Mtnclimber

Has anyone done any of the routes on this peak. Looks like a really nice 18p moderate. Any Beta on conditions and decent info would be great. Also is it worth the drive?

One of the many problems I have with the mountaineers is that for every ten of them only one is worth climbing with. I also have found them to be very slow in responding to problems. For instance a couple years ago on Mt. Baker a mountaineer walked into a cravas. The mountaineers had two rope teams and two additional groups willing to help. First off the guy had too much slack in the rope and fell in approx 15 feet. To rescue him they set up a Z pully system incorrectly and placed nothing at the lip, so the rope severly cut into the snow when they attempted to pull him out. When my party arrived this poor guy had been in the cravass for 20 min with very little clothing and was very chilled. We set up a block and tackle and with so many people helping had him out within 3-4minutes. The othe bad experience I had with mountaineers was while soloing the Beckey route on Liberty bell. Two teams of mountaineers were moving very slowly and refused to let me pass. I passed anyway and was shouted at that I was going to die. In actuality I was safer tan they were. Their ancor set up at the belays were very poor and the leader had little experience setting pro and half the pieces were set improperly. It seems like a novice climber who had poor skills and knowledge was in charge of teaching other beginners. In the end I had to through them a rope and belay the leader up on a 5.4 route. I recieved no thank you or even an apology for being yelled at. They even had be inspect their repell line. All this on an easy 5.4 route. In essence I became their instructor. What kind of group fosters this kind of incompetence?(THe Mountaineers.) Sorry to flame here its just I have had so many run ins with the mountaineers over the years and have seen them make easy and safe climbs epics and dangerous.

They are correct there is still alot of snow at lower elevations currently though improving. I went in to do the route recently and found the snow conditions a little sloppy. Don't bother with the bike for a few weeks because the road is covered with snow shortly after the gate. Skis are a good idea though. Good luck. I live just of few miles from this hike and almost climb it weekly during the summer its my Mt. Si boring but good arobic training.

Looking for alpine rock/ice climbing partner from 8/28-9/4. Interested in climbing grade IV, V in the cascades, southern BC or possible Canadian Rockies if weather looks good. Longer routes preferred. Send private message if interested.

I found the the rock on the south face of Mt. Viennese to be very poor and at the 5.9-5.10 range made the route very runout and thought provoking. We were lucky that nobody was injuried from falling rock or breaking holds.

Check out MClane's SW BC alpine select guidebook. It appears many of the climbs in the Chahalis group and many others have easier approachs than I thought and derserve a second look. This book offers good approach information and the route information lays out and good outline of the climbs but good route fiding skills look like a must.

In recent years I have been doing the Trade routes on Mt. Rainear in a day because its easier and less boring. The way to do it is 15lb pack (including boots), tennis shoes up to the Ingram flats, good weather and an early start. My best time a few years ago was 5hr 30min from car to summit. I have found most people in reasonable good shape can do the DC route in around 7hrs. The only problems is running acrossed RMI beacause of rock fall and because they won't let you pass. This is the way many of the larger peaks in the Rockies and elswhere are done to minimize your exposure to objective dangers: its actually good training.

The Canadian Rockies should be in shape sooner this year(July/Aug). Would anyone be interested in North/ Kain face of Mt. Robson or any other grade IV climbs in the Rockies.

Anyone interested in an alpine climb this weekend or climbing at squamish. I'm currently leading in the 10 range and hope to improve. Please Email me if interested. I have friday through next tuesday off work.

I've got this Friday through Tuesday off and I'm looking for someone to go climbing...Smith Rock, Squamish, North Cascades, or ??? Reply if interested!

Mt. Index Looks like a good climb but the rock tends to be loose and dirty. I climbed the north peak a few years ago and while the views and ambience were great the rock quality and route finding was less than desirable. Its worth the climb and offeres great training for long routes on low quality rock. The rock quality is nothing like the townwalls and appears to be metamorphic rather than granite.

I tried to climb Mt Triumph in late march two years ago. We wanted to do the NE ridge but tried the south face? instead because of heavy snow in the approach gully and on the ridge plus real avalnache danger. We made it up about 25% of the south face and turned back because of too much unconsolidated snow and wet rock with no pro. Once on top getting down could be a problem. If you do make it to the top let us know how it was. This year may be better.

Since I don't know your experience level this question may be difficult to answer. I have done Liberty Ridge twice. The first time we encountered perfect conditions and whole trip took 2 days and was a joy. The second, we encountered poor weather after thumb rock and bullet proof ice; which dramatically slowed or progress and the trip took 4 days with much epic potential. Don't take this route or others like it too lightly. Be prepared for bad conditions and bring extra fuel(=water), shovel (=bivy), etc... To answer your question. It took us one full day to reach thumb rock from white river without too much difficulty (pack weight=45lbs). The Carbon can be problematic esspecially on low snow years. If you need to do running belays pickets work best but don't forget ice scews and plenty of webbing/cord for V threads. If you don't have a lot of experience try another route like north face of Shuckson or a less comitting route. Remember many people have underestimated this route and died.

New to Bellingham, WA area and looking for climbers in the area or in WA, OR, and B.C. I am into alpine and trad routes in North Cascades and Canadian Rockies. I am experienced and have all gear.