EV

Try Cloudveil's Snaz jacket for your outer shell.

The guy who slept on top of Everest was Babu Sherpa, and he is history, died in the crevasse fall. As far as Tenzing Norgay's supposed death, I checked the Kathmandu Post, as well as a few other resources and nothing is mentioned about that. It either just happened (like within hours) or it's bullshit.

Metolius has come out with an adjustable daisy chain. Of course, there is the standard daisy chain (DC)with the loops in it. FOR AID CLIMBING, does anyone have any advice on which way to go? Any info would be much appreciated. TIA

Holly: Petzl.com has great technical info. Sometimes I'll do an internet search for, say, girth hitch and get some incredible info that way.

Twight's Kiss or Kill is fabulous. A bunch of short stories. I wish it never would have ended.

Does anyone know - or guide me to - how much of a fall a double fisherman's know will withstand? Just curious is all.

Kevin Colburn is the name of the person who died on Guye Peak. I guess he was a school board member down there. I got the news from tacomanews.com [This message has been edited by EV (edited 10-17-2001).]

You'll probably get a lot of differing responses on this one. I bought one, and found it a pain in the ass to remove from one's harness. It seemed like it was always getting caught. Once you started placing them, them seemed okay - and fast. I ended up selling the one I bought and just kept using the BD express screws.

I'm getting ready to buy a pair of aiders. Can anyone give me suggestions between the BDs, Metolius and Misty aiders? Also, do you usually use the three aider method or four? Thanks.

Horsetail Falls, WI4 and The Ribbon, WI4 are good routes. They are both outside the Ice Park. Lots of TR'g in the park, everything from WI2 to WI6, also some M5? stuff, as well. Go and enjoy.

North Ridge of Stuart.

Kyle: If the liners go, do you know if you can replace them?

I have sort of the same question. I was looking for some clothing of theirs, and nobody sells it. Any ideas, anyone?

I did it a few weeks before Steven. Yes as to crampons. There is a BIG patch of ice that you can go either high or low. I think high is better. But the glacier is no problem.

From this month's Climbing mag: "This is bullshit, blurts Jim Donini, perhaps touched by a little "anemomania" - wind madness. "This sport sucks. In my next life I'm playing baseball. Those sons-of-bitches get paid millions of dollars for playing a kid's game. I bet my ass every time I get on one of these granite tombstones and I don't get paid a goddamned dime. Fuck this."

Can anyone tell me the approximate ETA from the valley to Fresno (the airport specifically). I've never been there and I'm trying to figure out flight schedules. TIA

As of Sunday, none.

Pen: Try Jim Nelson. He sells some Mammut pants that are bomber. I've worn them climbing ice and have done Stuart in them. Great investment.

How do you do the smiles thing? I've yet to figure it out.

Black Diamond has come out with three new headlamps. One is called, I believe, the Space Shot, or something like that. It has an LED bulb, but also a halogen bulb. The LED is used as a backup. Has anyone had any experience with this one?

Mattp: I checked out your topo - again, nice job. I'll have that with me in the next week or two when we try Dreamer again.

I know I'll probably take some shit for this one, but on short approaches, climbs like Outer Space, etc., my climbing partner and I take our own racks and use our own gear on our leads. That way, if I use a #2 and #3 and something else for an anchor, I'm not using the pieces he needs for the next pitch. As long as you don't mind carrying the extra weight, it works fine. We only carry one rope, though. And he usually carries it.

Lambone: Thanks for the great beta. Bagging the north ridge is quite an accomplishment. One of the 50 Classic Climbs of NA. Congratulations.

Lambone: Sorry for the error. My eyesight isn't what it used to be. They say that's the second thing to go and they're right. One more question: Did you use rock shoes or regular boots? Thanks.

IAMBONE: When did you start and when did you finish, car-to-car? Also, did you do the entire north ridge, or did you skip the lower pitches? Finally, how many "pitches" were there, and how much would you say was done as running belays? TIA