Alasdair

Top 3 routes... All alpine 1. Project unclimbed ridge #1 2. Project unclimbed ridge #2 3. Project traverse

Hey Col. I broke one of the biggest holds off of Zebra seam about 2 years ago. It is considerably harder now. Let me know when you get close to getting up it and I will head down and break some more off. Good luck that thing is pretty hard.

With all this avatar talk, I decided to change mine to send a wonderfull message of hope to all.

yea, good point.

And this from a guy who hacks websites on his PDA from a table a the Latona..... Get a life, Al! btw, anything going on this weekend big guy? Avalanches are going on this weekend. So I will be spending most of the weekend recovering from hangovers. Want to join me.

Unlike most climbs at vantage the route did not have removable holds. It was a really fun pillar climb that had some face face moves mixed in with lots of "slapper" holds on the sides.

My name is muslimhacker. Mr. Dru completely right. Many of you are prejudice against my people. You think we not smart. But I only 12 years old, and I hack computers from internet cafe in Algeria. You must be the one who hacked adamsons site. I knew those muslin extreemists would get us all eventually. Huh maybe the US should start a war to stop you guys from hacking meaningless web sites.

I am not sure that area would be the best place to hang out this weekend after 24 inches of new snow on top of a nice solid snow layer. Not to mention not being able to find the ice because it is burried under all the new.

I climbed that thing a couple of years ago. I acctually thought it was one of the best climbs at Vantage. I only got on it once however. It was really fucking scary.

A question for some of you Hood regulars... What do you think the conditions on the North side of hood may look like this weekend? Avi, snow, etc. Climbable?

weekend you dont sound like a racist, but trasks comment makes him look like more of an ignorant fuck than I seen on this board in a long time.

Smokey stays the same, they are just going to change his image to apeal to the younger generation by having him drive snowmobiles, ATVs, and the occasional logging truck.

I like it better than the old one.

I was up there last night. There was not a lot of light due to the proximity to the new moon, but from what I saw the north face was very white. It is quite likely that the snow on the face is hard and icy due to the rain and subsequent freeze in the area. THe approach is a highway. Leave your snowshoes and skis at home, unless it gets warm again. Like it appears to be doing today.

I am heading up there after work tonight. I will have beta tomorrow. If there is enough light I will take a pic.

Name this peak... And how many people are burried at the bottom of this face.

Wayne and I got from the road to the base of the route by following the creek from the road in less than two hours. Follow the right side of the creek and stay a couple of hundred feet away from the creek. It is as easy and approach as you will find in the Cascades in winter.

I have a question about smoking in the Muir hut. What will a ranger do if they catch you? Several months ago I was in the N. Cascades and ran in to a ranger there. He told us about some party walking down the trail that he just gave a ticket for smoking. Keep in mind, this ticket from a NPS ranger means a day infont of the federal majistrate on drug crimes.

I think it is Howe sound brewery.

Your list seems backwards to me. Dont you think the people who do the most climbing would have fewer posts? Most of the crap posts on this site dont have much to do with climbing at all, and the people who start them appear to have nothing more than a vague interest in the outdoors.

Try doing a search for goode there are at least two topics on Goode conditions. One which I updated with conditions as of last weekend.

We just got off last night. Which way are you planning on doing it? This makes a big diffence. I would recomend the boat right now. We walked in from Rainy Pass, here is the beta I have for that route. Crossing the river is cold, but otherwise ok. If you can do this in the AM there will be a lot less water and it will be easier. I dont recomend the log crossing, as I think it is probably the same log that is described in the Select climbs book. It is rotton and if it broke it would be very serious as it is just above a waterfall. If you want to avoid slide alder print this and take it with you. The aproach up the slope is not too bad. Follow the left drainage until you get to the cliff band follow the cliffband to the far right until you come to the right most drainage. Follow this drainage up the cliff band on the left of the waterfall. Once above the waterfall follow the open slabs until you come to more alder. Look for a small dry drainage (about 200ft to the left of the main drainage) that has less brush than the surrounding area. Go up this drainage for about 200 yds. Now you have open slopes to the base of the Glacier. Access to the butress over the Goode Glacier is strait forward. Go to the left of the buttress about a quarte mile and get on to the glacier at the only place it looks easy. Take glacier to ridge. The glacier does not allow you to climb all the way up to the easy ledges that take you to the crest so get on the ridge whereever possible and climb the loose rock to where you would get on the ridge if the glacier were not broken. This looks hard but it is not, and it is much easier than trying to go strait up. It is solid where it needs to be and well protected. Everything else is totally strait forward. Look for the ledge to get down on your left about 2 pitches from the summit. If you are planning on going over storm King Col, I would recomend not. The glacier is steep, broken and a fall would be very serious. If you are comfortable on steep glaciers then ignore what I just said. There is also a lot of objective hazards from falling rock on this glacier as it is littered in basketball size blocks. One more thing, dont do any of your hiking in the dark. There are tons of bear in there. we saw two on the way out. There are bear tracks all over the trail. I hope I did not ruin any of the sence of adventure for you.

While hanging off of a route several bolts from the top at Smith a couple of years ago I hear "Dude! are you done with that route yet? I want to on-site it" After I clawed my way to the anchors and got down, I got to witness the guy fall off the route at about 3 bolts up. He let out the most amazingly loud "FUCK! fuck fuck fuck" Me and my partner (and most of the other around) promptly laughed our heads off which only pissed the guy off more. Now I often use the term on site for when I fuck something up.

Skip the crowds, leave the car early pack light and do the Exum in a day. That way you can be back in time for 5:00 beers the day of the climb.

Does anyone have any info on Mt. Cruser? I mostly need to know how long it will take to do the approach. Are there any trip reports out there that I just cant find.