Jens

I like three people for the sport crag. More time for me to rest my weak arms between redpoint attempts. With two, I don't force myself to take the rest I need to clip the chains.

If you are an ice climber and had superpowers that let you fly, I bet "Mickey's gully" and "Hey mikey he likes it" are both HUGE route now. I skiied Crystal yesterday and Saturday and couldn't help but wish I was on the summit of Rainier as I looked over at it while sipping my glass of wine from the comfort of the lodge on top of REX.

No I didn't bring a camera. We're having a great ice season in Washington this year!

Isn't Grivel North America essentially Dr.Doom? Or are their other people working for him?

See ya all at 8pm!

Ironically I believe they sell gingerbread at the lake jolanda crossing- If that is your chosen approach to the falls. Perhaps I can convince the gingerbread man to ride on my nose next trip.

I just got back a little bit ago from an outing up the I-90 corridor. Wrecked semis all over the road. It was 22F when I left. I tried to solo CYA (M4,WI4)but got scared and backed off. It was thin but definitely leadable. So I just played on the lower sections of the wall. Coming out, I-90 was closed so I pulled off to the shoulder of the westbound lanes and did some climbing at a sweet bouldering/TR area. It is a little alcove right off the freeway 75 yards east of the westbound exit 38 off ramp (you've all seen it). It is about 20 yards east of the overhanging Richard Cilley crack. It would be a great teaching/ ice bouldering area. I knew the state troopers wouldn't hassle me as the highway was closed and they were all down tending all the semi accidents.

Post deleted by Jens

Thanks. I was wondering about that bridge.

Kings is big and cool and kinda trendy but not "dress up" trendy. A little bit pioneer squarish but not to bad. Lots a guys wearing retro trucker hats and puma jackets. I had something come up but I still think I have a 50% chance of making it.

I had one friend try a day trip to Strobach. The roads were icy and he had to drive slow. His drive time was 4 hours. He and his partner ran into lots of deep snow on the approach to the climbs. The approach on snowshoes was 4 hours. His total time from Seattle to swinging tools was 8 hours. I know a dude that made it from Seattle to roadside Banff ice in 9 hours from Seattle.

Thanks ade for the valuable info. I had two buddies in their this weekend also.

It is not the weight I have an issue with. On a hard alpine route or approach, you have to be able to pound water when it shows up. More than you would care to carry. You can't do the 30 minute wait time. Or stop for a break a few minutes later. You also ideally pound water and then don't carry any.

I'd be game for Tuesday night. I haven't seen most of you posers since the fall roundup kegger. We'll have a fingertip pullup contest on the door jam at the bar and loser picks up the tab. My vote is 8pm. There is a new bar called Kings? on Ballard Ave that is pretty cool. It is just a dash north of second ascent on the same side of the road. I've only been in it twice. That place we went to called Kangaroo and Kiwi on Aurora seemed to have a decent turnout because it was convinient for a lot of folks that were driving from around the city.

Wow, I had no idea what the numbers meant.

"I remember one of the first Kramar guides giving low quality ratings to some of my favorite pitches while showering numerous 5.10 slab climbs with 3 or 4 stars, routes that didn't seem special or unique. I remember being irritated by this but later learned to enjoy the fact that routes with few or no stars never seemed to get traffic, and if I happened to like such climbs, I could count on not having to wait for traffic to clear. If you know of a stellar pitch that isn't given glowing reviews in a guide book, consider keeping it private. Develop your own list of "obscure classics" and enjoy the solitude. Amen to that. And I agree wholeheartedly

I'll take that bet. If they win you can pick either: Carry and stash my alpine (lift skis) at Liberty Cap for me or Spend 7 hours scrubbing my next project with a wire brush while I sit at the base and drink a margarita.

Thanks Mike for the valuable post. I am trying to sort this out right now and I don't know much about it.

Only since you are soliciting comments..... just to help you out...uh, no offense but editing or deleting the above post will give you a lot more credibility.

Does stretching forearms in between redpoint attempts do anything? Or is it counterproductive? When I was a 5.13 whippersnapper 12 years ago, I'd stretch for like an hour a day while watching Jerry Springer and other nonsense on TV.

Slightly off topic, but about 15-20? years ago I saw a short feature on TV that had a twosome climbing ice in Leavenworth. I would love to be able to see it again. The focus was "ice climbing in Leavenworth" It isn't the segment that aired with Jim Nelson climbing ice in Leavenworth. This one is much older. Anyone know anything about it? The ice was hugely fat and wide and I don't think it was hubba hubba. Anyone?

I am a complete weight freak but rucsacs are the only single item I don't pay much attention to how it much they weigh. Hands down, probably the best ruscacs made are the Millet line of packs. I've owned two in my lifetime and for technical alpine, they leave every other company churning in their wake. Nothing comes close. Plus they are desinged by some of the best climbers in the world. Black diamond sacs have to long a torso and inhibit high steps, danas don't climb well, mountainsmith and gregory have to many straps, I could go on..... --------- If you've been passed on an alpine route, they were wearing a Millet.

His speech last night didn't really propose anything we haven't tried already except more troops. Man- this guy has no clue.

Kevbone, Inifinite Bliss on Garfield was done without bolts originally. And from what i've heard, the bolts are gonna get removed. (not by me). I have no desire to ever climb that route.

A biologist told me that peregrines are everywhere now and the population is booming. Perhaps we should readdress some of the closures due to the number of pergrines being threatened. Midnight Rock in Leavenworth comes to mind. With the closure, you only have about a 6 week season for the crag to send anything hard. July, August, and Sept. are to hot. We only rock climb on about .001% of the steep clifs in the state of Washington.