Dru

I dont subscribe to any, I buy them at MEC, cause MEC gets them weeks before Canadian subscribers do. If I was only gonna get one, I dunno. You have to read them all for a balanced view of whats going on. Like if you only read On TheEdge you might believe that Musashi is a pure rock route, and not know about the 8' ice roof and WI5 to finish it off, cause Stevie Haston is scared of it and so pretends its not really a mixed climb (hence unworthy of his atention) but a rock climb done with tools. Fact is it would kick his ass!

If i climbed something they might know about, I'll tell em, like "I climbed Slesse last weekend". Then the guy I work with will ask me if I saw any mountain goats because that's his area of specialization. On the other hand if I wentr somewhere out of their nowlefdge range and I get asked what I did - "Oh, went to Squamish - How about you?" then I get to hear about how the 5 year old fell off the bike or how much beer was drunk at hockey with the guys Friday night. The real problem is when people always want to see pictures. are they just asking to be polite? i keep a few nice shots of peaks etc for them to gape at and go away.

Matt Perkins, let me know if its too tough and you need a hint!!! The first one is North of Pemberton, and the second one is north of Chilliwack

I read somewhere, that low rest pulse is at least partly genetic. No doubt influenced by sedentaryness and other factors. If I had a watch I could check it right now. One thing I have always noticed, is that I have "cold hands": in fact the girls would always comment on it, when we had square dancing lessons in junior high maybe that is a result of low heart rate too? I dont think i get the screaming barfies any more or less than other ice climbers though.

Hey Bronco, wow, 190!!!! No wonder it sounds like Drum N Bass.

I guess i should have said 35 to 40, it was 35 one time, 38 another time, and 40 when i took it myself in a first aid class. the other question, is how fast should your heart rate return to rest pulse after exercise? I see Twight in Xtreme Alpinism, complains that 3 days after a hard climb his pulse was up, and he should have hydrated more or something. i always thought it was good to keep pulse elevated, as it kept your metabolism cranking. maybe not if you wanna build back fat reserves, though.

jon i dunno the max cause i dont have the heart rate monitor to set of the alarm when it is time for more Gu. I do know that when i get out there and climb up someything like Cheam it is pounding loud enough, that i can hear it when i stop moving, and it sounds like a house beat so that must be in the 100's of BPM?

I agree, Outside sucks bag. Talk about spray and hype. There are what, like 50 pages of SUV ads and Polo Sport, before the first article? i guess it looks good in your Chevy avalanche, as you pretend you are interested in the outdoors. Funny that you would think I might like it when ive just finished a post in the literature thread slamming the "Outside Mag school of journalism" Outside =

low body fat, get cold. high body fat, stay warm.

Ya I wondered about it too, but the updated edition seems to put that to rest with the new authors footnote about his support of charities in Poland since the fall of the Iron Curtain.... As for thre reason i dont like Krakauer, its because of his Outside Mag school of journalism writing style. You know, write everything targeted to the bumbly mountaineer armchair sitter guy, hype and spray about everything you like, slag whatever you personally dont like, sprinkle the text with lots of "Me and I" cause whatever you are writing about, is really about you. Other writeers I do not like include tim Cahill (same mould), and Andrew Todhunter , author of an execrable character assassination and self indulgent wank masquerading as a bio of Dan Osman That said I used to think Krakauer went a little over the top in his description of soloing Devils Thumb, I found out he did do a new route (usded to think he just did Beckey route but called it a FA), i still think he totally ignores mentioning Culbert Starr & Douglas and says Beckey did their route... What writers DO i like? WH Murray from the 30s. Barry Blanchard even if he does shamelessly reference Bukowski in his style. Mark Twight, Kiss or Kill is awesome book. greg Child used to be good but is slipping a bit with publication of the Beth & Tommy saga. I liked John Bouchards piece on the Kyrghizstan thing. Mark wilford is cool. I wish he'd write a book. ed abbey wasnt much of a climber, but he wrote good outdoors books anyways, even if i dont agree with every fact he wrote, i agree with the spirit in which he wrote them. joe simpson is hit n miss. Paul Pritchard is 100% good all the time.

CLIMBING and ROCK AND ICE have both gone downhill since the ownership switxch. I think Climbing is doing a bit better, though. The articles atre at least somewhat interesting. R&I has too much boring topos for routes i have either done or will never do, and way too many pages of Tech Tips that are ho hum ("How to Use a GriGri") zzzzz. R&I is at least 50% recycled these days. Climbing has some good articles but has slimmed down too much. It needs to get back to being a thick rag full of features like it was in the Mike Kennedy days. Youve got to wonder though, how they can slag of other chipped areas but say Rifle is one of the best? Its a drill fest too. Alpinist could be good but needs to find its focus and also recycle less stuff like all those Kennan Harvey and Stevie Haston pictures I have already seen 3x over. Also, HOW DARE THEY print Tami Knight text (without Tami spelling) and have some generic, unfunny guy like Jeremy Collins illustrate! Hell thats like having Walt Disney illustrate a text by Picasso. GRIPPED mag has come on a bit, its no longer a rag I wouldnt wipe my bum with. the last few issues have been ok. it still has the most sycophantic gear reviews on the planet, and suffers cause it wont pay for good articles if it can run some vanity press piece instead. CLIMBER, HIGH MTN SPORTS and ON THE EDGE are all British. Climber has come on and lately has been the best of the 3 (its the only one of the 6 listed you cant get at MEC. I buy mine at Chapters). OTE is too Sheffield oriented, but has fun Duncan Bourne cartoons. HMS has Mountain Info which is like the best opart of Alpinist (the new routes section) as a monthly. All three suffer from having "my summer holiday" articles which is a crag feature where a correspondant goes to a foreign place, comes back and says "This crag is good.We did this route. This other route is hard." I mean its like having someone read a guidebook to you at a slide show. ZZZZZ aside from that though... you need to know what Abseiling and Krabs are and how to translate E3 5c to 11a R. ROCK is an Australian magazine. It is the most insular, head-up-the-bum magazine i have ever read. Features pictures of people with helmets and every new route the editor has ever put up (grungy 5.8 10m high piles etc.) & so on. Good photos (Simon Carter) but only read it if you are planning on visiting OZ, or you are already there.

Dang ya got me Greg. Is that City of Rocks???

ive never climbed the nose but it sure is famous and all. here is another one for you

Dwayner, please keep the Spray out of Body Results I bet when you see the attached picture, it will make your heart beat faster!

Pigeon Spire E face, I think Matt.

Mines about 35. Now I know! Thanks B rock!!

Izzat the Nose?

I read in an Ian Parnell interview that having a low rest pulse is supposedly a good thing for endurance oriented mountaineers. I myself have a low rest pulse, so low that usually when I go to give blood they look at me real strange like I should be dead or something. Can anybody explain if and why, low rest pulse is supposedly good?

Ron Kauk did that in one of those Masters of Stone videos. Yep, in the original MOS. And it was Yosemite, not Smith. Come on, Dru, pull your head out! No, it was a home video he shot that he (Piana) showed at one of his slideshows. Maybe he was rippin off Kauk or trying to reclaim cowboy heritage from a California dude. "Live your life like a thrown knife" - this was just after they did the route on Proboscis with Galen Rowell. Speaking of which I hear Iker Pou and his brother Enaki onsighted that route in 2001 summer!!!!!

I bet youi slide better on a black garnbage bag, and the bag makes a better bivi sack or pack liner too.

www.gravsports.com www.live-the-vision.com

80 lbs. of snafflehound tied in a ladies' nylon and stuffed down the victims trousers

Is that UIAA approved and CE certified???

Wasn't that Siberian Prison camp run by Sexual Chocolate's great uncle, or somethin'? I dont know about that, but when they cross into Mongolia they find a local chieftan has a watch made by one Pavel Bure - probably the great grandfather of current Russian hockey star Pavel Bure whose Bio says he comes from a lineage of watchmakers. How's that for a weird coincidence.

Despite getting some major facts screwed up and painting the hero of that debacle as a self-serving prick. Sure it was a great story. "Opinion based on what he observed"? He was passed out in his tent on the South Col when the shit went down. Even after Anatoly Boukreev told him his facts were incorrect and provided photographic proof, Krakauer published his story as is, and continued to berate the guy in public and at AAJ meetings. He's a prick that tried to bring others down because he felt guilty that he didn't/couldn't do shit when it really counted. That is a mixture of fact and opinion, flame away. Greg I couldnt have said it better myself. Selling death epic to armchair mountaineers and who cares what lies you tell to exculpate yourself along the way.