Paul_detrick

Did outerspace today,left the parking lot at 500am and started climbing a730 just beat a party that slept by the creek. Sun was shining on the wall until we started to climb, clouds move in and the race was on. I have not done that route in a couple of years and could not belive all the gear stuck on the top two pitches, I hear people bitch about bolts, what about that crap, you want to pull something out here you go. Just beat the rain, it started pissing on us but did not come down hard til we were on top, fun desent down the gully on wet rock. Hike out in the rain and headed to gustozs (ps) , all in all a good day.

Just got done doing a cervase training workshop, and used both setups, and the tiblocs work fine, this was at a firestation so we were able to climb up high enought for a good test. The tibloc slides great up the rope for a fast ascent, when you unload them they become free from the rope and could even slide them back down, which I thought was kool, nothing to open or f@#k with just easy working. I would like to try them on a icyie rope to see how they perform.

Went down to Vantage today with my son to do some bonding and want to thank everone for staying home, it was a great day, climbed at the sunshine wall which I try to stay away from, but with nobody there it was kool. Do you think you can do it next Sunday too. Thanks

I agree no bolted cracks, faces are another story. But I would like to see bolts put in where needed. It seems you have climbs that are way over bolted or routes that you deck out half way up. There has to be a happy middle. Bolts are not going away, but lets use them only wind needed. I have seen some routes latley that have had bolts added, that were not needed,if your not going to deck out(one pitch routes)than don't add any. Climbers must get the word out, no one will do it for us. This is a good start now send this topic to all the climbers you know.

Thanks iain for answering that for me it was right on, I think this is a good topic, and good replys, theres more than one way to do just about everything, just be safe.

O.K I can take it, It was not that bad, I've seen worst. Outside of the bible tumpping, story was good. Spirtual stuff was right on not religous. O.K. flame on.

Don't run the rope thru the chest harness, just carry it by your side, what if you are the middle person? you could end up side down. I perfer 1 or 2 coils for walking ajustment.

Is this a troll?

I use that system when i'm climbing more than one pitch, but use one long runner cliped to both anchors than clip the x. But if you don't want to leave any booty, you have to re tie your knots on anchors, and its not that hard to tie two water knots the same size.

You guys are missing the point, its not the best way, it's easy to have one piece of webbing for one bolt, equalize the anchors, do what you will but I will allways change it.

I know this was on here not so long ago, but the last couple times I've been out I've come across them, people please don't use them. On one they used two peices of webbing, so I untied them and put them one from each achor, whats up?

Steam you got to cut some slack,we was all there once.

I think you were too far left, was there 7 bolts? The bolts are not that old, but at least several years.

NAY

O.K. I agree you should take off the ring and watch, but once you tell someone, you have done your part, its up to them if they want to listen or not, you need to let go of it, people have a choice it's there's to make right or wrong. I tell them what I see them doing unsafe and thats it, it's in there court. I don't think I'm allways right there's more than one way to do things.

It seems to me most of these storys have to do with people new to climbing, I allways check my partners to make sure there doubled back and have the rope correct, double that with the new people or people I have not climbed with before. It takes two people to climb safe. And I don't care about the boneheads who think they know what there doing, I'd just as soon have them get pissed then be involded in a rescue. for what its worth

Nice replys, but you can't use intelligent and climber in tne same sentence, oxy moron. My point (if there is one)was that if some cams are lighter so you take more, you are not saving any weight.

Brain cells, sometime in the 70's small dead could be on drugs. Im sorry I could not resist.

Here I go again, your point on taking lighter weight cams instead of the camalots, if you take 6 cams that work,(lots of range)verse 10 cams that maybe 6 will work (small range)works out to be the same. Buy camalots once you set a few cams you will know these babys are bomber,and the weight will make you stonger.

The last piece of ass you guys got, was when your finger broke through your paper.

Thanks, but I should have been more clear, rockclimbing pants.

I been thinking about getting some climbing pants, I have been wearing sweats for ten years now, and want to go yuppy. So what works? I love sweats but the ass wears out too fast. I don't want to spend yuppy prices tho, I'm just trailer trash.

If you got a few bucks buy the permit, all those concert goers have to have one. Or give it to the acess fund.

You should read his book its great, funny.

What good is taking out bolts if you don't do it right. Pudding time was choped last year, they could not get out the top bolts so they just smashed them down. How is this better for the rock? I like the job the person did on red m+ms, clean you should not bolt cracks, nobody should disaree with that. The rap station on Ingils is kool, it helps speed up all those steers, you make them do there achors there and you might as well go home, its a custer as it is. It's a fun climb, but my granma could lead it, the crack takes anything. Ok I fill better.