Billy

Great aid route. It takes mostly small and medium stoppers. Some RP's and cams up to finger size would also be helpful. The final pitch up to the top is way cool, with runout exposed, easy free climbing.

Tried the Coe Glacier on Wed 9-19. The lower part of the glacier was so broken up that we couldn't get on the ice fall itself. We found some great ice climbing in the crevasses instead.

Is it to late to consider the Coleman Headwall? Has been anyone been up in the region lately? Is the Glacier pretty broken up?

Don't forget about payroll taxes and workmens comp and paying the government to use the lands. It is amazing how it can all add up. To guide legally these companies have to jump through alot of hoops and it costs. If you are guiding independently the costs are much lower, but you have no insurance back up if the students get hurt on a trip. One claim by a student could have your wages garnered for years to come.

I'd have to agree that it is distinctly possible for one person to pull another out of a crevasse. In fact, I've done it.

"Move slowly behind me and plunge your shaft into my axehole"

The Eliot headwall is best done in winter or spring. I think it would be pretty jingus right now. Sunshine may be OK, but the freezing level is pretty high. Its pretty straight forward if snow conditions are firm.

Sorry Office Space- The moment you said that you could lead 5.9 at Little Si, so you thought you'd be ready for Stuart, you pretty much invited the dogs in on you. Its kind of like saying that you can lead 5.9 at the gym, so now you're ready for the Steck Salathe.

Just use one daisy. Then, you'll never be falling on a lower daisy, you'll have the rope clipped through.

mneagle- great report! What are the best seasons to climb in Bolivia?

Kalun D- Did you need boots/ice axe/ or crampons to get down the Glacier? Was that a big deal or no problem? Also- were you able to get water from snow patches all along the way? Thanks!

Kalun D- Sounds like you did well! So, where were the bivies? Did you make it in to the base and then climb all the way to the notch in one long day? Then do the upper ridge and descent and the hike out in a second long day? If so.. you are man!

Kalun D- Which approach strategy did you use? In from the south? And how long was the whole trip?

Great route. Bring a set of nuts and a set of friends to #3. You may be on some snow on the approach, but then again you may be able to avoid it.

Synthetic bags rule on multi day alpine routes where you can't hang out and dry your down bag. In the colder ranges, where you are drying most of your wet socks, gloves and inners out in the bag, the sythetic bags are clearly better. Especially when you have to pack your bag wet and then take it out and sleep in it that night. For multi day routes in the cascades where the weather is good, a down bag is fantastic for the weight. And if the weather gets bad on the last day or 2 you'll be fine. Synthetic compresibility is a bummer though and there is no way around it. Down rules in that department!

Scott- Did you camp below the route? Or bivy on the route?

wow- you onsighted the route, you are so bad.

T- The Prouty Headwall on South Sister is in excellent shape for skiing right now, and so are the west aspects of Middle Sister. The SE Ridge on Middle has some good shots as well.

I would definately take a guided instructional course. Its worth all the money you'll pay. Reading a book and going out to try it only will get you so far.

this sava-whatever-his-name-is is a loony toon. No Crowds on Libery Ridge? C'MON DUDE, WISE UP

Pole Creek trailhead is now driveable. About 2 weeks ago, the trail was snow covered about a mile or so up it.

Zenolith- What routes did you have a look at? Could you see the gully routes and/or Elliot Headwall?

Has anyone been up to or seen the North Side of Hood lately?

I can't say that I'd recommend Leutholds for a first timer. You really have to be able to french technique. On the South Side you are just in big footsteps, so you really aren't having to bend your ankles etc.

Does anyone have any beta for the SW ridge of Peak 11,300 in the Ruth Gorge?