Jedi

Iamjacktors I would to hear a little about the picture you posted. Jedi

OR gloves. Black, size large, leather palm, stretch material on the back of hand, fixed liner midweight polypro. The glove has no name. It was a "prototype" for the military (as it says on the label inside the glove). The fingers are too long for me. New condition. $18 email for pictures. OR Mutant mitt. Black, size med, excellent condition (never used).$30. Email for pictures Black Diamond Supergaitors. Sized to fit my Scarpa Inverno size 9 1/2. Never used. $35 Email for pictures. Buyer responsable for shipping cost. Time to clean out the closet and scratch up a little cash for my trip to the Ruth Gorge this spring. My climbing partner has a Bibler I tent that is new that he needs to sell. Let me know if anyone is looking for one. John

20 hrs, eh. Guessing from 10:30pm to 2:30am when it is fully dark. We will be on the western side of the mountain. Full moon will be April 5th and a new moon (no moonlight) is Apr 19th. Not is our favor . Good point about the batteries not lasting in the cold. Jedi

Planning on flying into the Ruth April 19th or so. Hopfully start climbing around the 21st. Will headlamps be needed for climbing at night? Roughly how many hours will they be needed? Jedi

Yeah, what the hell is he thinking? Snowmobile- geeze. He shold actually fly to the southern tip of South America to make his trip valid. Actually, when I go rock climbing, I "aid" all the way to the parking lot of Seneca. Call me a sissy, walking 235 miles was cutting into to my climbing time. Also made for a later evening getting home, usually missed dinner .

quote: Originally posted by sisu suomi: I worked for MSR many years ago so I am familar with their products Whisperlite: yes, frequent cleaning is necessary because of the "quiet" burner head. Sisu Too bad you can not put an XGK burner head on the WhisperLight. The Whisperlight's jetting is more fickle than the XGK's which make it less efficient with elevation changes. But I like the compactness of the Whisperlight. I own an XKG but not a Whisperlight since the XKG is what you want when you are on a more serious route. I know the flexible hose is not as good a design as the piping on the XGK but it would be nice to be able to put it in the pot. Jedi

You gotta let it heal. I am bad about trying to get back to my favorite activities too soon after an injury. Just no patients. I broke both bones in my left arm when I was 12. They healed in 3 weeks (stuff heals faster when you are young). Broke my left hand once, some ribs in the 5th grade and shortened my left arm half an inch 2 years ago. That took 9 weeks before I got the external fixator off. With the crushed cartilage in my wrist, it was 10 months before it was fully operational. I climbed 5.3 with one hand on top rope. it felt good to just be out and about. I broke a toe this year and still went to Alaska with the bone in 2 pieces. Custom liners kept the pressure off that toe and front pointing was not a problem. Just listen to your body, don't rush it, and work around the arm. Listen to your doctor. Hope you heal up like new. Jedi

Tim, how did your trip go? What's the latest up there Dru? Jedi

I like to add Starkist Albacore out of the "tear open no drain package" to most any flavor. Miso is not to my liking.....blaaaak Jedi

I saw the pair on Ebay. The are a small and I need a large. Thanks for the heads up. Jedi

I have lost my gaitors I need another pair in large. Any of you guys have a buddy selling a used pair (in good shape) or know of a shop having a sale? Jedi

I like the AAJ that I get every year. 400 pages of routes done in counties all over the world. Sometimes, great stories on some of the routes put up. Not full of advertisements like the climbing mag's. I wish I had every journal. Accidents in North America. Another wealth of knowledge. Learn from others mistakes. The insurance, hey I hope I never need it and forget I have it. I don't really care about that. If my membership helps give the AAC a voice in anything that will benefit the climbing community, even just something small, right on. I did go to a meeting a couple years ago and hear many great climbers tell their tales of adventure, sorrow and triumph. It was worth every penny. Just sitting around watch cool slide shows talking with the likes of Tom Frost, Joe Terravecchia, Conrad Anker, etc... Living on the east coast, I am going to bump into this guys often. This board is great and I enjoy reading what you guys write. Good source of info but the AAC is another resource for climbing inside and outside of the Northwest. Jedi

Jared, So you just went back to using the larger classic style of goggles?? Trask, what is the "Birchmark". Do you have a pair? Jedi

Have any of you guys ever tried these and if so, what did you think of them. I have a big pair of Oakley goggles but they usually stay in my pack. They are there for "just in case" the shit hits the fan while booting up a peak. I am looking for a smaller and lighter pair of quality goggles that perform just about as well as regular goggles. The Viperz look like the ticket, any input or suggestions?? Jedi

Matt, So ice is in along the Banff Jasper highway? Any recommended routes off the top of your head?? Matt, you should post the other good shot from that same trip. The North Face is stunning is both shots. I hope we have that kind of weather. I heard there was 1 summit in June and 2 in July. They had a meter of snow last week (in one dump), I think. TG, We hope to be standing at Berg Lake the afternoon of Sept 10th. We have to fly out the 16th, so unfortunately, it looks like we will miss meeting you. Dag, we could give you the heads up on conditions if we did see you. Let me know if you go any earlier. Jedi

Thanks fella's. Good info indeed. I have climbed the North Face of Athabasca and descended the AA Col but it was in March so there was mosty snow in the col. There was a little rock above the col but it was all frozen and low angle. I am unsure if I have ever climbed anything like the rock section on Robson. But you guys have convinced me that it will be loose and I should go ready to rope up and place gear. Thanks for info on KB's as the most useful pins. I'll be sure to have some on hand with a few other pieces. The only recent climbing with a pack & crampons I have done was in the Ruth Gorge this past May. The rock was mostly frozen in place and pretty good in quality. I did climb Mt Temple in the Sierra's. I was surprised how much loose rock was on those "highly recommended" routes but that was with climbing shoes. Sounds like I should expect the unexpected and less reliable rock. Thanks guys! Jedi

Climbmachine; I am not concerned about the difficulty of this section as far as being "too difficult". In wanting to climb the mountain in the best and fastest (fast being a relative term) style possible, I was interested in other peoples 1st hand experiences. It is the only place rock gear might be used. I hope so climb the upper 2600' as light as possible as not to work my wimpy calves any more than needed. I was hoping someone was going to say that it is mostly a steep scramble and maybe a couple stoppers would suffice. Man, how was the Emperor Face? A stunning face in the pictures I have seen. Yeah, I am not use to 3rd or 5th class approaches here on the East Coast so I am still not sure what they are. I guess it is different difficulties of scrambling which I do not see warranting a rope or gear (must easier than YDS 5.0 or it would be rated so). Is that about right Matt? If there is 5.6, I am guessing it is a 5.6 move or two move while scrambling. I kinda pictured hiking up the rock behind the Emmons glaicer ranger hut to the Inter Glaier (which was easy). I guess I'll try to call a ranger to get a little info. I read in Climbing issue 172 where the author (in 1979) and hoofed Mist Glacier but with the constant changing conditions of glaciers, I did not know if this was possible and a good option. I never thought about trying that Haireball but with us making a short trip up, We are hoping too limit the number of days on route. Thanks for you input though. Did you guys enjoy the route?? Jedi [ 08-12-2002, 05:07 AM: Message edited by: Jedi ]

Is there anyone here that has attempted The North Face of Robson? I am curious about the rock section above Berg Lake, left of Mist Glacier. I have only read brief descriptions like: "Crumbly buttress of typical Canadian Rockies limestone & shale that require care". In another article about the climb: "5.4 to 5.6 climbing." And "expect 3rd to 5th class". What is 3rd to 5th class like? Thanks for any insight or info on this route. Jedi

Soloing on glaciers definitely ups the stakes. This year in Alaska, I fell in chest deep with feet dangling. I was looking at a small hole we made when we found a hidden crevasse on the way up Mt Dickie. The leader (190 lbs) had already jumped the hole. I was about to step/jump over the hole when I made a new hole myself. The crevasse was much bigger than we thought. He already had the rope tight and just dragged my little 145lb ass out (downhill). Just never know. On another trip, we had a 4 man rope team. I was the 3rd and lightest. After the 200lb guy crossed, I went next and took the whole bridge with me. Would not have survived without a rope. Best of luck to you and let us know how it works out. Jedi

Lowered a couple prices. Jedi

Arrggg I just bought a new pair of 41's last month for full price. Jedi

Yeah, let's do it. Jedi

When the bugs get bad, I find that screaming, running in circles, waving arms frantically helps keep the bug bites down. Crying and begging once you tire doesn't work too well. Sobbing makes the bugs laugh before they bite. Bribeing the bugs works as they can't hold the money and fly. Quarters work best for those big ass skeeters in the PNW. If things get bad, some gas and a match keeps them at bay until you come to a smolder. Then the proceed to nibble again. Bastsard! Jedi

2 easy routes at Seneca WV in the pouring rain. Never climbed in full on rain and I have to say I did not mind. Soaking wet, water running down arm, rain in eyes every time I looked up, wrinkled fingers, etc... Friction was better than I thought it would be. I hope the sun is out next time. I would like to get on something harder than 5.4 Jedi

My Mom climbed Rainier and gave birth to me on the summit. I started with the North Face Everest at age 2, K2 2 months later, and the rest of the 8000 meter peaks by the time I was 5. I soon found ice climbing fun and put up a M10, WI8 as my 1st lead. It was called Jedi Leads. Then I saw a picture of someone climbing in a place called Baffin. Hell, at age 10, I had nothing better to do so I soloed a bunch of routes there. I called them Jedi Leads Again, And Again. I soon tired and did some top roping on a 5.4 called Mud Gulley. The name fit the route. Really though, I climbed a boulder in central Viginia, in jeans, wearing leather dress shoes, and a button down shirt. Just a rock on the bank of a river. Taught myself top roping from a European climbing book from the library. Girlfriend belayed. Went to Seneca with a guy who had some gear. I asked "what is this?" He said "a nut and it goes in a crack". I asked "what is this?" He said it is a cam, it goes in a crack too". I through on my 20lb pack full of all kinds of crap I did not need. Pulled on my Five Ten Summits and lead Banana 5.6. The guy cleaned it and told me I would have died if I had fallen. But I got better. Rainier was my 1st mountain and did not see a cloud the 5 days I was there. Top roped ice the 1st weekend trip to New England. My second trip yeilded many nice routes. Most on my 1st routes on rock & ice, I was very cautious while learning because I was teaching myself (no one to ask if I was doing it right). These routes were short, easy and not memoriable. The 2nd outting usually was more exciting. The sharp end is where my memories are. Jedi