ryland_moore

Correct. The GPS is not for you as a stand alone, it is for your rescuers. Much better than an MLU and is supposed to have really good accuracy. McMurdo has been in the business a long time and produces quality PLBs and ePirbs for the ocean. I am no expert in this arena, but did a lot of research before I pulled the trigger on the PLB. Plus, my wife feels a lot better when out on the big pond and in the mountains.

I actually purchased this unit when it came out last year. I like the features and esp. the size and price point and has GPS. Easy to register too. Battery life seems good but haven't had it that long and never had to activate it. I purchased it for fishing for tuna out of Newport, but you can take it anywhere. it is also waterproof and will take it on long backpacking and hunting trips as well. I think it is the best on the market in the price rage. Actrually I think it is the only one on the market in this price range.

I have a pair of Koflach Artic Expes with Forty Below K2 super light overboots in red and black. Used them on Denali amd worked like a charm. The overboots are fitted to the Koflachs. I wear a size 10 boot as well. PM me with an offer and we'll see if we can work something out. I am down in Portland.

Really sad news and my thoughts and prayers are with you, your family and friends. I hope they find the other two and hold out hope that they are working their way down and will end up coming out on Highway 26 or are in a snow cave right now. They seemed to have stellar conditions when they went out. Freak accidents can happen anytime and any place. Be safe out there fellow cc'ers.

Partner from Redmond bailed at the last minute due to weather forecast. Up for hitting the Gorge or Cape Horn area early morning. I have some gear but my twin ropes need to be retired. Will lead WI 3/4. Will tag along with a group, act as belay bitch, whatever. Call me at 9716451515. Live in North Portland and can drive.

Nice work guys! Need an ice climbing partner or a group who will allow a tag along. Just had my partner call from Redmond to say he wasn't going to chance coming over to climb with the weather forecast. This was after having another partner who is in Georgia and my other ice buddy tore his rotator cuff in cyclocross this Fall, so if anyone at this late hour wants to go hit up anything in the Gorge or Cape Horn, I'm game. Call me at9716451515. Ryland

My buddies were litterally threatened with arrest for riding up the chair at Meadows last season (both had season passes) and then skinning up to hit the WyEast route on Hood. The ski patroller said it was illegal to leave the ski boundary at any point even if you were not returning to the resort. They decided to bail and the patroller followed them all the way down to the parking lot and stated that he called the Sherriff on them if they did not leave the resort immediately.

Nice work!

Needs way more time............... Give it til Thursday and it will be perfect.

Wow! Interesting to see how much the crater has melted out since I was last down there in 1999. Good TR. I watched one of our fellow CC'ers snowboard down from the summit on that trip (CK) and showed why he would soon win the Khan Tengri race, as he started about 3 hours behind our group from the hut and passed us heading up the steeps before the summit like we were standing still.

Brings back great memories. The Great Arch was my first outdoor rock climb.

This was posted by a friend of mine who was close with them and a photographer out of Bend/Portland: [video:vimeo] Micah Dash and Johnny Copp segment of "The Sharp End" from Cedar Wright on Vimeo.

Never second-guess your choice. If you don't feel comfortable, don't do it. The mountain and route will be there next season. I typically don't do Leuthold's after May 1st if that gives you any indication.

Not sure about the road closure part, but the gate is the same type of gate at all FS roads closed due to snow.

It probably was not climbers who took the sleds. Plus, skis are different. Can't ride them down without ski boots that fit the bindings. I stick them in the snow wherever skinning ceases to be good.

Great TR! Glad you finally tagged CS! So, we were thinking about leaving Tilly Jane TH at midnight. Sounds like too late to make it up top early enough? Or how long did you hang out at the TJ cabin? Thanks, Ryland

I think it would be cool to put where recorded avalanches have occurred as a layer, if it is even possible - it would depend on the data available. I say post it anyway.

Anyone been up there recently? Thinking of heading up Sunday and climbing the Spur Monday morning. I am sure Tilly Jane is still the best access to Tie in Rock rather than Cloud Cap (road closure?) Also, anyone ever carried skis over for the descent on the S. Side? Finally, we are thinking about bivying at the car and doing the thing in one push with a shuttle car waiting at Timberline. Crazy or no? How much time? If I remember, from Cooper Spur to the TJ cabin is around 2 hrs. How far from the cabins to Tie in rock? I think it will be about 3-4 hrs. from Tie in to Summit. Any thoughts are appreciated.

I will back Alex up on this. This is not Primus. It is Unholy Baptism (albeit thin). We were the first ones to climb the first pitch in January 2007. The second pitch was throwing deathcicles down on us as we topped out the first pitch. I believe there was another go at it the next weekend, but the second pitch has still never been climbed. It is burly. Overhanging ice and steep with little to no rest. It also looks longer than it appears (both pitches).There is a tree off to the left of the first pitch which you can easily rappel from or walk off the ledge system and down.

I grew up climbing with Albert at New River Gorge. He, Mark (the author) and I all grew up in Roanoke, Virginia. This Article is inspirational to keep climbing and stay in shape. Reminds me of a guy in Portland, who, every year on his birthday, bikes from PDX to Timberline, climbs Hood, bikes back to PDX, jumps in a sea kayak and paddles to Astoria, then bikes down the coast to the beach to celebrate his birthday. More than anything it reminds us that we still got it even as we get older.....

I took my AT boots and a pair of plastics, but people on our team used the Dynafit TLT4s with Intuition Liners and were fine. My trip to climb Denali cost me around $1000 without gear. Most of this was flights/transportation. The climbing fee has gone up since then. Food and gas will be the rest. Get a shuttle from Anchorage to Talkeetna.........

We brought a technical saw like Bugs and a cheapo $5 hand saw with a plastic handles from the local discount hardware store. The cheapo performed ten times better on the Denali snow! Also great for building an igloo on a rest day at 14k. I prefer the 3 man tent. It allowed us to spread out. If you decide not to take 2 tents, I would pick up a Megamid. Best thing we brought on the trip. Plus it is a great way to make friends! We did all of our cooking and making water in the megamid and allowed us to get out of the tents. They anchor down well, just collapse them each night with snow blocks and set back up in the morning. Plus lighter than a second tent. I would also second the pressure cooker. They way a little bit more than a regular pot, but they increase cooking times drastically, saving you a ton in fuel weight over the course of 2 plus weeks. The otyher debate is skis vs. snowshoes. I still prefer skis, but we went earlier in mid May so the crevasses had not opened as much and we felt comfortable skiing down ski hill unroped. Ditched the skis at 11k. There should also be a link on here for food/meal plans. Look at the NOLS cookbook for ideas on calories etc. Finally, have fun and take your time. If you need a sled and don't want to use the ones they provide, it may be worth it to ship one up with aluminum stays. You can build one (like I did) for cheap. Having fixed stays instead of cord will reduce any frustration with the sled hitting you in the heels or passing you on downhills. Also remember to put a prussik on the back of your sled. If you go in a hole, you don't want the sled to hit you on the way down.

How can you compare the Professor to Crown Jewel? Nothing similar at all. Professor is multipitch steps and a classic route. Tons of traffic, yes, but very safe as the pitches are spread out. Crown Jewel is a POS WI 2-3 and while I won't look a gift horse in the mouth when it comes in so close to Portland, I also wouldn't get on it directly underneath someone like Ivan's photo shows. If someone is climbing the right while another party is on the left, fine. But to climb directly underneath another party in shitty ice conditions is stupid. Maybe you should quit spraying and get off your ass and actually climb somethig once. Ever posted a TR? Ever put up any pics? NO and no. Rookie.....

Ivan, I think you mean "How many dumbasses can you find" rather than "How many climbers can you find" in your picture. Lucky no one was hurt. I witnessed a similar thing several years ago on the same climb except someone broke their arm from falling ice from a climber above them. Maybe that is why I was climbing away from the zoos on ice with no one around!

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