Billy

Devil's Kitchen Headwall with the fixed rappels.

You have a daisy chain when sport climbing and in the mountains you have your prusiks on in the parking lot. Also, don't forget to tie in your ice axe to your harness and keep everything clipped to the outside of your pack, that way, people will know you are a climber.

Actually...I think Scott-whatever his terrorix is, should post his spew on crag.com

Last May I did Middle and South in a day with skiis. It was a load of fun. I went to the saddle between Middle and North, climbed the N ridge of the Middle and then skied off the SE ridge of Middle. It was really good. Then I went across the Prouty glacier, up the Prouty headwall and then skied down the standard route on South. I went in from Pole Creek and exited to the Cascade Lakes HWY. This trip took 10 hours trailhead to trailhead. One obvious way to do it(the marathon) would be to enter via Pole Creek, go to the saddle between North and Middle, climb North first and then Middle and then to South. I think this would be the quickest way to tag all three in a day. Although some folks would say that its not a traverse doing it this way, just a marathon. Do it in spring as skiing makes the whole thing a lot of fun. If you wait till summer, it'll be an endless screefest. You can get pretty close to Pole Creek trailhead by early to mid April. [ 03-31-2002: Message edited by: Billy ]

Thanks snow leopard. I'm just wondering, if I do end up rappelling DKH, should I t-slot the pickets or just pound them in stake style?

If I were to climb Devil's Kitchen Headwall, how many pickets should I bring for the required rappells?

Craig-It's a great route. Basicly it consists of steep to vertical crevasse walls that link lower angle sections of the glacier. You can pick a line and make it as difficult as you like. Aug/Sept is the time to do it, but depending whether or not we get autumn snows, it can last late into the fall. The toughest part as the season progresses is just getting on to the route, as the lower Coe is getting more and more broken up. The key is getting on it after most of the summer snow melts away, but before the lower Coe gets too broken up. Also, a low freezing level is mandatory. Maybe, as our glaciers are receeding, the time to get on it is earlier than traditonally thought, but you'd have to climb it in the wee hours as it gets the sun in the morning. The approach from Cloud Cap takes about 4 hours and my thought is to approach via the west morraine of the Eliot and scoot below Languille Crags and go over. It is possible to skip the Lower Coe and drop in through a notch near the base of the steep part, but late in the season it can be 60 deg scree. But to be safe, stay even with the base of the Languille crags and contour over. A rack of 6-8 screws and maybe a picket should be sufficient. Usually, when the route is in shape the upper part of Sunshine isn't very good, because its typically late in the season. But I have heard of people climbing the Coe and then continuing up the Sunshine to the summit when conditions are just right. If not,its an easy descent down the snowdome. Have fun! [ 03-10-2002: Message edited by: Billy ]

Old carpets? What the hell are you dumb asses talking about? I'm sure they have new carpet somewhere in B'ham....

I triumphed over the South Side of Hood years ago, and I'd have to say the chute was about as steep as a blue run at Timberline.

B-rock- Yup, we acessed from Mt Bach Nordic Center.

Me and RP attempted the the N Butt of Broken Top last friday, during the steller weather we've been having lately. We climbed approximately 500 ft of 45 to 50 deg snow and alpine ice(perfect cork) to the crux pitch that links the top of the gulley to the upper face. The crux was thin and we couldn't get much of an anchor in. So we down climbed and moved a couple gullies to the west. We climbed a nice ice pitch (WI 3, but short)and got onto the upper N. face by climbing a snow gully and then a long section (1200ft?) of 45 to 50 deg snow and summited.The final moves to the summit were steep, loose snow. High Noon looks good now though, we just need some more freeze thawing action.

Yo Will- Peace Brutha!

So I guess we all know now that Will has onsighted the Reid Headwall, and can lead 5.11, A3+ sandstone. What will he wow us underlings with now, a free ass-ent of the SE Corner of Beacon Rock? [ 01-18-2002: Message edited by: Billy ]

And Will, please don't slander me too hard. All I said was: wow- you onsighted the route, you are so bad. It was the others who claimed you couldn't apply the term "onsight". Check it Holmes....

No one can really lead 5.11, A3+ sandstone.....well maybe Big Willy can...

Me and my buddy attempted the North Buttress of Broken Top on tues. The upper ice pitch wasn't in very well, so we downclimbed and did the NW Ridge. Some variable snow conditions, unconsolidated fluff at worst and good alpine ice at the best. A couple of buddies did the Direct Crater Wall (High Noon)on wed. They also found some softness, but succeeded none the less. I think we need some freeze thaw. Its just been really cold up high for a while now and no meltage, so no freezage.

No one can really lead sandstone 5.11, A3+.......

The first pitch of Moonlight has some 5.9 On the second 10a pitch, you can aid it on tcu's that are really solid. Above that you need 3 to 4 sets of TCU's and 4 or 5, 1 1/2 friends. Not to much big stuff. Its totally doable in one day, the descent of the back is real easy. Eventually it becomes paved. One last thing the very last pitch has some very real 5.7. Remember, it is Zion you know.

I'm looking for any info on ice conditions around Golden or Field. Anyone know if its happening yet? Thanks!

Great aid route. It takes mostly small and medium stoppers. Some RP's and cams up to finger size would also be helpful. The final pitch up to the top is way cool, with runout exposed, easy free climbing.

looking for Grivel G-12 Crampomatic Crampons or Charlet Moser Black Ice Rapid fix Crampons used for a good deal. I'm willing to trade a pair of Grivel 2f's with anti balling plates also. Please email directly @ jbpk99@hotmail.com

Tried the Coe Glacier on Wed 9-19. The lower part of the glacier was so broken up that we couldn't get on the ice fall itself. We found some great ice climbing in the crevasses instead.

Is it to late to consider the Coleman Headwall? Has been anyone been up in the region lately? Is the Glacier pretty broken up?

Don't forget about payroll taxes and workmens comp and paying the government to use the lands. It is amazing how it can all add up. To guide legally these companies have to jump through alot of hoops and it costs. If you are guiding independently the costs are much lower, but you have no insurance back up if the students get hurt on a trip. One claim by a student could have your wages garnered for years to come.

I'd have to agree that it is distinctly possible for one person to pull another out of a crevasse. In fact, I've done it.