Dru

i went to boulder along some of that columbia basalt once, a few miles W of the dalles while driving back from smiff. there was a stinky hobo jungle at the bottom and i almost pitched onto some wino sleeping in a pile of broken glass.

You're right, because that is one of the tenets of Christianity: to spread the Gospel. I don't necessarily think that's a bad thing (unless, taken to the extreme "believe my way or die" as in the Inquisitions). i was reading one of ther responses to dr. laura online somewhere, and it notes that a section of the bible saying that homosexuality is an abomination, also says that eating shellfish is an abomination, and wearing clothing made of mixed fabrics is an abomination. any bible scholars out there confirm or deny this??? like to see some xtians head for ivars and preach to the sinners there abominating themselves with the clam chowder.

JAMKING IS A TECHNIQUE FOR PEOPLE WITH TECNIQUE...LAYBACK IS FOR THOSE WITH NO TECHNIQUE EG: SPORT CLIMBERS OR THOSE WITH SMALL HANDS AND BIG FOREARMS

did Reinhold Messner say that to you, too!!!?

not like the dude is dying of it... they are gonna core out his prostate. something like 40%of men can look forwards to this operation at some point in their future so take yer anti oxidants.

LAYBACK THAT MF'ER: TECHNIQUE OF NO TECHNIQUE

what goes around comes around. preach hate, dont be surprised if people hate you.

i took mclungs avvy course... GEOG 408. 4 days in the field plus 3 months in the classroom.

home made cut off chunk of angle iron/shelf bracket, with a point on one end.

3) solid shafted friends rock. i got a couple old ones and they are indestructible. people have used em for like 20 years ( i got a few second hand) and still going good. BUT i would not use them as a first choice. they are best for when you need multiples of a size, as the X2, X3, x4 etc. multiple pieces.

15) I had done a bunch of scrambling-verging-into-oops this is scary and im soloing- terrain but my first day of roped climbing was in Sept. 1990 at Burgers and Fries cliff at Squamish. I top roped Wisecrack and Burgers & Fries and possibly Move It On Over too. In hiking boots. I flailed A LOT. Did not climb again until the next spring when i started going every weekend and soon got my own harness and biner. switched from hip belay to fancy figure 8. i remember first trying to TR Neat & Ciool wearing a pair of rock shoes too big for me over 2 pairs of wool socks, with no chalk. failed completely. came back the next day with my own brand new rock shoes, and a chalk bag, and sent . best feeling ever. i was hooked.

i read a story about the FA of one of the ridges on Mt. Logan where someone took a 600' sliding fall on yellow polyproylene rope attached to a fluke, and the thing dived into the snow on the ridge and held, eventually burying itself like 15m down....

pictures the line as seen the day before Fred racks up at the base Fred emerges from a rock band low down (the rock is hard to see cause it drops away to more snow underneath him) Fred thru the rock and approaching the belay tree on the first crux pitch

we could.... 1) spray about unclimbed lines (blah blah east face of Twin Spires blah blah North face of Steinbok) 2) chestbeat about what we're gonna climb on the weekend, except now its gonna rain/snow and I'm still not gonna have climbed Canadian Border 3) talk about Gear. Do you use solid shafted Friends yes or no. What's better, chalk bag on a belt, or chalk bag clipped to harness with a biner. 4) talk about ethics. leashless bolt chopping, is it OK if you helicopter in. 5) make up gossip about Fred Beckey/Brian Burdo etc. 6) play Name that Peak zzzzzz 7) discuss which hand to use for which hold and rating of a 3 move butt scraping boulder traverse 8) everyone make an avatar and post a fake trip report. 9) Guides are Alpine Pimps. discuss. 10) what is a better 5.8 handcrack: Lion's Jaw, Givler's Crack, or Octopus' Garden In the Shade 11) lie about your climbing aility and resume 12) quickdrawws - should the gates face the same direction on bottom and top biners, opposite directions, or should you use a mix of aligned and unaligned. personally i use the latter. 13) discuss whether it would be possible to traverse all 3 index peaks in a day, and if doing so puts you on the list of strongest climbers in washington. construct a list of 10 best climbers in washington and justify your choice ad nauseum. 14) what are the 5 best routes you have ever done in your whole life. no spraying please. 15) what was the first route you climbed?

I knew a guy at UBC physics who hooked up a capacitator inside his top tube so that when someone put a seat on his bike without first disconnecting a secret wire, it would discharge and cause some minor electrocution... I think what ended up happening was some drunk guy was pissing on the bike when it was parked outside a pub and that set off the capacitor...

Fernando Valenzuela? Do you think giant squid eat penguins and seals? If they showed the Seventh Seal in Antarctica, would the penguins think it was a porn film??

Rumor has it that some bolts were chopped at Vantage and Leavenworth

why don't you mention how many Hit Dice it has too?

Flukes are for super soft snow like in alaska or the top of emperor ridge on robson. the chance you will actually need a fluke in the Cascades is minimal. 36 inch pickets are the equivalent of 22cm screw, you end up tying them off mostly, they are heavier, and more irritating. just my opinion but i hardly ever place pickets anyways....ignore everything i say... you can always rap off a bollard.....

Dude, its the penguins in antarctica. they're taking time off from seal blowing.

only americans like ray are allowed to defecate on enemy corpses.... the dirt is sniper was blamed by inter-squad politics for work of some american lacking toilet paper.

haha, he was my prof last term, nice guy but also a weirdo, terrible teacher, we talked about climbing a few times but never mentioned any FA's what was it? "peruvian headwall" finish to Price glacier on Shuksan, up the snow flutings on the left.

for most infrequently travelled alpine climbs, or ones on rock other than granite, i find pins and tricams is a better rack to take than nuts and small cams. plus i like slammin in a few every climb just to offend the clean climbing purists.

alpine rock season better not start till after this weekend damnit! i think condish. on the n faces in cheam range that never see the sun, are pretty good right now. i can see the stuff firming up on n face cheam daily. but also growing cornices....

funny that ovals are the weakest biner and everyone is recommending using them for a carabiner "break" you dont need multi biners to rappel if you have 2 angle pins you can make em into a brake bar, caver style rappel device with a locking biner, good enough to get you down. in summary: ovals Heavy, weak, still better for some purposes some of the time, retro fashion statement. go well with an elbow-deep chalkbag and some EB's worn with stripy tube socks so that you look like a smoot photo.