hasbeen

Shred: Why would there have been lees force on the anchor on rappel than when lowering? Who would have built the rappel anchor? It seems to me that if Anna had rapped off the climb the results would have been far worse. As for the force issue, it seems to me that being lowered on a single strand that went from the belayer on the ground through the topmost anchor and through all of the pro leading up to would have a provided many "force absorbers" in the form of rope stretch, the dynamics of the bely and the friction generated by running through whatever pro was already in. The rap, on the other hand would have involved a double stand through the top anchor with almost no rope stretch (at lease at the start of the rap and no intermediate pro to generate any friction or absorb any force. Moreover, if the rap were set up by pulling the rope through the intermediate pro, there would have been nothing to catch Anna when the anchor pulled. On the second issue, Anna would still have built the anchor and it does not sound like that would have led to a different result. I have to vote against the rappel... Just my $.02, however.

Are they new? Do they fit your foot? If yes, then they are worth $160, IMHO. I like mine for just about any summer climbing, from volcanoes to alpine. I've heard that the Trango S is a little more comfortable for walking (a bit more rocker?) but I can't compare since i've never worn the S.

I'll second the vote for Frostbite Ridge. It's a fun route. I was on it about a month and a half ago so my observations about conditions won't be worth much but ice was starting to show on the steeper sections below the rabbit ears at that time. There were pretty good steps all the way up from the descent after going through the ears. Have fun.

Try (360)873-4500.

14 miles. Every day unless I need my car for work, which is almost never. What a great way to start the day and an even better way to blow off steam after dealing with difficult clients and other folks!!! Honestly, the ride in and home is the high point of almost every day.

I was there on Saturday, too. I can't add anything to the prior posts -- lots of people, lots of sun, lots of snow, lots of turns, lots of grins. But there were also lots of snow machines... We were sitting around the rim and, unbelievably, some 'biler charged right up and over the crest, about 18 inches (I am not exagerating) from a couple of guys sitting around soaking up some sun. The 'biler then turned behind them, again about 18 inches away, and went along the cornice ridge, behind me, too, and stopped a ways away toward the summit. In about five minutes, another one came charging up the same track. The climbing ranger came over to chat and asked us if any of us felt like our safety was compromised by the 'biler's actions. The folks the 'biler went closest to said they felt a little uncomfortable. The ranger then said that if we didn't like the situation we should write to the head of the monument and to the Region 6 forester in Portland. I am going to do so and I urge all of you who believe that snow machines do not belong on the summit of St. Helens to do the same. You can get the necessary addresses off the Gifford Pinchot web site. In defense of the 'bilers, the ranger said they were pretty decent guys who were actually quite contrite about the whole thing. The ranger said that they couldn't really see where people were sitting as they crested the ridge and felt real bad about coming so close but that by the time they actually crested the ridge, it was too late to change direction... Believe what you want but even if this is true, it further emphasizes the inappropriateness of snow machines in a place like the St. Helens summit. I know this subject wa recently flogged to death so I am just writing to urge like mined folks to write letters. The ranger seemed to think it would really do something.

Thanks, NoToes. I can't disagree with your reaction to the "pay for the road to end" deal.

Hey, NoToes, could you drive all the way to the trailhead? If not, how far away did you have to stop. I know it will offend some that I am not on the road checking for myself but since you were there... Thanks for any info.

I am sorry to hear this and my sympathies to you, Dwayner. One of my earliest memories is of spending hours looking over my Dad's battered copy of Kon-Tiki and being utterly transported to a world of adventure. It is one of the first books I remember and I can still see in my mind many of the pictures. I really think I can trace my love of adventure and, in my own insignificant way, the unknown to that book. I am sure that many others could say the same thing.

I do. It works great, I think.

Bentgate is having a ski sale right now. Used rental gear also. I'd recommend them for a domestic source with pretty good selection.

And his "Downward Bound" is probably the funniest climbing book ever written. Hoist one (or several) for Batso!

I recently got the same treatment with a 20-year old XGK (minus the shaker jet as this could not be retrofitted into a stove as old as mine). I'm old too but I don't have a beard. Not to burst your bubble but I think it's just a pretty darn good company.

I still use my old Chouinard Alpine hammer, though I don't climb steep ice much any more. I use my old Chouinard "North Wall Hammer" with the blue epoxy shaft that rattles pretty regularly and still like it a lot (though it's a little heavier than my Air Tech Racing). I still have an old terrordactyl (you know, the one with the funky spliced polypropylene "leash") but I don't use it and can't believe I ever did. Finally, I still use my Kastinger double leather "tele" boots and Trucker Mountain Edge skis and find them just the thing for some early spring climbs.

I have a single wall from Integral Designs. It was cheaper than the similar Bibler and is made out of the same stuff. Condensaiton is not a problem and I have to agree that the light weight (approx 4 lbs.) and small bulk are real attractive. The tent construction is bomber and Intrgarl Designs seems like a great company. I got mine from Jim Nelson at Pro Mountain Sports. Check out the various models. They are still expensive but a better value than the Bibler IMHO.

Keith: I sent you a pm, too.

I have a precip parka. It is pretty breathable, has good ventilation (pit zips and core vents) and it is really light. Packs very small, too. My only complaints (and they are pretty minor) are that the cut is a little baggy around the waist (even for a fatty like me) and the hood is kind of snug for wearing over a helmet. I have used it a couple of seasons for bicycle commuting and alpine climbing and find that the coating is plenty durable as is the outside fabric. All in all, I like it. You might want to compare it to the lightweight Lowe competitor (priced about the same, I think).

I have a Mk 1 XL. I got the light floor and have some concerns about its durability on anything but snow and moss but no holes yet. I've pitched it on rocky ground and such and it does seem to be tougher than it first appears. As for the external screen, you can get it with the screen inside; that's how I got mine and it's fine. The construction is first rate. It is cut very accurately and sets up very tightly but it is not difficult to set up. I have used it in all seasons and have had no condensation problems. Mine has two vents (one on either side at the peak) and they vent quite well. They seal well in bad conditions too. With the XL, you get a little more length for cramming junk at the foot. The MK 1 regular is apparently too short for anyone over 5'7" or so. I am very satisfied with the tent and recommend it highly. I just couldn't see paying the price of a Bibler.

Thanks, Sloth. I'll let you and Lambone work out your thing by yourselves; I ain't gonna get in the middle of that one!

Here's another vote for the Bean Guide Pants. They were out of the bean catalog for a while but are back in now. I got mine last year and used them in the early spring in very wet conditions and found them great. I generally leave my bibs at home now. The fit is good and the pants have a built-in web belt that keeps them in place. Good pants at a good price.

Thanks, Lammy. If you can post details, I'd appreciate it.

It's been years since I had an avalanche course (too many to admit) and the last one I took was not in the Pacific Northwest. I've been meaning to take a course here for a couple of years. I think this winter I will. Anyone have any recommendations for good courses this winter? Any advice is appreciated. Thanks.

Thanks for the reminder, Jon. I just made my call to Senator Murray. The person who answered the phone took my name and city of residence. It took all of 10 seconds. Call now if you don't have time to write. Her office phone is (202) 224-2621.

I'm definitely intrigued but my brain hurts enough from just being at work. I think I'll stick to reading the posts for the ropeup carpooling.

Another vote for the Mini-Works.