Jedi

I will be taking my point & shoot Yashica T4 Super so I will not be able to push the film. There is Sensia II 100, 200 & 400. Velvia 50, Provia 100 & 400, Provia 100 & 400 & Fujichrome ASTIA Superia (not sure what speeds this comes in) and that is just Fuji. I only trust Fuji & Kodiak. There are just too many options. Yeah we will not have a tripod on route so it has to be a pretty forgiving speed. Jedi

We are going to be in a pretty shaded area. Many of the "on route" pictures I have seen of the route look like they are climbing in early morning or late evening. Pretty much in the shade and not in direct sun. What have you guys had good results with?? Probably many cloudy and/or foggy days.I will be shooting slide film. Probably 2 rolls of a slower speed and 2 rolls for direct sunlight (in case we end up climbing elsewhere). Suggestions?

I never tried tieing off to each piece. I have used the clove hitch and the solo aid. THe solo aid definitly works better than the clove hitch. Once, while using the clove hitch, I thought I had paid out enough rope to free 3 or 4 moves. I was wrong. The clove hitch was too tight to free up any more rope and i had come up short on rope at a mantle. The 1st free move was off a talon hook. I was not comfortable reversing the other free moves back to the Talon. I struggled for a while until I peeled. The clove did hold that fall nicely. I was a long one because the beak & a RURP under the talon ripped. Jedi

Hope to poke around on Huntington (weather & conditions permitting). If we have spare time, 11,300. Jedi

My climbing partner bought the Firstlight tent for our trip to AK in April. not expecting much rain. Looking forward to trying it out. he says it packs pretty small. He says being able to see through he fabric makes him a little nervous. We will only be climbing when the weather is perfect anyway so no worries:) I'll let you guys know how we liked it if we get on route. Jedi

Can yo imagine a sock like this? Boots (leather and plastic) maybe could be smaller. Jedi

The girl I talked to mentioned the piece that holds the plunger in when you draw the plunger out. It had some small "L" shaped brackets that held it in place. They broke on occasion so they beefed them up. There were a couple other things she mentioned but I forget now. I just called MSR and talked to someone in customer service. Sorry I didn't remember more details. Just thought I would mention it in case someone had a big trip to South America or something and maybe wanted a little more piece of mind.

Sorry if this has already been posted. MSR has made a few mods to their 04 pumps. According to MSR, the new pumps will look like the old ones. They have reconized that their pump design had some weak points and have essentially made those conponets more duable. If you want a newer pump, they sell for $29.95. Jedi

Is there a website that shows where the movie will be shown? Man, the odds are not in my favor living near VA Beach.

Just thought I would mention as someone did above. I had a red (my favorite) Alien freeze up badly while in the Ruth while climbing Peak 11,300. It was warm during the day and it had gotten pretty cold (12am). snow probably melted on it during the day and then froze in the unit later. I was using it for free climbing. I like the Met's for free climbing and tend to use the Aliens for aid. As far as the ratings are concerned. I would guess (with looking at any other data) that it is because you are comparing 3 lobe units to 4 lobe units? I dunno. I have been looking at my rack for my upcoming trip to AK. Planning on taking my set of Met's and then a couple small Aliens for the aid (TCU size). Hope my luck is a little better this time. Jedi Jedi

Are you talking about the Quickstep Adjustable? Or the Foot Pro or the Foot Tape or the Foot Cord? Or is there one called the One Step? Jedi

Nice work Joe!! Thanks

Welllll, Joe's stellar topo was the key to figuring it out. I don't know what the rest of the contestants used for their answers. I like this game. Please post another! Jedi

I am going to take a wild guess but I bet that is the 1st pitch in the Spiral. The 5.9 dihedral. Do I win the prize??

If not, I wonder why? Jedi

Has Mark been on the board lately? I had an old email but I am not sure if it is any good. Yeah, I was hoping he would give me the scoop. I have the NA Classics CD but there was no helpful pictures or info on the part I needed. I heard the hardcover edition of Mountain of my Fear had a topo of the upper 3/4's of the route.

Anyone have any info or a topo of the Harvard route? What I am really interested in is the rock band above the Nose. Any info would be appreciated. Jedi

Iamjacktors I would to hear a little about the picture you posted. Jedi

20 hrs, eh. Guessing from 10:30pm to 2:30am when it is fully dark. We will be on the western side of the mountain. Full moon will be April 5th and a new moon (no moonlight) is Apr 19th. Not is our favor . Good point about the batteries not lasting in the cold. Jedi

Planning on flying into the Ruth April 19th or so. Hopfully start climbing around the 21st. Will headlamps be needed for climbing at night? Roughly how many hours will they be needed? Jedi

Yeah, what the hell is he thinking? Snowmobile- geeze. He shold actually fly to the southern tip of South America to make his trip valid. Actually, when I go rock climbing, I "aid" all the way to the parking lot of Seneca. Call me a sissy, walking 235 miles was cutting into to my climbing time. Also made for a later evening getting home, usually missed dinner .

quote: Originally posted by sisu suomi: I worked for MSR many years ago so I am familar with their products Whisperlite: yes, frequent cleaning is necessary because of the "quiet" burner head. Sisu Too bad you can not put an XGK burner head on the WhisperLight. The Whisperlight's jetting is more fickle than the XGK's which make it less efficient with elevation changes. But I like the compactness of the Whisperlight. I own an XKG but not a Whisperlight since the XKG is what you want when you are on a more serious route. I know the flexible hose is not as good a design as the piping on the XGK but it would be nice to be able to put it in the pot. Jedi

You gotta let it heal. I am bad about trying to get back to my favorite activities too soon after an injury. Just no patients. I broke both bones in my left arm when I was 12. They healed in 3 weeks (stuff heals faster when you are young). Broke my left hand once, some ribs in the 5th grade and shortened my left arm half an inch 2 years ago. That took 9 weeks before I got the external fixator off. With the crushed cartilage in my wrist, it was 10 months before it was fully operational. I climbed 5.3 with one hand on top rope. it felt good to just be out and about. I broke a toe this year and still went to Alaska with the bone in 2 pieces. Custom liners kept the pressure off that toe and front pointing was not a problem. Just listen to your body, don't rush it, and work around the arm. Listen to your doctor. Hope you heal up like new. Jedi

Tim, how did your trip go? What's the latest up there Dru? Jedi

I like to add Starkist Albacore out of the "tear open no drain package" to most any flavor. Miso is not to my liking.....blaaaak Jedi