Mtnclimber

Hey Brandon, You need to drive down to Smith soon. I'll drive up your way closer to summer. Aaron

I live in Bend and would happy to meet you at Smith.

I am new to Bend Oregon from bellingham Wa. I am available on Sunday to climb at Smith. Have to work on Monday

Just moved to Bend Oregon yesterday from B-ham Wa--Been spoiled for years with awsome climbing partners. Excited to check out Smith and the better weather. I also Mtn. Bike and interested in exploring new trails. Aaron

Need partner for Squamish this weekend. I am game for multipitch or single. Will consider other climbing areas as well. I have full rack and rope. Email me at amisiuk@hotmail.com. I look forward to hearing from you.

I really enjoy living in Bellingham. Its a nice central location for lots of climbing areas without the stress and traffic of Seattle or Vancouver B.C. If you like enjoy Mt. biking and skiing you can not go wrong. The Mt. biking in Bham is great there are more than 3-4 biking shops with people who actually know what they are talking about. When it comes to climbing the scene in Bham is a bit more limited. The employees at REI know nothing about climbing. I asked for a #3 camalot and the guy gave me a puzzles look and handed me 3 #2 Camalots. The Y is ok for a workout but every time I go there and work the routes I hurt the next day in a bad way. For some reason my fingers and large toes feel tweaked. The other delema with the Y has limited hours. I have gone to the Y to climb only to find I had to wait on a list before I could climb or they canceled the certified climb time to accomidate a birthday party of 10 yeear olds. I have been playing around with the idea of starting a climbing shop and gym in Bellingham. My main reservation is revolves around if there is a large enough critical mass of climbers to make it work? My calculations reveal I would need at least 200 members paying 40-50 dollars a month to fund a fun medium sized gym to make a profit. A small bouldering gym and climbing shop is another option but lacks enough steady revenue to be profitable enough to attract investors or a SBA loan. Any comments are welcome.

My two favorite North Cascade solos have been the north face of Shukson in late July and NE ridge of mt. Triumph. The approach to the north face of Shukson can be a pain if you go up the drainage. Best approach is directly down from chair eight acrossed the shallow river and then trend east and directly to to the top of the approach ridge. Once at the top of the ridge take it until you reach the base of north face. The best descent is either down the north face which can have rock fall or around the pyramid down hell's highway and then fisher chineys. On second thought north face of Shukson may not be the best solo unless you are famular with the mountain. Lots of places to get in trouble.

Looks like my option is to go solo something.

Looking for climbing partner for Saturday. Want to climb at exit 32,38, or Index. Have full rack and transportation. I live in Bellingham but stuck in Seattle and Squamish is too long of a drive for a day of climbing. I am a strong 5.9 leader and can follow much harder.

I did the NF of Buckner 3 years ago. We approached from Sahale then traveresed the scree slopes next to Boston Pk. and then onto the Boston glacier where we camped. We then climbed the NF of Buckner with a full pack. The climbing is very easy though you may want to bring a few screws and a picket just in case. I used one picket in a running belay below a steep mushy sliding section and then belayed the second and third climbers up. From the top decend the other side which is low angle and up a pass (forgot the name) back to cascade pass. Took us two days but could be done easily in one long day without the weight. Boston peak is a pile of %$#^*@ definatly not worth climbing and then down climbing in my book. If you like mid 5th choss then go for it. I will climb choss only if I must as part of a larger target.

There are so many better climbing goals than climbing Mt. Baker in August. With this being a very low snow pack many crevasses will be large and open. There should also be plenty of ice on many routes in Washington which will make them more fun, but for that type of experience I would climb the North face of Shuckson, Matier, Wedge Mountain, Elderado, etc… These mountains would be a lot more fun that time of year. The Alpine in the Canadian Rockies are usually in their best condition in late summer. Go explore something more interesting than the Washington volcanoes. The Northwest are loaded with many fun moderates.

I am just getting to the point where I can start leading harder slab routes. Cruel shoes is a route that I am looking at but the 5.9 scary/poor pro has me feeling a bit apprehensious. Is that pitch continous 5.9 climbing or are there a few 5.9 moves intersperced with easy climbing. Cruel shoes is also an older route put up in the early 80s- have the bolts been replaced? My goal this summer is to climb the Grand wall from Apron strings. Cruel shoes is what concerns me. Looks like a good route though.

Nice to see that the new routes have more realistic ratings. Did not see it on Climb-on but will check out the book next time I am in Vancouver. Working on any new routes Dru?

Those are in the book. This one appears to be new. Thanks for the info

hmmmmm. There is only one new route at seal cove that is not in the book. It would be hard to call this route 10a beacuse it is sustained for approx 25 feet and is generously bolted for a 10a. It would be a Yosemite 10a but is much harder than the 10b next to it. I would say that it is much like local boys do good p1 but slightly more sustained in the beginning. I found it fun and enjoyed the surprise of thinking I was on a 5.9 (did not rap with guide book and mistook it for the 5.9 3rd from the left but second in the book.) We gave it a 10c rating because I don't work that hard on 10a/b and it made me think a little. (only a thin seem for the feet and no large crystals- lots of smearing on steep slab.) It could be since it was the first climb of the day I over rated it. Thanks

The route second over from the left at Seal cove is not in he guide book. I found the route to be alot of fun. In my impression was the best at that area. Does anyone know the name and rating for this route. I put it at 10c because it was only slightly harder than the 10bs next to it. Though all the routes in this area are a bit over rated but still worth a lazy afternoon away from the crouds. I would rate Sole mate at 5.9 not 10b.

Mt. Robson took 4 attempts and still trying. I have made as high as 50% of the way up the North face. On that attempt we were hit by heavey rain. After a painful downclimb the weather broke and was clear again. We could have made it if we pushed through the bad weather. I will hit the top eventually. When it comes to weather it is better safe than sorry.

Frenchman's coulee is probably my least favorite place to climb. I think that I am just spoiled by Squamish granite. What do you like about Frenchman's?

I am looking to go climbing this weekend some where. I was thinking about climbing at Skaha because it is a shorter drive than Smith. Forcast is for Chance of rain with the temps in the low 40s. Is it worth the drive? Thanks,

I am desprite to climb. With the bad weather in the northwest it seems like rock climbing is out other than taking a flight to escape the rain. Is it worth driving up to the Canadian Rockies to do some ice climbing or are conditions getting to warm? Thanks for the info.

I am looking for advise from all you 5.11+ trad climbers out there. What is the perfect rack set up for 5.10+ crack routes. As I become more confident at climbing 5.10 trad routes my new problem is what to keep on my rack,what to leave behind and how to rack the gear ie. on my harness or on a sling.( I hate when the perfect piece for the crack gets it's beiner jammed. I have 31 Cams ranging from 00 alians to #5 Camalot with many doubles throughout key sizes and 3 sets of nuts and a set of lowe tricams. How draws do you carry? If I was to carry all of this I would be laughed at. My main question is how do I stay organized so the piece of gear that I need when I am 10feet+ above my last piece is easily accessable. What is your favorite Cam size and what brand of nuts do you use. My favorite Cam is the green alien and .75 camalot I use WildCountry nuts. Thanks

I have most weekdays available until the end of August. I typically climb at squamish and lead in the 5.10ab range on trad. Give me a call at 425 387-2676.

Taking some time off this summer to get back in shape and do some Alpine climbs and moderate Rock climbing .10 range. Goal is to climb Mt. Robson Nface later this Summer If you live in the Bham area or like to drive up to Sqaumish or Southwest BC drop me a line @ amisiuk@hotmail.com

Looking for a partner to climb Mt. Robson North face or simular grade 4-5 routes in the Canadian Rockies. Mainly interested in climbing long snow and ice routes but open to suggestions.

Climbed Mt. Athelstan on monday via the moonraker route. Found the route to be much easier than expected. Never found the 5.6 pitches at the base. We soloed all but the last two pitches, the rest of the route consisted of lots of 3rd and 4th class with a little low 5th. Most of the rock was the typical alpine loose stuff. The guide states that the route takes 7-10 hours from the bivy site to climb when in reality takes 5-6 from the car (If that). While the route was less than spectactular the area was great offering great views. If you are into alpine climbing this area is worth visiting. Are the other two routes better and is climbing more consistant? Any beta- How long do the routes really take to climb? I would like to make another visit to this area except the decent glacier is quickly turning into a ice climb with rock fall hazard and openning Seracs. Does anyone have any recommendation for other routes in this area with more consistant difficulties and better rock?