also, there are thunderstorm problems that time of the year. Good luck

Huh?

Yes, boys. Index is the big boys club. Big climbs...small grades. The grade suggestions simply put you in the general neighborhood. That said, sagg is definitely pumpy for 5.9 if that is the suggested grade.