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Everything posted by Dru
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that last one looks like stupendous or something off the bella coola highway.
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Its not the south buttress of Gimli...that is granite not gneiss for starters im almost drawing a blank on Jordan's #2 unless it is the east ridge of mcdonald S peak? And darin yours is black velvet canyon i think?
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It IS TOO Whitemantle!!! You cannot pull that shit on me. Oh wait I mean Stanton. Duh.
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So, you want to duke it out on the Ballard bridge too, eh? can you say massive wealth transfer from the poor to the rich? sure. i knew you could!!!
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a gi gi works the same as a reverso except you cannot belay the leader, only two seconds... i will sellyou mine, its only ever been used once!
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ya but it took me 10 seconds to get jordan's right so = not that he took it himself, apparently, he stole it from the BCMC web page!!!
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jordan that picture is too small to see but it could be whitemantle? here is another mystery photo name the route!
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Just ell them , you have climbed the peaks in Cliffhanger and Vertical Limit, and Into Thin Air. "Everest 96? Yeah, I was there..." tell them you were filming with Brashears. Theyl dig it and since they dont climb, will never question you.
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I saw this quote below on another bulletin board. i dont know if its true, or not.
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one alternative to both climbers seconding at once, is that climber B seconds fast and leaves the gear in, and climber 3 follows on a Ushba Basic on a fixed rope, and takes the gear out. We did this on a summer climb of Rock On, left the car at 9:00 PM and topped out at 11:30 PM i havent done it much in the alpine, and it isnt the greatest method for fullpitch traverses - or when the leader needs the gear back for the next lead. but if you take a rack and a half it works fine. one thing i have found about reversos for 2 or 3, is that you really have to be a few feet below the anchor for them to work in the autolock mode. so if your clip in to the anchor on an alpine route is to gear at waist level, and you cant get below it to pull on the ropes, youre gonna be screwed. also they are suck when the route is low angle.
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Yeah ditto cause they keep sending me free ones!!!!
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Lene Gammelgaard, as someone who self-describedly went to Everest to kick start her carreer as a motivational speaker, should be distrusted no matter WHAT she says.
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Jordan 1) wrong again!!! You should be able to tell from the shadows, that the view, wherever it is, is looking South so it cannot be "east to piebiter". Also Piebiter is not granite and everything in the photo is granite. 2) How can it be s face of Viennese, when (here is a clue) it is only about 100m high?????
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its a little action figure glued onto a boulder right!!!
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What I like about the British mags, is you can figure out lots of tricks for gear protected face climbs with double ropes, just by looking at the pictures. its funny to see someone actually leading with a rope clipped to a nest of 4 or 5 equalized RPs or to a taped down hook or whatever cause shots of trad climbing in American mags are almost always a splitter crack with cams every body length, or someone freeing an aid climb, or a runout bolted slab.
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I will putem up on Bivouac as photo essays in a few days if no one gets them
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politics is but that said, have you noticed how the euro (and CDN $$ too but not much) is climbing against the dollar, american unemployment and debt are skyrocketing, gold is rising etc. and no one has caught osama or mullah omar yet? and what about north korea? are they still on the axis of evil or did they get sent down to the minors cause they have nukes but no oil.
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I dont subscribe to any, I buy them at MEC, cause MEC gets them weeks before Canadian subscribers do. If I was only gonna get one, I dunno. You have to read them all for a balanced view of whats going on. Like if you only read On TheEdge you might believe that Musashi is a pure rock route, and not know about the 8' ice roof and WI5 to finish it off, cause Stevie Haston is scared of it and so pretends its not really a mixed climb (hence unworthy of his atention) but a rock climb done with tools. Fact is it would kick his ass!
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If i climbed something they might know about, I'll tell em, like "I climbed Slesse last weekend". Then the guy I work with will ask me if I saw any mountain goats because that's his area of specialization. On the other hand if I wentr somewhere out of their nowlefdge range and I get asked what I did - "Oh, went to Squamish - How about you?" then I get to hear about how the 5 year old fell off the bike or how much beer was drunk at hockey with the guys Friday night. The real problem is when people always want to see pictures. are they just asking to be polite? i keep a few nice shots of peaks etc for them to gape at and go away.
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Matt Perkins, let me know if its too tough and you need a hint!!! The first one is North of Pemberton, and the second one is north of Chilliwack
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I read somewhere, that low rest pulse is at least partly genetic. No doubt influenced by sedentaryness and other factors. If I had a watch I could check it right now. One thing I have always noticed, is that I have "cold hands": in fact the girls would always comment on it, when we had square dancing lessons in junior high maybe that is a result of low heart rate too? I dont think i get the screaming barfies any more or less than other ice climbers though.
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Hey Bronco, wow, 190!!!! No wonder it sounds like Drum N Bass.
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I guess i should have said 35 to 40, it was 35 one time, 38 another time, and 40 when i took it myself in a first aid class. the other question, is how fast should your heart rate return to rest pulse after exercise? I see Twight in Xtreme Alpinism, complains that 3 days after a hard climb his pulse was up, and he should have hydrated more or something. i always thought it was good to keep pulse elevated, as it kept your metabolism cranking. maybe not if you wanna build back fat reserves, though.