Dru

and PAGE TOP MOFOS

so send Musashi with 8 inch heel spurs and Spectres duct taped to your hands if thats what floats your boat. But remember the important saying of DOA and Mark Twight, namely that Talk -Action = 0 and when you talk up something there is a corresponding expectation of action which can backfire on you later on. also remember anna's near accident and how it is possible that too much encouragement from the Net may have made her think she knew more than she did and contributed to the incident in question?

Yeah its in Bruce's anthology. She wrote it up for the Avalanche Echoes if I recall correctly I just thought you were making it sound like they were the first and all. I think Funk and Humphrey musta had balls of plutonium for that one. They were a couple of years and an era of gear ahead of their time. I heard from Don that on the 2nd ascent a BOOT AXE BELAY was actually used as the only possible belay technique on the crux pitch

quote: Originally posted by snoboy: There is a vibrator (yes that kind) brand that is popular with the local climbin chix, a Tsubo . So the Subaru has lots of wink-wink nudge-nudge here! OOOIIII! Im gona name my next new route Tsubo and it will be a chick magnet!

NEW CONTEST: Estimate the degree of camera tilt in Tim Matsuis photo. Or does that bush really grow horizontal like that?

quote: Originally posted by snoboy: quote:Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: BTW does anyone else think drydroooling on granite is difficult as fuck on slabs YUP! Did you know Tami Knight and Peter Croft did a winter ascent of Diedre on the Apron in Squamish? A lot of it involved climbing the 1" thick smear just out of reach of the crack. Yikes! The FA of the winter ascent of Diedre was by Humphrey and Funk in 1971, pre- droopped picks and pre-Choinard stuff. They had old skool long, positive-clearance ice axes and corkscrew style ice screws, maybe a Warthog or two?. Snoboy maybe you are thinking about the U Wall Drool which was done first by Croft and Knight? I know they did Diedre too but it was like the 3rd or 4th ice ascent....

4x4 does not help as much as many people think in snow. when you go to whistler, every vehicle in the ditch is an suv cause they all think that 4x4 got them covered. but you will spinout just as much with 4x4 as otherwise. best car for snow is an old 1970's wood panel station wagon with 6 bags of cement over the rear tires, chains, and some plywood sheets to stuff under the tires when you sink & spin. the legacy is a good car. i got a 90 too. it isnt that great for bc mountaineering cause it is a wimp at getting over crossditches. but it rocks for roadtrips compared to a truck. mileages is better than a truck but not as good as a honda accord. sleeps 1 person in the back if you lie diagonally. the new subarus like outback, i gotta say i think are too upmarket and not designed to actually go offroad. so buy something used.

AHA!!! See what happens when you go on a CLIMBING TRIP - you miss the spray here The moral is to spray more and climb less then you will always be in tune with whats got folks

Get a Honda Element when they come out in December! Chix and doods will dig you.

Well if you wanna lead all the pitches take up soloing so you have plenty of time to experience them all. Climbing FAST in a party of 3 is about efficiency not who gets which good pitch but who will do it fastest. Climbing SLOW in a party of 3 on the other hand, means the belayer is never totally completely bored (theres always someone to pack a bowl for ya) and when the leader starts making those whimpery noises as his beak stack shifts, there's 2 people to laugh at him. Slow 3 climbing = aid equivalent of climbing at the basde of Morning Glory Wall, a glamourous social experience.

You know I just read this whole thread looking for the "40 posts of spray" [sic] that got MattP so bee-up-his-butt riled up and I couldnt find them??? (See thread entitled "You Guys Suck" in Spray if you are new to this debate) I liked reading the TRs and thought Ray's was a good antidote to a thread that was veering into solemn chestbeating territory.

No but someone had tagged "PROJECTHEX" inside the crapper at Grasslands. That Sweet Granite In Renton thread was one of the best Underground Sprays ever and I am envious.

UNDERGROUND SPRAY Here is how to do it. Make a "trip Report" or apparently useful beta which is actually totally false*. Then sit back and wait for some sucker to believe your useful beta and get in trouble and then for the name calling to start For instance if you drove by Drury Falls and it was half frozen write a detailed trip report about the difficult mixed climbing you encountered and shiny fresh titanium rustproof bolts you placed as you climbed leashless to send the first mixed ascent of this testpiece. rename the climb. say there was a logjam and you could walk across the river. rate it m7+. say there are 6 other lines up there you saw that you plan to go back and rapbolt. illustrate your TR with some pictures you cut and paste from the Petzl website. then sit back & enjoy the 'serious climbers' getting upset by your beta. *You might want to use a fake avatar name to do this so people dont automatically know its you and figure out you are BS'ing...

And dont forget to practice humility and admit you are gaper when you are gaper. Instead of upgrading everything you climb like some people. I am still waiting to see a trip report entitled: Castle Rock: Saber (V 5.11c) and I expect sooner or later I will

Consensus at Timmys house was that being a mascot in TV ads is one of the worst jobs imaginable. Especially the dinosaur Super Mario pushes into the pool!

Get a haulbag for your pooch for multipitch or leave it at home. The best type of dog for alpine climbing is St Bernard with keg full of whiskey under its jowls.

Yes, the BoltHawk makes equipping routes a blast

All you dog people should check out this bizarre story of dedication to your dogs: http://www.aftenposten.no/english/local/article.jhtml?articleID=434084

quote: Originally posted by ScottP: The last little bit before the summit of McClellan Butte used to have some sort of hand railing or something. It's been a long time since I first did that peak, and it wasn't there on later ascents. The east route on Lundin has those huge memorial bolts that seem to me to be in the ferrata tradition. The Grand Wall at Squamish used to have a big ass fixed hawser that was done hand-over-hand up around the Sword pitch. The last bit up to the south summit of Three Fingers is rigged with ladders. The whirly cables up to the summit of Half Dome are definately in the ferrata tradition. I don't know of, or remember anything else that I have encountered in the Cascades, Rockies, or Sierras. I read here earlier in the summer that Golden Horn and other Cascade peaks have fixed aiders on syummit blocks to allow weak peak baggers to weasel out of having to do some 4th class moves with that?

quote: Originally posted by Dr Flash Amazing: quote:Originally posted by Chepe: just take a hit of acid and drytool Godzilla at Index free solo, you'll learn fast or splatter! HA HA HA HA!!!!!!!!!!! The Doctor read some article in one of the climbing mags years ago about some dudes who would drop acid and solo routes in the Black Canyon, and they had t-shirts that read "Blotter is My Spotter." Tom Cosgriff. Middendorf and Shipley also both advocated the hallucinogens and soloing method of preparing for altered states of suffering while mountaineering in remote places. [ 11-12-2002, 04:11 PM: Message edited by: Dru ]

quote: Originally posted by danielpatricksmith: quote: and if i die out there, just leave me be. i can't really think of a better place to be buried. No offense meant, but once you are put in an even marginally frightening situation, you'll change your tune. Summit or the death thoughts are great when you are sitting on your couch at home, but fox hole religion takes over when it all hits the fan. If you die out there, let me know where its gonna be so I can be first on the scene and score the newly-available used gear before anyone else does. Then in 5000 years your frozen corpse can be the focus of a new interactive museum just like Otzi!

and 8=D, of course.

Yay RURP!

rob thats why i said mostly.