
Paul_detrick
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Everything posted by Paul_detrick
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For Iceclimbing I have a set of Bigfins from BD, they quit making them a couple years back, BD needs to bring these back, no problem cliping them with gloves on. Paul
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see post under ice conditions golden. Paul
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I would be happy to try and help you out,(copy out of my book)or tell you the info. I know. Paul p.s. send a P.M.
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Just got back monday,had a great time, hard not too why kool, Lady Killer in, big and fat,a must do, Pretty Nuts in,good shape, Waterworks in, good shape,Essondale in, left and right. Drove over to Field, Pilsner Piller was not down, nor Carlsberg Column, upper pitches were formed, Silk Tassel was not in, Masseys was in but looked not as good as years past, look like there was not much snow near Field, so that could explain routes poor shape. Overall temps. hung around 18f. If you plan on going Marys motel in Golden is the place to stay, kitchenet units avilable, nice rooms. Paul
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Why ice climbing is now and will always be a risky affair...
Paul_detrick replied to dan_e's topic in Climber's Board
standing at the bottom and saying this looks easy-not ripping gator with crampon being weak and worthless(allways) Paul -
It was nice and warm there to day, if the ice won't form than i'll climb in the sun. Paul
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Chris you have the wrong climb, the professer is the frist climb you come to after coulee city, in the book its marked wrong, where were you climbing right past the millon dollar mile, those are differnt climbs. just thought you might like to know. Paul
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the cpt's right , there is no ice. Paul
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O.K. here go's, I help teach the mountain steers, climbing course in Wenatchee, there are some good people with them. Our classes are small, about 6 to 10 people, we have had the same problems in the icecicle as i've heard here,it's not the steers, it's all you 206'ers, theres just too many of you. So I think you should all stop Fucking til eastern Washington catches up. We held our carvase rescue at Rainer, and they told us to leave,but they come over here and act like they own the place. I don't know if we will have a class or not this year, but if they do I will help out, I just like to teach people something I love to do. We just don't have all the bullshit. Paul
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The twist were ok til you had to set a peice of pro, you eiter had to try and untwistwith the tool in, or take a gamble it would not fall off, if you let it hang, there not bad,for your set arm, but than you need some other kind of leash, for your other arm, I use the simmon's trac up hand slides in and out easy, and locks down easy. Paul
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It's raining and warm, check out the climbs onthe 28th and did some small smears, but not much is formed, if you come over today(2nd) you will be wasteing your time. Forcast calls for highs in the 30's and low 40's, but its your gas. Paul
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kathy I think your talking about a differnt kind of wand. Paul
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Sorry but Alex, was a BD guy, met him at a demo, him and Steve House,they both had corbas, but that was before rage,Alex told me he used Simons Prirana,before he became sponsored. Paul
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My two cents worth, seek out the mountainsteers,they should be getting ready to start a new corse, they teach all forms of mountianeering, and your son will be abe to hook up with other people. Paul
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Checked on the ice on saturday, not much there, most climbs are coming in but there just smeres with big open spots. It has not been that cold here, during the day its getting up to high 30's, you could tr some stuff , and work on your dry tooling,but we need more cold before the climbs form well. Paul
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Dan the man, you don't happen to be in O.S.A.T. do you,I can relate, done all those things myshelf,but I don't do dumb things no more, now I just climb,but like my bros say you don't have to be smart to ice climb, in fact its a hinderence. Paul
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I'm sorry I can't help it, Ive been to rehab three times, I just can't quit. And I can take a f#%$ you every now and then, but seeds are part of my gear, its like no chalk, gotta have it. I will try to keep them off the route, but don't stand below. Paul
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As of 12-1 no ice and warm, was looking good at the start of the week, with lots of snow, and temps. in low 30's, but warm up and snow is melting fast, will reply when things change. Paul
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Easy Dave, Ididn't say I was bashing my knuckles,I was letting other people know some tricks of the trade, which I was shown. I don't get cold hands, thats why i'll spend the money. As far as technique,that comes with climbing,and its harder to learn with frozen hands, you won't know your knuckles are hitting the ice til the next day. Big gloves are easy to work with time, I don't take my hands out to set pro, I've learn to do that with them on. Try and get over size biners, I have a bunch of big fins from BD, rope goes right in,my comments were more for people just starting out,just trying to pass it on. keep climping don't slip. Paul
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I was asking the same qustions back in may, stayed at Worldmark in San Jose, 15mi, north of San Lucas.I live to climb, but theres way to many other things to do, I never got out. Like others have said go fishing, some of the best in the world, I caught a 175lb marlin, and lots of tuna, its a once in a lifetime trip, all the resorsts we saw, and worldmarks was frist class. Get your money changed here, don't use dollars down there or you will get ripped off. Don't use the taxis, rent a car,VWS cheap, or ride the bus, easy to do. I know your gonna have a great time so enjoy. Paul
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I say spend money, i've tried all the methods allready mentioned and still had cold hands, at least iceclimbing.I got a pair of BD iceage gloves and they are the bomb,I agree no liner messes with you too much,knuckle pads are a must, if you do use dachsteins cut a small piece of insulite pad to cover your knuckles. Paul
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R.E.I. cyclops bivi sack, great condition, has head net.$75.00.e-mail or call (509)7540937. Paul
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Smee read iceclimbing post Paul
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Is Freak travis?