Alasdair

I need a partner also. Damn it. Lets get something done.

Has anyone written a letter to the sheriff? Write a letter explaing the issue and detail the risks involved and how someone could get killed. Be sure and cc who ever the Sheriffs boss is on the letter and you might just get some reaction. Endangering peoples lifes is a crime and should be dealt with as such.

Sounds great! We have been waiting for this all year.

Just an FYI those are not PAX's photos. The last one there is mine. Its not that I care, but just a mention that others might. You should probably note that when you post other peoples photos.

Who really gives a shit who won the Grammys. The KEXP top 100 list is a much more relevant list of music that anything on Billboards top most promoted crap we want to sell to the masses. The record industry deserves to loose the money they have the last few year.

Yes you will need snowshoes anywhere you are this weekend, but I really do think conditions are going to set up quite nice in the next couple of weeks. Things look good, and I think all those people bitching about shitty weather should get off their asses and go climb something in the next couple of weeks. Oh and we are going to see some real nice cold weather next week which will make shit really nice.

Probably. Chances are the best conditions are going to be comming up next weekend once it starts getting cold again. The current weather as forcast looks like exactly what climbers want to set up great conditions. I would bet the TCs will be good and N. Face of colonial is going to look good next week also. Just a guess, but If you are looking to get out in the mountains these next two weekends might be the best available, with second weekend being the prime.

Well they lost too.

Im not sure its cold enough. I would expect rock covered in a whole shit load of snow, but I might be wrong. What we really need is a nice warm rain and a solid freeze and then it might be pretty good. Let us know what it looks like.

I know Im not your dad, but can you say wind loaded?

Just an FYI: Check the avi forcast before you jump off the couch this weekend. FRIDAY- Generally light winds with occasional light snow showers early Friday should lead to a further decreasing danger early Friday. Increasing winds becoming very strong late Friday and Friday night and increasing rain or snow at warming temperatures late Friday should lead to an increasing danger. Mostly unstable snow should develop overnight Friday. The strong winds should easily transport recent and new snow and build large unstable wind slab layers by early Saturday.

Considering it has not stopped raining in Seattle in the last 24 hours I would guess it is snowy.

Yea 25 years ago the beginning of skyrocketing national debt and totally irresponsible spending began. Time to celabrate.

Hey Barry, I also am from Michigan, the state not the college and my advice would be to get the hell out of that state. If you own a house, sell it now. If you are worried about finding a job, dont worry there are way more out here than there are in the dying auto capital of the world. Michigan after a couple of the states in the south east is quite simply the worst possible place for a climber to live. There is NO climbing within at least 8 hours so you cant even do a weekend trip from there. Michigan could have been a great state with natural beauty, but it sold it off for the Internal combustion engine. As far as a guide service goes I would just recomend you go with one that guides in the North Cascades. It looks like you have the right idea going with an instructional class rather than a summit climb. Definatly avoid one of those 3 day summit a mountain things, because you wont learn nearly as much.

No seriously though if you are in Portland then you dont care where this place is. It is probably best just forgotten. I will admit is was fun for a few laps but thats about it.

Issaquah

Oh and in addition, has anyone take a crowbar to the big block on the route on the left? The one that has the crack with the bomber tool hooks. If not then it might just be a good idea before that thing blows and ruins a dry tool night.

No I did not replace it. That crack should not have a pin in it at all. Any pin placed in that crack will rust out in a very short period of time due to constant moisture

Dru is a loser

Just because the weather is good does not mean the snows good. Even if this weather cycle ended today, I would not feel comfortable on any of the trade routes in the enchantments for a couple more weeks. Or a few days of very warm weather followed by a freeze. If it stays cold like it is forcast to then snow conditions wont change much and the peeps will all get washed down the TCs and N face of dragontail while the wee peeps are getting flushed out of the NBC on colchuck. It might be worth setting up camp making some tea and watching the fireworks from the lake though.

Went up the the dry tool area in Issaquah today. It was pretty fun, and we did not get rained on. Also, I removed the fixed pin on the left route. It was getting a bit manky.

the guidebook say 5ºC to 8ºC. i suspect that difference is true when "normal" winter weather is in effect, and considerably less when the big warm fronts overwhelm the whole area. right now [6pm Friday], Lillooet shows 2ºC, Cache Ck 5ºC, and Clinton (which i usually reckon is closer to Marble Canyon conditions because of altitude and interior position) is 0ºC. not exactly the best ice-making weather. and you can believe what oldgoat says... cheers, don Thanks don, God this sucks.

Dude? Updates? There is lots of snow. There is lots and lots of snow. What exactly do you want to know?

Nancy Ortenstone

So how much colder in general is it up at Marble canyon that in Lillooette?